Arlo

Thanks to Razorlab I now don't get the AYC Disabled message after 30psi boost.
I don't even know if tripping it kicked my ecu into another map.
Since my old school tuner turned into a hard head I want to try to curve 3-port boost myself.

Golden tapped out. Rax patch changed a lot of things that don't relate to Merlin's guide. YouTube, forums, and tuning guides don't resemble what I'm seeing in my tables.

Are there any guides that can assist me in understanding how all of the new tables relate to curving boost that aren't 10 years old?

Here's what I have now. 1-4th I can boost over 30psi. So I'm watching my gauge and pulling back on the gas.
5th at highway speeds and flooring it boost builds slow. If I lift my foot off the gas and floor it boost builds fast and will hit over 30psi.
And I'm still getting that damned surge from 2500-3000rpms.
I put my mbc back on and limited boost to ~28-30psi.
No surge and nice build through all gears.
I thought a 3-port was the hot ticket.

I need a guide that relates to my definitions.

Anyone?

Arlo

Holy crapola. Kevdogg gives cookies. Maybe I should give cookies.
Trying diligently to figure out boost curving.
And wtf is the reason for rapid flooring in 5th and boost spikes over 30, push it slow and boost build is laggy?
Chocolate chip? Or California special?
Guys?? Help!

WickWhiteEvox

Turbo?
Cams?
Wastegate Table?
PSI based or Load based?

Arlo

Saw your post in the other forum.

Darton sleeved 2.0, Buschur built.
GSC S1 cams
Pretty new at this and reading like a ****. Instant way to tell if it's psi or load based would be a great help.

WickWhiteEvox

Saw your boost control and Load in the other forums.
It appears you're doing load based tuning.
Log MAF and MAP calcs and correlate that to boost.

The MAF determines the boost level and the map typically determines the fuel (at least that's how it is on COBB)

Arlo

It's all super appreciated. Wrote that down in my notebook. And comparing them to other tuning guides.
Safe for my block? Considering its build.
Factors that do what is going on (runs good like drag strip shifting) highway driving is doing weird stuff. If I could get a handle on that.
Tuner hopping is getting old. And expensive. You know?
APP and TPS looks like they follow each other.
At first I thought it was a 1-1 APP/TPS until I floored it fast and then the butterfly snapped open before my foot was on the floor.
The tune on this car doesn't even look like what the guides show for baselines.
Baby steps.

bunnishiwa

Hi, don't really see how merlins guide isn't still relevant. It's an awesome how to

Your WGDC map looks very basic and blocky, and you haven't shown your boost targets maps - if the figures on that map are running up to 30 or so then you're on psi based, if they run into the 100:s then not.

Personally i started with the base boost pill tune, turned off positive error correction and dialled the WGDC down. Then set my boost targets on the boost target maps and began dialling up WGDC to match. I always asked to come in under target at first and dial things up slowly, starting with my initial curve then looking at controlling the peak. 30 psi is a concern of you're not aiming that high,

Once that was all good then turned error correction back on and spent even longer trying to get a positive error correction running to make use of RAX patch SST up shift change. This last bit was made easier once I realised that you could also adjust the psi targets to change error correction and overall boost curve.

Once I was happy with that I played with timing and mivec, adjusting WGDC or boost targets if they altered the boost curve.

How's this helps

Arlo

I appreciate your input. I have a pro tune using ecuflash. From delays from the tuner responding to emailed logs I decided to see if I could do minor tweaks to hopefully at lease ease the problems I experienced. I have to stress the word tweak.
It was when I opened the rom in ecuflash where things when 'south' (lol, not as far down as you are). Trying to compare guides, forums, more forums, web pages....
It was difficult to tell what was going on the tuner's head. Nothing made sense.
I know posting rom's here is not cool.
But I've had no less than 5 pro tunes since around 1996. Only one got it right on the first shot every 3 times of 3 stages of upgrades.

I'm of the impression that in most cases tuner's will strap your car on the dyno and tune it for ***** out drag strip performance. That would be OK if my car(s) were trailer queens. But they aren't. They're driven on the street, driven from the ocean to hill tops. Period.

Yes, I'm very new to understanding what guides take for granted that you know what every table does, how they all work together, or work independently.
GSC told me that they grind their cams using factory mapping. No help there for MIVEC.
I figured if I get a surge in a limited range under a medium load only at high elevations...a barometric sensor, wgdc, load parameter....or something would be a factor. Just changing WGDC 0.5% screwed up everything around the problem area.
A load table that I have looks nothing like what others use. It's fixed at one value over a wide range.

So the tuner used another method. But one thing I can say is. It is tuned for a drag strip. Not for ***** out every day driving under a wide range of conditions.
Nothing like my IX MR was tuned for.

So that is my dilemma. And I mentioned it before. That is why COBB is making you take a tuning course. I veered away from them. Tech support sucked, no response to messages. And EVERYONE says get an ECU tune.