Wideband AFR dropping, hesitation, brick wall feeling
#17
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I'm currently running a crushed stock IX BOV. This "could" possibly be the cause of my hesitation issues, but when I richened those load cells, it had a noticeable impact.
What "drivability issues" are you talking about?
I am in the process of switching to an aftermarket BOV, but can't make up my mind on which one.
-Acree
What "drivability issues" are you talking about?
I am in the process of switching to an aftermarket BOV, but can't make up my mind on which one.
-Acree
#19
the crushed ix and x bpvs surge a little more, and you limit the opening ability. Really, the stock bpv design works well, if you drill a hole to the reference port like the gus mod, and hook a mbc to that and route it back to the intake, so when the reference port sees a certain psi it bleeds pressure casuing no premature opening. otoh you can adjust this bleeding pressure by hand very fast. less pressure means more close action and a higher risk of flutter/surge. turning the knob up would gain you more stock like bpv characteristics. Im doing this now, as I have already installed a set screw with a 1/16th hole in it, and I dont think its enough. It limits flow, but not pressure. limiting pressure is necessary.
#20
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do you have lean spool disabled? Your load numbers seem high for 20-30% throttle(compared to my 8), but is this happening during tip in or no? I experienced very similar issues when I started to tune with lean spool disabled. I would get between 2500 and 4k and the car would start to load up on fuel and feel like it was running into a brick wall. It would make a loud pop(sounded like it was blowing an IC coupler) then would clear up and drive fine.
#21
I have been getting these cel's periodically:
Injector circuit
EGR solenoid
barometric pressure sensor
ignition coil
vehcle speed sensor
ingnition circuit.
I have installed a 4 bar map sensor and disabled the EGR process per the thread, i dont know whats causing these issues. Always the same exact codes
Injector circuit
EGR solenoid
barometric pressure sensor
ignition coil
vehcle speed sensor
ingnition circuit.
I have installed a 4 bar map sensor and disabled the EGR process per the thread, i dont know whats causing these issues. Always the same exact codes
#25
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Any update on this? Mine is starting to do this exact same thing after I put the motor/trans/tc back in and changed my hks cams to GSC s2's....It seems like it's an ignition/spark issue but also seems like it's a lean condition too
#28
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Well here's my theory and I'm sticking to it....First when I bought my car it was Fiiinee, then over time it started to misfire under a HEAVY load, and it would only do it sometimes, and it had to be in boost over at least 15psi for it to do it and it was like running into a Brick Wall
For other reasons I tore the engine apart, while it was apart I changed the head gasket, timing belt/tensioner and all new gaskets and seals, GSC S2 cams, JAM lifters, etc....
Ever since all that its been doing this crap everyone else has, although I really need to be retuned for these cams and I fixed a vacuum leak. When I took mine apart I found one cylinder very wet with oil, so wet the cylinder had a brown tint to the walls from the oil and oil was puddled up in the intake port, and whenever I took out the plugs and looked on the piston there was some oil on top of em (after idling for 5 mins anyway). Fast forward to today, I pulled the plugs and now ALL the piston tops have some oil on top (vs only 2 cyls had it) (no its not the valve seals) andd this hit-brickwall-feeling is way worse I'm thinking it's cuz more oil is getting in and blowing out the spark....I just bought some new BPR8ES's and going to put them in and try smaller gaps to see if that helps if the new plugs dont help. And if not then going to disable my PCV system temporarily and see if that helps since that is how the oil is getting in. I verified this when I had the intake off, the runners were wet only where the pcv inlet was. I realllyyy think this is the issue or at least related. I do have a Krank vent and Saikou catch cans to stop this oil issue but dont have the time to mount them right now so going to try this fix to see if this does anything.
Here's some pics to show what I'm talking about.....If anyone is bored pull there plugs and tell me if you have the same thing!...and when mine cuts out my wideband goes rich, for who dont know the o2 sensor does NOT read anything with fuel, it only reads Oxygen (hence the name o2 sensor) and if the spark really IS blowing out then there wont be any combustion so there will be a gob of unburned oxygen going through the exhaust...making the rich condition on my wideband.....I'm prob way off but idk what else to think
For other reasons I tore the engine apart, while it was apart I changed the head gasket, timing belt/tensioner and all new gaskets and seals, GSC S2 cams, JAM lifters, etc....
Ever since all that its been doing this crap everyone else has, although I really need to be retuned for these cams and I fixed a vacuum leak. When I took mine apart I found one cylinder very wet with oil, so wet the cylinder had a brown tint to the walls from the oil and oil was puddled up in the intake port, and whenever I took out the plugs and looked on the piston there was some oil on top of em (after idling for 5 mins anyway). Fast forward to today, I pulled the plugs and now ALL the piston tops have some oil on top (vs only 2 cyls had it) (no its not the valve seals) andd this hit-brickwall-feeling is way worse I'm thinking it's cuz more oil is getting in and blowing out the spark....I just bought some new BPR8ES's and going to put them in and try smaller gaps to see if that helps if the new plugs dont help. And if not then going to disable my PCV system temporarily and see if that helps since that is how the oil is getting in. I verified this when I had the intake off, the runners were wet only where the pcv inlet was. I realllyyy think this is the issue or at least related. I do have a Krank vent and Saikou catch cans to stop this oil issue but dont have the time to mount them right now so going to try this fix to see if this does anything.
Here's some pics to show what I'm talking about.....If anyone is bored pull there plugs and tell me if you have the same thing!...and when mine cuts out my wideband goes rich, for who dont know the o2 sensor does NOT read anything with fuel, it only reads Oxygen (hence the name o2 sensor) and if the spark really IS blowing out then there wont be any combustion so there will be a gob of unburned oxygen going through the exhaust...making the rich condition on my wideband.....I'm prob way off but idk what else to think
#29
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Ok well I fixed one problem, found out my knock sensor wasnt connected, so far the problem is gone but need to drive it more to verify that it was the problem I was having. Either way once I hooked it back up it gained TONS of more power, the default setting for the KS must be very conservative to prevent someone doing damage if the sensor goes bad or something. and found the plugs the coils go to were black, and the ones the wires go to were white, will take pics later. Either way pulling your plugs should be done to look for anymore clues
#30
plugs look good. my setup doesnt have problems any where but light throttle application. I have replaced plugs and gapped them at ~.020 which from what I understand is a tight gap. I think my injectors need to be scalled better. Can anyone tell me what HZ hks cams should be idling at what RPM?
4% low ltft -9% high ltft
4% low ltft -9% high ltft
Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Apr 23, 2011 at 05:01 PM.