ohhgyeahfasho

iTrader: (14)

The boost curves in ECU Controlled Boost can be set to whatever you 'desire' it to be, though with the limitation of your WGA's capabilities. You can also try to hold as much boost as your WGA will allow you. Being able to control the boost curve is the main thing that sets the MBC and ECU Controlled Boost apart.

For an MBC, you are only setting the boost spike(peak boost), then it will taper down. For an ECU Controlled Boost, you can set the peak boost, hold that peak boost for as long as your WGA will allow you. Sorry if this explanation kind of sucks, I just woke up.

Edit: Just to be clear, the ECU Controlled Boost can hold as much boost as the mechanical limitation will allow (ie. WGA, and turbo). If set up correctly it can prevent over-boosting and limit/decrease boost creep, something MBC's are not capable of.

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

thats what i was looking for thanks. ill be switching to a grimspeed soon.

lude2evo

iTrader: (9)

yeah im pretty sure it was a failure. i actually bought the unit from another shop and told them of my misfortune and they took it back and gave my store credit which went to my brake pads

DBallz

iTrader: (7)

Looking at your sig your engine setup is perfect for holding big boost with the right turbo and WGA. Myself for example I'm holding 28psi from 3900-8k. The main reason why I bought it was to use the Tephra V7 and meth. The Aquamist HFS-3 & 6 both have a 5v output that will trigger the map switch. If the meth kit failsafe is triggered if will shut off and switch back to my low map hence cutting boost and saving my motor

Cy

iTrader: (3)

FWIW, I have a Grimmspeed 3 port and tuned by CBRD, it works great!

Sucks that yours didn't work for you but for me (so far) it seems to be a quality product.

aka.ralliart15

iTrader: (20)

ohhgyeahfasho thanks for the help man, I really needed to see a picture like that. I know my settings are not right, those are settings for the Hallman MBC. Unfortunately I cant play around with the Grimspeed till next weekend. I'll keep you guys updated.

aka.ralliart15

iTrader: (20)

Ok I forgot to tell you guys, I hooked up only 2 of the ports, 1 to the turbo and the other to the wastegate. I left the other one covered because I don't have a vacuum port on the intake, could this be my issue too???

ohhgyeahfasho

iTrader: (14)

What do you mean by covered? The 3rd port is usually just for recirculating the air back into the intake although it can be vented to air if you don't have a port. I would advise you to remove anything that is covering the 3rd port.

We all have pointed out that the problem was in tune itself, the way you were controlling your boost was incorrect. I have already stated the facts, cause of the problem, and a way to fix it. I have also provided you with a good starting values on the boost tables. Just plug in the values and do pulls, you should see more consistent results. You then can easily adjust your boost to your desired curve.

If you still need help, feel free to PM me. I can also provide you with a base ROM for boost control, all you have to do is fill in your fuel map, timing map, injector scaling/latency, and immobilizer code.

aka.ralliart15

iTrader: (20)

Alright thanks again man, I just had the port with no line in it. Right now im spiking 28 dropping to 25, hopefully I can hold a little more boost with this thing.

DBallz

iTrader: (7)

Well all you have to do is start tweeking the WGDC. I'm 28.7-27.4 at redline.

aka.ralliart15

iTrader: (20)

wow that would really be nice, im guessing it feels much better up top. How does that affect your shift points?? im guessing now you shift later since your holding the power much better till the end

DBallz

iTrader: (7)

I was never shabby before but for some reason my old boost controller would be very random how it would work. Most recently was when I was in Florida in December with the evo. If I would turn the boost up to what should get me 28psi it would spike then fall flat so when I came home I made a effort to make sure I changed the solenoid and tune it.

As for shifting it feels like a beast up top I would be tempted to add some timing back but I need to get some dyno time and wideband before going that far.

aka.ralliart15

iTrader: (20)

Started to tune it, the car feels ok, just a little low on the TQ now, I guess I have to make the boost hit harder, I'll play a little more with the settings. Thanks everybody, oh btw is there anyway to make that crack crack crack noise go away? Thanks for the input.

aka.ralliart15

iTrader: (20)

I'll post up a VDR a little later but the car is really down on power, I'll try to play with the WGDC a bit more and let you guys know.

aka.ralliart15

iTrader: (20)

Happy Easter, I got a chance to put up some VDR numbers here's the sheet, as you can see I lost about 20whp and 20wtq across the powerband

Comparison - MBC
Base - 3 port BCS