Flashing an Airtrek Turbo
Nov 3, 2013, 07:40 PM
#197
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea I seen that on your facebook. Did it go to a local?
Do you still have your roms? Im in need of a timing map to compare against mine.
Whens the modding on the ford start lol, should have brought a turbo one!
Do you still have your roms? Im in need of a timing map to compare against mine.
Whens the modding on the ford start lol, should have brought a turbo one!
Nov 6, 2013, 08:31 PM
#199
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Guys, I haven't posted here for a while.
Evodroid is all working and logging.
Turbo and Tactrix 3-Port seems to be working well
WGDC and BDEL tables seem quite good (and smooth)
The car feels sluggish still. It seems good at part throttle but not so great at WOT so maybe time to turn my attention to Timing....
I am planning to go back to stock spark maps and modify from there.
1. log
2. eliminate knock (well most of it anyway)
3. add timing in other cells until it knocks
I think it may be trial and error for a while given my TD04-19t, Tomei Cams, custom exhaust.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Evodroid is all working and logging.
Turbo and Tactrix 3-Port seems to be working well
WGDC and BDEL tables seem quite good (and smooth)
The car feels sluggish still. It seems good at part throttle but not so great at WOT so maybe time to turn my attention to Timing....
I am planning to go back to stock spark maps and modify from there.
1. log
2. eliminate knock (well most of it anyway)
3. add timing in other cells until it knocks
I think it may be trial and error for a while given my TD04-19t, Tomei Cams, custom exhaust.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Nov 6, 2013, 09:50 PM
#200
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Although tuning timing till knock "works" its definatly not the best way to do it. Timing is best tuned on a dyno and advanced untill there is no more gain in torque and left there. Knock could happen far past this point. Given you now have some cams why not book in some dyno time. Maybe a few of us could come on a weekend and maybe get a group discount. Good chance to check out some other airtreks too.
There is a stock ecu tuner with a 4wd dyno an hour away from me in new plymouth.
There is a stock ecu tuner with a 4wd dyno an hour away from me in new plymouth.
Last edited by Chubster; Nov 6, 2013 at 09:52 PM.
Nov 6, 2013, 11:32 PM
#201
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Although tuning timing till knock "works" its definatly not the best way to do it. Timing is best tuned on a dyno and advanced untill there is no more gain in torque and left there. Knock could happen far past this point. Given you now have some cams why not book in some dyno time. Maybe a few of us could come on a weekend and maybe get a group discount. Good chance to check out some other airtreks too.
There is a stock ecu tuner with a 4wd dyno an hour away from me in new plymouth.
There is a stock ecu tuner with a 4wd dyno an hour away from me in new plymouth.
I may have to bite the bullet and get it done in Sydney....
Nov 7, 2013, 03:49 AM
#203
Newbie
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Suriname
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, its all relative, you guys have the luxury of a dyno...even if its not local............
We only have 1 (ONE) dyno in the whole country..and its a 2WD dyno
I put all my eggs in the basket with my (remote) tuner and am very confident he can get every ounce out of the engine safely.
That being said, it would be nice to compare timing maps though
We only have 1 (ONE) dyno in the whole country..and its a 2WD dyno
I put all my eggs in the basket with my (remote) tuner and am very confident he can get every ounce out of the engine safely.
That being said, it would be nice to compare timing maps though
Dec 2, 2013, 03:01 AM
#206
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: china
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I'd say the AT usually fails at around 150.000km. Yours is kind of at the very edge. The planetaries have a cover welded to them, which in a way delays the event, but not too long. I've attached another foto so that you can get the idea.
I've also forgot to mention the always breaking low reverse brake spring. It is a defective design and also was fixed.
Here's a list of parts you will need for a rebuild:
•Large planetary carrier assy 2762A003 or 2762A015
•Middle planetary assy 2762A014
•Small planetary assy 2762A012
•L-R brake spring: 2741A007 (DO NOT ORDER OLD NUMBER MR534166)
•AT Filter MD758684 (cheaper replacements - Transtar 23800 or JS ASAKASHI JT206K)
•Oil pump gasket MD752800 (this number ONLY!!!)
•2nd brake piston MD757211 (cheaper replacement - Hyundai 45675-39501)
• AT valve body gasket MN168327 (or Hyundai 46264-39510 but you'll need to make an extra hole in it, just compare old and new gasket to find out where).
•Oil pump seal MD707575 - it is always a good idea to replace it once you've removed the AT from your car. You might also consider changing the rear crankshaft oil seal.
•Silicone gasket maker (I prefer Victor Reinz).
Courtesy of airtrek-turbo.ru
Yep, all parts are direct replacement. Just plug & pray :-)
The rebuild itself is fairly easy, just follow the manual. No special tools needed. Took me about 1.5-2 days.
I've also increased the AT oil linear pressure via the adjusting screw on the valve body. Makes gear shift MUCH faster so you can really implement more agressive shift patterns.
I've also forgot to mention the always breaking low reverse brake spring. It is a defective design and also was fixed.
Here's a list of parts you will need for a rebuild:
•Large planetary carrier assy 2762A003 or 2762A015
•Middle planetary assy 2762A014
•Small planetary assy 2762A012
•L-R brake spring: 2741A007 (DO NOT ORDER OLD NUMBER MR534166)
•AT Filter MD758684 (cheaper replacements - Transtar 23800 or JS ASAKASHI JT206K)
•Oil pump gasket MD752800 (this number ONLY!!!)
•2nd brake piston MD757211 (cheaper replacement - Hyundai 45675-39501)
• AT valve body gasket MN168327 (or Hyundai 46264-39510 but you'll need to make an extra hole in it, just compare old and new gasket to find out where).
•Oil pump seal MD707575 - it is always a good idea to replace it once you've removed the AT from your car. You might also consider changing the rear crankshaft oil seal.
•Silicone gasket maker (I prefer Victor Reinz).
Courtesy of airtrek-turbo.ru
Yep, all parts are direct replacement. Just plug & pray :-)
The rebuild itself is fairly easy, just follow the manual. No special tools needed. Took me about 1.5-2 days.
I've also increased the AT oil linear pressure via the adjusting screw on the valve body. Makes gear shift MUCH faster so you can really implement more agressive shift patterns.
Dear VVV, can you give me the pdf about the gearbox rebuild. Thks a lot for your help!
Feb 10, 2014, 01:20 PM
#208
Newbie
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Suriname
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vvv, received tha manual, thanks!!!
I have another question, if, rather, when tranny goes, is it possible to swap in a higher final gear? Does a evo one drop in or would it need to be custom (think i read somewhere it would need to be).
You guys have so much experience with these cars, i hope someone has already tried it!
I have another question, if, rather, when tranny goes, is it possible to swap in a higher final gear? Does a evo one drop in or would it need to be custom (think i read somewhere it would need to be).
You guys have so much experience with these cars, i hope someone has already tried it!
