GM 3 port wastegate solenoid not working right
Oct 12, 2018, 02:15 PM
#17
Alright, so I have been messing with it some more with the stock 2 port connected. It does some funky stuff sometimes and only sometimes. Currently, I have BEC set to 0 across the board so it shouldnt auto adjust. I have boost cut set at 270 which it will never hit. The desired boost set in the ECU almost matches the actual boost curve. But for some reason, mostly in 1st and 2nd and sometimes in 3rd, I am still getting boost cut or something like it. 4th-6th wont do it and it will hold a solid 20 psi for as long as I want. If I floor it in 1st or 2nd, it goes to about 22 psi, starts tapering as it should and then instantly drops to about 13-14 psi. If you let off the gas and get back on it, right back up to where the boost should be but then cuts off again. When it happens, you can clearly hear it. Sounds like a hose popped off and air is rushing out. But all the hoses are connect and not leaking. Any ideas on what else would make it cut boost? I randomly get a high knock count in one or 2 cells, never the same cells at that. And by high knock (I think false knock), I mean like 15 counts in the one cell and 0 counts in all surrounding cells. Would a spike like that cause it to cut boost cause they happen at about the same time? I would imagine it would only cut timing which shouldnt affect boost.
Oct 13, 2018, 11:18 AM
#18
Sounds like a regular ol' boost look. Weird, man.
As for the knock, 15 counts with nothing before or after makes no sense, unless your laptop is logging VERY slow. Maybe the sudden jolt from boost cut is causing something to rattle. Still, that should show in more than one cell, assuming the laptop is logging at a reasonable rate. What are the time stamps like, in the logs?
As for the knock, 15 counts with nothing before or after makes no sense, unless your laptop is logging VERY slow. Maybe the sudden jolt from boost cut is causing something to rattle. Still, that should show in more than one cell, assuming the laptop is logging at a reasonable rate. What are the time stamps like, in the logs?
Oct 13, 2018, 12:34 PM
#19
If it was a boost leak, wouldn't it do it in every gear though? If it is a boost leak, are you thinking its on the vac lines going to the solenoid/WG or somewhere on the main charge tubes?
Most likely it was the laptop logging super slower. I just got a new one yesterday because of how slow my old one is. If it stops raining, I'll go out and log again with the new one and see what it does. There is also a rattle under the car around the same point as when the crazy knock occurs. I think it's the shielding on the down pipe.
Most likely it was the laptop logging super slower. I just got a new one yesterday because of how slow my old one is. If it stops raining, I'll go out and log again with the new one and see what it does. There is also a rattle under the car around the same point as when the crazy knock occurs. I think it's the shielding on the down pipe.
Oct 13, 2018, 12:42 PM
#20
If a leak, it would do it any time the turbo can't keep up with engine RPM and the leak. The longer the gear and longer the turbo would need to keep boost, the more noticeable it would be. Taller gears = more obvious.
Then again, a leak you could hear while driving would be really obvious when doing a boost leak test. That's why I say it's weird. Acts like a bad leak, but not really, since it doesn't show during a test.
That vibration/rattle under the car could very well be your knock. When boost cut kicks in, there is a "jolt" and things are gonna rattle. I used to get "knock" at boost cut when I my downpipe would rattle on one of the cross braces. This may be the same thing, kinda sorta.
Then again, a leak you could hear while driving would be really obvious when doing a boost leak test. That's why I say it's weird. Acts like a bad leak, but not really, since it doesn't show during a test.
That vibration/rattle under the car could very well be your knock. When boost cut kicks in, there is a "jolt" and things are gonna rattle. I used to get "knock" at boost cut when I my downpipe would rattle on one of the cross braces. This may be the same thing, kinda sorta.
Oct 13, 2018, 07:35 PM
#22
Well I might have found an issue. For some reason, the tune I have been using did not have any of the MUT addresses changed for most of the wastegate/boost control stuff. So I cloned the tune its currently on and changed just the MUT addresses as explained in this thread. I will take it out for a spin and see if anything changes.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...t-control.html
Will not changing the MUT addresses from stock cause some odd things to happen?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...t-control.html
Will not changing the MUT addresses from stock cause some odd things to happen?
Oct 13, 2018, 08:04 PM
#23
Where are you getting your ROMs? I've never seen someone have so much trouble. Good ROMs are all over the internet, especially the TehphraMOD thread, on this site. You should be able to load it and just start tuning. You shouldn't have to mess with MUT addresses. It's all been done for yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaars. That thread is 11yrs old and the info is seriously outdated.
It kinda seems like you're trying to reinvent the wheel, here. Have you found the TehphraMOD thread? I believe 100% of us are using those ROMs by now.
It kinda seems like you're trying to reinvent the wheel, here. Have you found the TehphraMOD thread? I believe 100% of us are using those ROMs by now.
Oct 13, 2018, 10:18 PM
#24
I am starting with the base rom that came with Ecuflash. I'm sure its ancient. From there I had to add new text to the rom to open up new parameters. Then change the MUT address to use those new parameters. I didn't want to do the tephramod until I figured out how to use the program but apparently that was a bad idea and is making this a lot more difficult. I'll do some searching around to see if I can find a better rom to start with. Something that has everything enabled and ready to go. As I have stated before, I am not a professional tuner, Ecuflash is unlike any other tuning program I have used before and yes, I am a bit confused. I know how to tune, just not how to use this program!
is this the thread you are talking about?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...hramod-v7.html
is this the thread you are talking about?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...hramod-v7.html
Oct 14, 2018, 12:22 AM
#26
I will let you know how it goes. Most likely, I will either go to a MBC or a Turbosmart wastegate, without the ecu having any input and call it a day. If it really comes to it and I cant figure it out, I will just take it to get tuned and let someone else deal with it. Time is money as they say.
Oct 16, 2018, 12:47 PM
#29
Are you talking about the option 2 on this link? If so, thats for the X. I only see one option listed for the IX. And I dont have the JDM map, I have the Omni 4 bar. But thats easy to add in if I need to.
http://www.tephra.it/
But then if you click the the Evo IX on that link it gives you more options. Option 2 being the USDM one. Is that what you meant? Cause thats the same ROM I am on (minus all the extras they already loaded in).
http://www.tephra.it/
But then if you click the the Evo IX on that link it gives you more options. Option 2 being the USDM one. Is that what you meant? Cause thats the same ROM I am on (minus all the extras they already loaded in).
Oct 16, 2018, 01:44 PM
#30
I was refering to post #2 in the thread I linked. Scroll down to Evo IX and it has 3 options.
From looking at your evoscan screen shots from earlier, I don’t believe you are on a tephra v7 map. Fuel and ignition maps have larger maps for better resolution in the Tephra v7 ROMs.
From looking at your evoscan screen shots from earlier, I don’t believe you are on a tephra v7 map. Fuel and ignition maps have larger maps for better resolution in the Tephra v7 ROMs.