Either way. That car rips at that power/mod combo. It doesn't matter what dyno you're on.

 

My 535hp DJ car would be 600hp on TTPs MD dyno

Mikey

 

agreed

 

You don't need a technician to calibrate the dyno.

 

You would be lucky to break 500whp on TTP's dyno. My HTA86 makes 551whp there which is about 6% lower than any dynojet.

 

It was a joke... hence the

 

My car only did 509hp@38psi on the Precision BB5857 In comparisson to 535hp with the weather correction I did on my street tune with the red last time at TTP. So yeah I say that TTP'S dyno is reading right on par with other "Low" reading Mustand Dynos.

 

Evo2wIsh4,

Sorry for the Off Topic, but how does your car feel with the 5857 in comparison to the Red? Especially the spool and on/off throttle response?

Thanks!

 

The main diffence is spoolup. The red would hit hard right at 3800 while the 5857 hits at 4500 but the 5857 keeps making power all the way past 8k while the red died down after 7200. My new setup feels way faster than the red eventhough it made "less" power.

 

I was trying to pick between a 5857 and a Red but I picked the Red for spoolup and the fact that the front facing 5857 setup I wanted to do came out total to about $6800 So that was ultimately my deciding factor in picking the Red, cost and still can make me over 500whp.

 

You have that backwards. The dyno that loaded the motor MORE will cause it to spool sooner and make more torque down low.

 

A properly calibrated mustang dyno will read about 12% lower than a dynojet with equal correction factors (i've tested this multiple times with 3 dynojets and 2 different mustang dynos). Another thing you have to keep in mind is where the weather station is located in relation to the actual car. Most dyno areas have the weather station on a wall somewhere or under the table somewhere so alot of times its correcting for conditions that are different from what the car is actually seeing at its intake ( cool air from fans, hot air from no fans or crappy fans, heat soak or the near by air from the engine heat, a cool breeze blowing through, or even exhaust contamination around the vehicle with shops that are less ventilated ) . This can have a pretty huge affect on the corrected power output. Thats why its best just to see baseline vs final powergains. There are too many variables that can affect the readings.. I've even done tests and proven that strapping the car closer to the front of the roller or farther to the back of the roller and tighter and looser can greatly affect the power readings. Mustang dynos and dynapacks do allow for much better tunes due to their loading strategy, but comparing one number to another will never really be an apples to apples comparison due to all the variables.

 

Why are my number higher on a dynojet then? Its easier for the car to turn the rollers of the dynojet than the mustang. I know the mustang can load my car more, resulting in quicker spool or possibly more boost, but it still read lower...

 

The original poster has these numbers in his signature...

That equates to about 5.85% lower than the dynojet numbers.

Most dynos for turbo cars do not use weather correction on turbo cars so when you are talking about "equal correction factors" it makes no sense.

 

The numbers are numbers, its not like I had the shops play with correction factors or modes to supply me with a number that would make me happy. Simply said tune it, printed a sheet, and then I tracked it. The setup isnt perfrect yet by any means! Just sharing my results with everyone, b/c I know I enjoying looking at new charts just as much as you all.