thesyko

By changing the item in your picture, does it mean the gearbox will be able to stand higher boosting pressure and not explode on-itself?

Or do we need to still increase the line pressure? Btw, does anybody knows how to increase the line-pressure? Will the be any side effects on increasing it?

VVV

Well, I'd say the AT usually fails at around 150.000km. Yours is kind of at the very edge. The planetaries have a cover welded to them, which in a way delays the event, but not too long. I've attached another foto so that you can get the idea.

I've also forgot to mention the always breaking low reverse brake spring. It is a defective design and also was fixed.

Here's a list of parts you will need for a rebuild:

•Large planetary carrier assy 2762A003 or 2762A015
•Middle planetary assy 2762A014
•Small planetary assy 2762A012
•L-R brake spring: 2741A007 (DO NOT ORDER OLD NUMBER MR534166)
•AT Filter MD758684 (cheaper replacements - Transtar 23800 or JS ASAKASHI JT206K)
•Oil pump gasket MD752800 (this number ONLY!!!)
•2nd brake piston MD757211 (cheaper replacement - Hyundai 45675-39501)
• AT valve body gasket MN168327 (or Hyundai 46264-39510 but you'll need to make an extra hole in it, just compare old and new gasket to find out where).
•Oil pump seal MD707575 - it is always a good idea to replace it once you've removed the AT from your car. You might also consider changing the rear crankshaft oil seal.
•Silicone gasket maker (I prefer Victor Reinz).

Courtesy of airtrek-turbo.ru

Yep, all parts are direct replacement. Just plug & pray :-)

The rebuild itself is fairly easy, just follow the manual. No special tools needed. Took me about 1.5-2 days.

I've also increased the AT oil linear pressure via the adjusting screw on the valve body. Makes gear shift MUCH faster so you can really implement more agressive shift patterns.

VVV

The new parts are modified to withstand higher loads, eg. the pins are bigger in diameter.

Increasing line pressure makes gearshifts much faster. The only side effect I know of is faster oil deterioration, so you better replace it every 30.000km. Also, a DECENT A/T oil cooler is highly recommended.

limaynard

Thanks, another job to put on my list !!

thesyko

What is the original linear pressure? and what is the best pressure that i should set / increase it to?

I haven't rebuild a gearbox in my life, done a zillion engine rebuilds and race-prep engines but haven't till today opened up a gearbox. It will be a first for me and hopefully i don't kill the gearbox.

Any machining work needed? and estimate cost of all the replacement parts? should the torque converter and clutch in the gearbox be replaced also?

GregM

iTrader: (1)

I don't see the point in increasing the pressure when you can control the shift speed via the ecu. Totally agree on the oil cooler, first mod, get a big dam oil cooler!!!

thesyko

I got the 2nd oil-cooler in place, mounted behind the radiator grill. Will snap a picture of it later.

The way I piped the oil cooler's are as below;

Gearbox Oil output --> original oil cooler --> secondary oil cooler --> back to gearbox

I removed the oil-cooler hose to circulate via the radiator, no use in it. The water temp in the radiator is already hot, and the oil that flows to it gets hotter instead of getting cooler.

Will be getting a suction fan installed on the back of the original oil cooler.

VVV

We turn the adjusting bolt 4 turns counter-clockwise. I don't remember the numbers, TBH. Just remember the number of turns :-)

Just be accurate and follow the manual. If you need it, I can send the PDF. Put things back together EXACTLY the way they were assembled before :-)

No machining work. As for the parts, it depends on where you live. Seals and gaskets are cheap, the planetaries are much more expensive. You can replace the big one and just weld the small ones if you wanna go the cheaper way. The torque converter should be left as is and friction plates were like new in my gearbox.

VVV

Not exactly. Eg. the torque converter will operate faster with higher pressure and there's no way you can control its hydraulics via the ECU.
Even with the stock firmware I've really felt the difference - the shifts are blazing fast, I really don't even feel or notice them. The EVO7 GTA/Airtrek A/T is really worth a praise (put aside the flaws mentioned above :-) ).

limaynard

Total cost of parts on Amayama.com is under 800 USD...

C00LM4N

Hello, guys!
I am one of the creators of airtrek-turbo.ru
We have a lot of info about flashing it, rebuilding AT transmission (I recommend you to buy planetary gears using new partnumbers, the largest one is reinforced; I also advise you to weld the pins using a laser welding - it won't save you from theirs bearings failure, but they won't fall out) and other stuff. Some of us knows English, so you can register (google translate will help you) and post your questions. You're welcome!)

Laser welding:

thesyko

Yea dude, do send me the PDF.

david [at] thesyko.net

by the way, by modifying / rebuilding the gearbox this way will the 300hp limit still be on the gearbox or it should and will be able to hold higher horsepower's?

VVV

The EVO 7 GTA uses the same A/T as Airtrek. I've seen GTAs with much more horsepower than 300hp and their transmissions are still fine :-).

VVV

Did you receive it?

thesyko

Thanks for the PDF, sorry for the late reply. Been traveling and I'm finally back at my location. Will start the part ordering excercise soon, and once everything is in then I'll rebuild the whole gearbox nice and proper.

Just a question, can we change the clutch in the gearbox to a heavy duty set or is the OEM set sufficient?