HELP! Fuel cut on SD and melting IACV.
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HELP! Fuel cut on SD and melting IACV.
I converted to SD using the Omni 4 bar map sensor about a year ago, and when i went to high boost, 36psi, the engine would just shut down randomly during a full boost pull or as it is spooling up. its doesn't even have to be on WOT.
It seems like the fuel would completely cut, sometimes for half a second, other times for 2-3 seconds before i would get power.
unfortunately, i dont have any logs because this issue happens to randomly, that i haven't been able to get it to happen during a log. Now, the problem has gotten SO bad that it keeps popping hoses and couplers, and melted 5 idle control valves in 2 months. mind you, i only drive the car on the weekends.
I think it melts the idle control valve because i have meth injection, and the throttle is open when the fuel cut hits.
What are some thoughts that it could be a bad map sensor?
It seems like the fuel would completely cut, sometimes for half a second, other times for 2-3 seconds before i would get power.
unfortunately, i dont have any logs because this issue happens to randomly, that i haven't been able to get it to happen during a log. Now, the problem has gotten SO bad that it keeps popping hoses and couplers, and melted 5 idle control valves in 2 months. mind you, i only drive the car on the weekends.
I think it melts the idle control valve because i have meth injection, and the throttle is open when the fuel cut hits.
What are some thoughts that it could be a bad map sensor?
#4
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When I saw the thread title, I thought it was due to meth injection.
My opinion, which could be wrong, is that the combination of fueling between your gas and meth may be a bit off (in some respect...too much, not enough, not enough atomization, etc) for the higher boost levels, possible causing misfire and then possible backfire, etc.
But, with meth injection, it could be a number of things, as the meth brings in a whole secondary fueling system, in a rather crude way.
Of course, I'm not really a fan of meth injection at all as it is just prone to too many issues similar to this. But, if you're sticking with it, try slowly raising the boost and see at least if you can pinpoint an area where the problem occurs. If it's happening so much now, then you should be able to get some logs of it. Maybe it is simply a bad map sensor. That boost range should be well within the operating limit for that 4 bar sensor.
My opinion, which could be wrong, is that the combination of fueling between your gas and meth may be a bit off (in some respect...too much, not enough, not enough atomization, etc) for the higher boost levels, possible causing misfire and then possible backfire, etc.
But, with meth injection, it could be a number of things, as the meth brings in a whole secondary fueling system, in a rather crude way.
Of course, I'm not really a fan of meth injection at all as it is just prone to too many issues similar to this. But, if you're sticking with it, try slowly raising the boost and see at least if you can pinpoint an area where the problem occurs. If it's happening so much now, then you should be able to get some logs of it. Maybe it is simply a bad map sensor. That boost range should be well within the operating limit for that 4 bar sensor.
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When I saw the thread title, I thought it was due to meth injection.
My opinion, which could be wrong, is that the combination of fueling between your gas and meth may be a bit off (in some respect...too much, not enough, not enough atomization, etc) for the higher boost levels, possible causing misfire and then possible backfire, etc.
But, with meth injection, it could be a number of things, as the meth brings in a whole secondary fueling system, in a rather crude way.
Of course, I'm not really a fan of meth injection at all as it is just prone to too many issues similar to this. But, if you're sticking with it, try slowly raising the boost and see at least if you can pinpoint an area where the problem occurs. If it's happening so much now, then you should be able to get some logs of it. Maybe it is simply a bad map sensor. That boost range should be well within the operating limit for that 4 bar sensor.
My opinion, which could be wrong, is that the combination of fueling between your gas and meth may be a bit off (in some respect...too much, not enough, not enough atomization, etc) for the higher boost levels, possible causing misfire and then possible backfire, etc.
But, with meth injection, it could be a number of things, as the meth brings in a whole secondary fueling system, in a rather crude way.
Of course, I'm not really a fan of meth injection at all as it is just prone to too many issues similar to this. But, if you're sticking with it, try slowly raising the boost and see at least if you can pinpoint an area where the problem occurs. If it's happening so much now, then you should be able to get some logs of it. Maybe it is simply a bad map sensor. That boost range should be well within the operating limit for that 4 bar sensor.
the thing is, it has happened a few times while i was building boost, and the engine bucked's hard at around 10psi. it almost feels like NLS activating, but i have had it disabled.
has there been anyone that has reported a bad omni map sensor? I am also going to change out the tps sensor.
#6
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Sounds about right, I've gone through about 4 ISCV's on the meth.
The first thing I would do is pressure & flow test the system to make sure everything is working properly.
This was my solution..
Cold starts are a bit rough, however, I'm real close to having a rock solid cold idle
The first thing I would do is pressure & flow test the system to make sure everything is working properly.
This was my solution..
Cold starts are a bit rough, however, I'm real close to having a rock solid cold idle
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Sounds about right, I've gone through about 4 ISCV's on the meth.
The first thing I would do is pressure & flow test the system to make sure everything is working properly.
This was my solution..
Cold starts are a bit rough, however, I'm real close to having a rock solid cold idle
The first thing I would do is pressure & flow test the system to make sure everything is working properly.
This was my solution..
Cold starts are a bit rough, however, I'm real close to having a rock solid cold idle
I have a 250psi sensor with a gauge, right before the nozzle so i notice right away if something happens to the pump.
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#10
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Yeah, stock ECU, I opened the BISS then drilled & tapped a set screw to crack the throttle plate. I'm still messing around with a few tables to get things abit more stable when dead cold, after the engine is warmed up it idles just fine.
I would only recommend this as a last resort if you daily drive the car.
I would only recommend this as a last resort if you daily drive the car.
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