FreeFuel ECU patch - a flex fuel implementation to Evo ECU
#91
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Yes, in time. I'd like to get more feedback about the current version first and I'll probably also do a rewrite of the code before that to clean it up a bit.
Doing ports is much easier when the foundation is in good shape so that there's no need to maintain several versions which could contain bugs that are not yet found.
Doing ports is much easier when the foundation is in good shape so that there's no need to maintain several versions which could contain bugs that are not yet found.
#93
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I'm not really familiar with psi based boost but is it just matter of changing the boost target variable from load to psi and having different scaling in .xml for setup?
#94
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I'm using speed density, psi based boost control etc from Tephramod v7 with this patch and it works great.
FYI I filled up on E85, forced E75 (based on measured ethanol content in tank directly from sensor frequency) and so far the patch is doing everything it's supposed to, which I'm thrilled about! I'm still on the 2D SD maps since I'm having trouble getting the 3D SD to work correctly, but it's good enough for now.
I've been waiting patiently to see if anyone will try building the ADC converter mentioned earlier in this thread so I can actually use the 0-5v input as that's the only part of the patch I haven't verified, but haven't heard any success/failure stories about it so I might just order the parts myself and give it a try as I'm getting anxious!
Beau
#95
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As soon as I get the new sensor I have ordered we will be installing the setup to my friend's JDM 8-gen Galant VR4 (2.5 liter twin-turbo V6)
Yes, I have been working on H8/500 version of the patch and it's ready for testing in the Galant. Unfortunately I don't have proper debug tools for the H8/500 so it's bit of a pain to develop and needs careful testing in the car. If anybody reading this has debugger/simulator, please get in contact. If and when this works, it should be pretty easy to convert that version to Evo 5-6 ECU or DSM H8 ECU.
We will be using an analog converter based on the schematic I posted here for this setup so we'll get some real life experience about it. I think the schematic I posted has small error and I'll check that next weekend by comparing to the unit I built and tested with lab equipment months ago. One of the problems with analog circuit are large component tolerances but if you can measure the frequency with multimeter or something similar then you'll know which voltage represents certain ethanol content and you can scale the interpolation settings to suit.
Yes, I have been working on H8/500 version of the patch and it's ready for testing in the Galant. Unfortunately I don't have proper debug tools for the H8/500 so it's bit of a pain to develop and needs careful testing in the car. If anybody reading this has debugger/simulator, please get in contact. If and when this works, it should be pretty easy to convert that version to Evo 5-6 ECU or DSM H8 ECU.
We will be using an analog converter based on the schematic I posted here for this setup so we'll get some real life experience about it. I think the schematic I posted has small error and I'll check that next weekend by comparing to the unit I built and tested with lab equipment months ago. One of the problems with analog circuit are large component tolerances but if you can measure the frequency with multimeter or something similar then you'll know which voltage represents certain ethanol content and you can scale the interpolation settings to suit.
Last edited by ast; Jan 21, 2013 at 01:59 PM.
#96
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We will be using an analog converter based on the schematic I posted here for this setup so we'll get some real life experience about it. I think the schematic I posted has small error and I'll check that next weekend by comparing to the unit I built and tested with lab equipment months ago. One of the problems with analog circuit are large component tolerances but if you can measure the frequency with multimeter or something similar then you'll know which voltage represents certain ethanol content and you can scale the interpolation settings to suit.
Beau
#97
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Awesome man.
I modified my original schematic and still used the 8-pin 2917 by adding a cap and resistor to bring the sqaure wave below 0v so the 8 pin 2917 would work. I mocked it up on LTSpice and made a quick solderless breadboard version to include the sensor and some fuel. I didn't have a TruRMS DMM and an old O-scope sucks for voltage, but I did have a saturday night special DMM which I think sufficed fine. Everything works! I didn't even see a sawtooth on the O-scope at the sensor output of 50HZ (measuring for volts on the output). LTSpice is *pretty (not exact) accurate.
I used the original 6V VR and pullup for the sensor as stated before and the chip/components are running at 10.8v or so off of a VR (LM317). All powered by the same supply. Maybe now I can play with the rom haha. (sorry for the crudity/this was quick and dirty)
Here's what I got:
Edit: See attachments
Curious to see how the 14pin unit works. EDIT: It works just fine/see later thread
EDIT: 0% was measured with the sensor empty and dry. I also used my jugs of pump 93, 50% ethanol with petrol solution, pump e85, and everclear. The voltage would cycle 0.01+/-on the DMM maybe and when it did it was every few seconds. The voltage was also nice and FLAT on the o-scope. Pretty solid. The circuit took less than a second to notice the change in fuel. If anyone wants my LTSpice file, let me know. Added a pointless +/-5% TOL haha. Parts list is in the pic. Enjoy. REMEMBER the LM317 has it's output voltage on the pin and HOUSING! Don't let it touch other components or the car body/ground/etc.
EDIT: Don't forget to use an OPAMP as annotated in schematics/discussion in later threads as the ECU will pull down voltage due to impedance.
I modified my original schematic and still used the 8-pin 2917 by adding a cap and resistor to bring the sqaure wave below 0v so the 8 pin 2917 would work. I mocked it up on LTSpice and made a quick solderless breadboard version to include the sensor and some fuel. I didn't have a TruRMS DMM and an old O-scope sucks for voltage, but I did have a saturday night special DMM which I think sufficed fine. Everything works! I didn't even see a sawtooth on the O-scope at the sensor output of 50HZ (measuring for volts on the output). LTSpice is *pretty (not exact) accurate.
I used the original 6V VR and pullup for the sensor as stated before and the chip/components are running at 10.8v or so off of a VR (LM317). All powered by the same supply. Maybe now I can play with the rom haha. (sorry for the crudity/this was quick and dirty)
Here's what I got:
Edit: See attachments
Curious to see how the 14pin unit works. EDIT: It works just fine/see later thread
EDIT: 0% was measured with the sensor empty and dry. I also used my jugs of pump 93, 50% ethanol with petrol solution, pump e85, and everclear. The voltage would cycle 0.01+/-on the DMM maybe and when it did it was every few seconds. The voltage was also nice and FLAT on the o-scope. Pretty solid. The circuit took less than a second to notice the change in fuel. If anyone wants my LTSpice file, let me know. Added a pointless +/-5% TOL haha. Parts list is in the pic. Enjoy. REMEMBER the LM317 has it's output voltage on the pin and HOUSING! Don't let it touch other components or the car body/ground/etc.
EDIT: Don't forget to use an OPAMP as annotated in schematics/discussion in later threads as the ECU will pull down voltage due to impedance.
Last edited by evoredy; Jul 24, 2016 at 08:21 PM.
#99
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Well I had some extra time so I made the circuit you posted. I'll test it at work on Monday with our signal generator and a scope to verify it and let you know the results. We have a sensor here too to play with. Let me know what you find, should be easy to make changes to this guy First time making something like this on a breadboard.
Beau
Beau
Beau
#100
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I don't have the time consecutively and I'm taking a break for a second to focus on my (real) work lol. The answer to the conversion is in my post. Just build it and test the patch for any others that just started. I want to add a simple voltage display or 10 led readout on the output too, but I can log for now or at leass when I throw it in the car.
Mock everything up in LTSpice (free) before you smoke the 2917. It has a built in o-scope readout and the software model performs uncannily like my real world model.
#101
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I actually built my vesrion earlier but waited to post and you had already mocked up a setup. You could be tuning right now . The LM2917-8 is cheaper too as I got 14 of them for like 10 bucks.
I don't have the time consecutively and I'm taking a break for a second to focus on my (real) work lol. The answer to the conversion is in my post. Just build it and test the patch for any others that just started. I want to add a simple voltage display or 10 led readout on the output too, but I can log for now or at leass when I throw it in the car.
Mock everything up in LTSpice (free) before you smoke the 2917. It has a built in o-scope readout and the software model performs uncannily like my real world model.
I don't have the time consecutively and I'm taking a break for a second to focus on my (real) work lol. The answer to the conversion is in my post. Just build it and test the patch for any others that just started. I want to add a simple voltage display or 10 led readout on the output too, but I can log for now or at leass when I throw it in the car.
Mock everything up in LTSpice (free) before you smoke the 2917. It has a built in o-scope readout and the software model performs uncannily like my real world model.
Beau
#102
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Any reason you spec'd a 10nF cap instead of a .01uF (should be the same?) for pin 2 drain to ground? Just want to make sure it's not a typo and you didn't mean a different value.
#103
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*also: I used two 220K resistors in series to get the 440K resistance for "R1." If you can find a 440K resistor, by all means. You cannot stray from ANY of the values posted. All this stuff can be had from futurlec.com for stupid cheap/like 10 bucks shipped.
You will also need (not pictured in schematic/may be able to make them out on the other pics):
LM317 (adjustable voltage regulator set to ~11v via 2 resistors-330 and 2.7K/I'll post the full schematic later): Power supply for the rig/connects to car battery. BE CAREFUL AS THE TOP METAL PART WITH THE SCREW HOLE ACTUALLY HAS POSITIVE VOLTAGE AND IS NOT A GROUND LIKE THE NTE962
--we need this so the circuit will get steady voltage throughout idle and cruise when the patch is actually adjusting.
NTE962 or equiv. (+6V voltage regulator for the sensor signal pull-up power/connect to car battery)
--same idea as above/the sensor needs a nice and steady voltage
10K resistor for sensor signal pullup.
*still sub 10 bucks I think haha
I will experiment with a el cheapo (like 7.99 for two of them shipped ebay) 3 digit/3wire LCD voltmeter to get a reference from pin 3 of the LM2917 which will tell us that the circuit is working and the ecu is getting fed x.xx voltage (will have to make a second filter for that just like the one used for the "out"). My simulator says it will work and not affect the signal detrimentally.
On a minor side note, whoever designed the FF sensor with the 50HZ offset had to have been accounting for chip based frequency to voltage converters having major sawtooth issues with anything below 50hz. If that offset wasn't there, this simple circuit would be innaccurate, crappy, and useless at the e0-e30ish levels. Thank you lol.
Last edited by evoredy; Feb 1, 2013 at 03:29 PM.
#104
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not a typo, just hasty lol. They're exactly the same lol.
*also: I used two 220K resistors in series to get the 440K resistance for "R1." If you can find a 440K resistor, by all means. You cannot stray from ANY of the values posted. All this stuff can be had from futurlec.com for stupid cheap/like 10 bucks shipped.
You will also need (not pictured in schematic/may be able to make them out on the other pics):
LM317 (adjustable voltage regulator set to ~11v via 2 resistors-330 and 2.7K/I'll post the full schematic later): Power supply for the rig/connects to car battery. BE CAREFUL AS THE TOP METAL PART WITH THE SCREW HOLE ACTUALLY HAS POSITIVE VOLTAGE AND IS NOT A GROUND LIKE THE NTE962
--we need this so the circuit will get steady voltage throughout idle and cruise when the patch is actually adjusting.
NTE962 or equiv. (+6V voltage regulator for the sensor signal pull-up power/connect to car battery)
--same idea as above/the sensor needs a nice and steady voltage
10K resistor for sensor signal pullup.
*still sub 10 bucks I think haha
I will experiment with a el cheapo (like 7.99 for two of them shipped ebay) 3 digit/3wire LCD voltmeter to get a reference from pin 3 of the LM2917 which will tell us that the circuit is working and the ecu is getting fed x.xx voltage (will have to make a second filter for that just like the one used for the "out"). My simulator says it will work and not affect the signal detrimentally.
On a minor side note, whoever designed the FF sensor with the 50HZ offset had to have been accounting for chip based frequency to voltage converters having major sawtooth issues with anything below 50hz. If that offset wasn't there, this simple circuit would be innaccurate, crappy, and useless at the e0-e30ish levels. Thank you lol.
*also: I used two 220K resistors in series to get the 440K resistance for "R1." If you can find a 440K resistor, by all means. You cannot stray from ANY of the values posted. All this stuff can be had from futurlec.com for stupid cheap/like 10 bucks shipped.
You will also need (not pictured in schematic/may be able to make them out on the other pics):
LM317 (adjustable voltage regulator set to ~11v via 2 resistors-330 and 2.7K/I'll post the full schematic later): Power supply for the rig/connects to car battery. BE CAREFUL AS THE TOP METAL PART WITH THE SCREW HOLE ACTUALLY HAS POSITIVE VOLTAGE AND IS NOT A GROUND LIKE THE NTE962
--we need this so the circuit will get steady voltage throughout idle and cruise when the patch is actually adjusting.
NTE962 or equiv. (+6V voltage regulator for the sensor signal pull-up power/connect to car battery)
--same idea as above/the sensor needs a nice and steady voltage
10K resistor for sensor signal pullup.
*still sub 10 bucks I think haha
I will experiment with a el cheapo (like 7.99 for two of them shipped ebay) 3 digit/3wire LCD voltmeter to get a reference from pin 3 of the LM2917 which will tell us that the circuit is working and the ecu is getting fed x.xx voltage (will have to make a second filter for that just like the one used for the "out"). My simulator says it will work and not affect the signal detrimentally.
On a minor side note, whoever designed the FF sensor with the 50HZ offset had to have been accounting for chip based frequency to voltage converters having major sawtooth issues with anything below 50hz. If that offset wasn't there, this simple circuit would be innaccurate, crappy, and useless at the e0-e30ish levels. Thank you lol.
Beau
#105
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First off I want to say great work guys, Can't wait until this gets ported over for the evo 9. I did a little looking around and found another cheap option. It looks as if Zeitronix is now using the new style sensors. http://www.zeitronix.com/order/order.htm. It is cheaper than the old sensor but still $200, but it looks exactly like this gm sensor http://paceperformance.com/i-1166193...ensor-e85.html for $80.
So I'm thinking of maybe getting this gm sensor with the Zeitronix ECA, so total price would be around 290 with a nice display and output for the ecu.
So I'm thinking of maybe getting this gm sensor with the Zeitronix ECA, so total price would be around 290 with a nice display and output for the ecu.