duranvw

iTrader: (2)

Those two wires coming off relay 3 going into a massive tapped up run of wires. I assume going through the firewall and into one of the connectors under the dash as you mentioed. I unplugged and looked at all the connectors on the driver and passenger side foot wells. I couldn't find what looked to be C-21 yet. Based on the wiring diagram does this mean those wires are in pins 1 and 5 on connector C-21?

90zcrex

iTrader: (11)

yea
If you can't find connector C-21 I would just run a new wire, tap into either red/white wire at relay 3 and run it to the resistor.

duranvw

iTrader: (2)

Ah I think I found a page showing that this connector is on the left side of the shifter under the centor console piece, will be checking this out when I get home tonight

duranvw

iTrader: (2)

Update time, sorry this might get long.

So in regards to my post of the tested wire continuity yesterday, I was an idiot and had connector C-131 disconnected yesterday, so yes the RED wire from fuel pump relay 3 to the fuel pump DOES have continuity. The only wire that did not was the red-white wire between relay #3 and the resistor. I located connector C-21 beside the shifter, tested that relay#3 reached the red-white wire going to the C-21 connector but the resistor pigtail did not show continuity to it. I did an inline splice to the red-white wire just before entering C-21 and connected it to the red-white wire directly at the fuel pump resistor.

Sooo... the car will start and keep running now, checked voltage at the fuel pump and I'm getting the expected 9V..... however... after letting the car idle for a bit and warm up, the AFRs went super rich again. Basically the same thing that happened when I tried to hot wire the fuel pump with a direct 12V. I didn't attempt driving the car, It's late and didn't have headlights connected or insurance on it right now.

Now due to previous troubleshooting I do now have a Walboro 255 installed in place of the stock fuel pump, also have an Aeromotive FPR (Showing 40PSI). If I remember correctly I had hot wired 12V to the stock fuel pump and stock FPR and also had the AFRs get rich so I don't believe the fuel pump/fpr is at fault.

Below is a link to a datalog I did tonight after running the new wire between the resistor and relay, this is the car idling at 9v to fuel pump with a couple taps of the throttle. You can see AFRs good for a while but take a dive. When it goes to 11s' forever its likely richer than that just my old AEM wideband only reads as rich as 11 even if richer.

So, anything else in the log indicate why I might be getting so rich? Also not throwing any SES codes still.


https://dl.dropbox.com/u/51727132/Ev...uel%20pump.xls

90zcrex

iTrader: (11)

Seems like when it switches to closed loop is when your going rich, probably a bad front o2 sensor, You can see the injector pulse width getting higher when it goes rich so the ecu is richening up the mixture. Probably due to the front o2 feedback or lack there of.

duranvw

iTrader: (2)

I have a new front o2 sensor and cam angle sensor coming in from RockAuto, they are basically the only two things I haven't replaced lol. I think ETA on the parts is tomorrow so I will do o2 first and see what happens. The log does show readings from the front o2, appears to be within the expected values I think.

It's starting to get cold here, winter on its way. Hopefully o2 fixes it I don't want to do the head gasket on my Integra

duranvw

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,

So I'm going crazy now, since I was waiting for the o2 sensor I decided to flash a full open loop tune with my new wire in place from the resistor to connector C-21. I ran the car for a good 5-10 minutes and the AFRs actually stayed closer to normal once it warmed up. I figured I would try and take it for a drive around the block this way. I wanted to run the new wire permanently, I tried to get it through the firewall but had trouble there so ran it through the driver side fender. I put the strut bar back on, headlights in and go to start the car... now all of a sudden it idles like crap.

Sounds as if it's not firing on all cylinders and reving the car creates quite the vibration. I thought maybe I clipped or damaged a wire trying to get through the gromet on the firewall, tested all wiring to the coil packs and they are good. I'm losing my mind here.

Here is another data log from it now with a rough idle, also not throwing any codes either. I can't win with this car


https://dl.dropbox.com/u/51727132/Ev...ugh%20idle.xls

joseph143

iTrader: (8)

any luck with the car?

i've recently lost my mind chasing down a similar issue on a friends evo. start the car it will rev to 11-1400 and die. if you continually blip the throttle it will run but not well.. noticed its knock light going off like crazy so followed that and it seemed the knock sensor was faulty. not the case. played with wiring for days to find out the omni 4bar had intermittent connection and was reading and then not reading. drove me insane trying to find it 3 nearly 4 weeks. even had to call in Aaron from ER and MRFred for help... but the car seems good now. hopefully you work yours out. let us know the fix so we can reference it later.

gigitalon

iTrader: (3)

I know its been a while but, i had this isue last year and after a lot of time, i end up replacing the litle resistor in the relAy number 3 with a wire. And that solve my problem, one year like that now and everything alright. I want to said that i test the resistor and it was ok. But i try it anyway because i was desepareted lol.

So just to be clear, i open the fuel pump relay number 3 and i change the little resistor for a real electric wire and its working nice.

Just to help other