Tuning Method questions
Jun 27, 2011, 10:22 AM
#1
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Tuning Method questions
I've been gradually learning to tune my evo over the past few years and I'm pretty comfortable with most things, mind you I have minimal mods so my tuning is mostly Boost, Timing, and AFR.
I've read alot of threads on tuning most notably the "How to tune an Evo" stickied thread, but I have a question on some tuning recommendations I've read along my journey.
Can someone explain the tuning method where you set boost low (10 psi), tune AFR/Timing, then set boost again (15p psi), tune AFR/Timing, then again (20 psi), tune AFR/Timing and so on...?
Say you are running 20 psi and your spool up AFR is 12.5, 12.0, to 11.5 at peak torque then flat out to redline and 10 psi hits (a) load at 12.5 AFR then 15 psi hits (b) load at 12.0 AFR and finally 20 psi hits (c) load at 11.5 psi...
If you started tuning at low boost (10 psi) would you tune the AFR in this respective load column to 12.5 AFR through redline? And so on for each boost increment followed by smoothing between these adjustments?
I've read alot of threads on tuning most notably the "How to tune an Evo" stickied thread, but I have a question on some tuning recommendations I've read along my journey.
Can someone explain the tuning method where you set boost low (10 psi), tune AFR/Timing, then set boost again (15p psi), tune AFR/Timing, then again (20 psi), tune AFR/Timing and so on...?
Say you are running 20 psi and your spool up AFR is 12.5, 12.0, to 11.5 at peak torque then flat out to redline and 10 psi hits (a) load at 12.5 AFR then 15 psi hits (b) load at 12.0 AFR and finally 20 psi hits (c) load at 11.5 psi...
If you started tuning at low boost (10 psi) would you tune the AFR in this respective load column to 12.5 AFR through redline? And so on for each boost increment followed by smoothing between these adjustments?
Jun 27, 2011, 05:26 PM
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I've just seen people on this forum recommend the method of discussion in this thread and I'm curious about the details.
Can anyone elaborate on the set boost low, tune, set boost higher, tune, set boost to desired level, tune, method?
Jun 28, 2011, 05:45 AM
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Set boost low (10 psi) tune AFR for 12.5ish through load/rpm range, then set boost mid (15 psi) tune AFR 12.0ish through load/rpm range, and then finally set boost to desired (20 psi) tune AFR 11.7-11.5 peak and then down through load/rpm range?
Jun 28, 2011, 12:18 PM
#7
Set the AFR the same as a WOT pull like 12.5 - 12.0 - 11.5 for all boost levels. Not a certain AFR for that level of boost.
I'm not really sure what you're trying to do by tuning from 10 to 15 to 20 psi.
The way I tuned was by flooring it from various RPM levels instead of by boost levels so I could hit more cells and have the correct AFR.
I'm not really sure what you're trying to do by tuning from 10 to 15 to 20 psi.
The way I tuned was by flooring it from various RPM levels instead of by boost levels so I could hit more cells and have the correct AFR.
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Jun 28, 2011, 12:24 PM
#8
I would tune as usual for eqch boost level. Correct me if I am wrong, you want to Target afr as you normally would. I would not run a 12.5 afr to redline at any boost level on pump gas. Keep it safe. Same thing with timing. I would make small changes on those areas if any. There is not need to try and put peak torque timing as low with the low load areas as you would at higher load levels when running low boost/load.
So basically if you don't have a way to monitor egt. I would take it slow and conservative on afr in lower boost levels/load. Make sure there are no super rich/lean spots, work on smoothness. Increasing the timing slightly can improve gas mileage in those low load/rpm areas.
So basically if you don't have a way to monitor egt. I would take it slow and conservative on afr in lower boost levels/load. Make sure there are no super rich/lean spots, work on smoothness. Increasing the timing slightly can improve gas mileage in those low load/rpm areas.
Jun 28, 2011, 12:38 PM
#9
Set the AFR the same as a WOT pull like 12.5 - 12.0 - 11.5 for all boost levels. Not a certain AFR for that level of boost.
I'm not really sure what you're trying to do by tuning from 10 to 15 to 20 psi.
The way I tuned was by flooring it from various RPM levels instead of by boost levels so I could hit more cells and have the correct AFR.
I'm not really sure what you're trying to do by tuning from 10 to 15 to 20 psi.
The way I tuned was by flooring it from various RPM levels instead of by boost levels so I could hit more cells and have the correct AFR.
The way highlighted would allow you to fill in the transition spots like if you happen to down shift or are going up a steep hill.
Jun 28, 2011, 01:45 PM
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This definitely sounds like a much better way to hit the majority of all the cells. I'll have to try it out.
Like I said before, I normally tune by setting my desired boost (20+psi) and then tune spool 12.5-12.0 til 11.5 at peak and then flat out til redline. Then go back and make a smooth transition across the board. I've just come across posts where people say:
"Oh, remember you should set boost low first, tune, then set boost higher, tune then set boost to final and tune again."
Seems like alot of extra steps to me unless there is truly an important reason to do it this way. Just tryin to understand is all. I know its a bit difficult to understand the thoughts comin outta my head but thanks for tryin. I really appreciate the input everyone!
Jun 29, 2011, 08:44 AM
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Just a few I've come across over the last couple years. Saw it again somewhere last few weeks which got me wondering about it.
Set boost low, adjust fuel, then timing, then boost higher, fuel, then timing.
Finalize fuel...
After reading your post, install your parts then tinker with ign adv. You will pick up tq with your dp to put your setup to almost where its supposed to be. Pk looks good. Pull a degree or 2 out and if it doesnt lose power then I would leave it. But its about right. Numbers are decent for stock dp. Good job.
Btw I was saying you can taper to 12 around redline, there are tons of cars on 93 down here running agressive fueling, but note, it is agressive.
Finalize fuel...
After reading your post, install your parts then tinker with ign adv. You will pick up tq with your dp to put your setup to almost where its supposed to be. Pk looks good. Pull a degree or 2 out and if it doesnt lose power then I would leave it. But its about right. Numbers are decent for stock dp. Good job.
Btw I was saying you can taper to 12 around redline, there are tons of cars on 93 down here running agressive fueling, but note, it is agressive.
Thats how I do it as well. If you want a very thorough map, tune at stock boost so you hit all of the cells for low boost, then increase boost just enough to jump up to the next row of cells. Continue this as far as you want to go. This way, no matter what boost level you set the MBC for, you're tuned for it. This is very helpful in winters where MBC's tend to fluctuate from the cold weather affecting the spring rate. Once you dial in the map from low boost to high boost, it wouldn't hurt to do a few runs at each boost level again to make sure it still does a clean run, regardless of which cells it goes thru. This takes time but its a VERY thorough map setting.
Some people that run alky kits which uses a safety feature to lower boost to the minumum setting will start their tuning there (12psi I think with the stock wastegate). Just because you have the car jump to a lower boost level doesn't mean you need to have the car be a complete DOG when the safety feature kicks in
Some people that run alky kits which uses a safety feature to lower boost to the minumum setting will start their tuning there (12psi I think with the stock wastegate). Just because you have the car jump to a lower boost level doesn't mean you need to have the car be a complete DOG when the safety feature kicks in
I realize there are many different methods out there. I just wanted to understand this one a bit better. I think I got it now. Seems like alot of extra steps though, so I'll probably just stick to what I've been doing all along. Thanks again everyone!
Jun 29, 2011, 12:15 PM
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Ok, that makes more sense. When you get into the load ranges where 20+ psi travels, then you definitely wouldn't want your AFR to be higher than mid 11's. Great, this clears up my confusion. Thanks again.
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