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Why you need to do an EGR delete

Old Aug 26, 2014, 12:26 PM
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http://www.shopenglishracing.com/Eng...GR-Delete.html
Old Aug 27, 2014, 11:49 AM
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Shipping almost costs as much as the item. :/
Old Aug 27, 2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bbong
Shipping almost costs as much as the item. :/
do it your self from piece of aluminum.
Old Aug 27, 2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by egis
do it your self from piece of aluminum.
Kind of rude... its a ~40$ mod and he took the time to come on and bring this to peoples attention... I'm sure he's answering a bunch of PM's about this too... So why not spend the very minimal amount of money as a way of saying thank you...

Just a thought.
Old Aug 27, 2014, 02:15 PM
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Before I get crucified with people telling me to search etc... Will this come with instructions as to what you can now remove IE. sensors vacuum lines etc...
Old Aug 27, 2014, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Skylineracer
Before I get crucified with people telling me to search etc... Will this come with instructions as to what you can now remove IE. sensors vacuum lines etc...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-canister.html

I'll go grab my nails and hammer
Old Aug 27, 2014, 02:38 PM
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It's nice to be able to take a big box of crap off your car. Less to fail as the car ages.
Old Aug 27, 2014, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by egis
do it your self from piece of aluminum.
Originally Posted by mkcolgan
Kind of rude... its a ~40$ mod and he took the time to come on and bring this to peoples attention... I'm sure he's answering a bunch of PM's about this too... So why not spend the very minimal amount of money as a way of saying thank you...

Just a thought.
I see both sides of this and thank both posters.

Since this contributes to idle motor failure, TB issues since thats the first place 1500* exhaust goes, knock, etc. it made sense to do a test and offer a product. This has been common knowledge since the DSM days that the EGR causes IAC issues. Almost all Evos are 75k anymore and when I saw an NA 2.4 with a bad EGR I thought how much more likely are the turbo ones to be bad.

We do lots of testing that almost no one sees nor ever pays for. Who played with 2150s before anyone, had a LR2.4 Evo, modded MIVEC cam gears, helped iron out bugs in SD, or did alpha testing for Tephra in Feb of 2007?

That is not the point. I test so I know what it does. Why we did the Auto in the DSM and then Evo, why my brother bought an RA and I bought a X MR, when its here in front of me 24/7 I learn. I could choose to never talk about what we do and then when someone else tests it I could say "hey I tested that 10 years ago and knew this", what would you think? I would think that person was an A-hole. While I keep some trade secrets a little closer, things like this are meant to be shared and show why we need to do them. Tunes dont change, idle problems are only going to progress, so this proactive to keep complaint phone calls minimized in at least one department.

You can make this yourself out of aluminum at home if you have the stuff to do it. IF you dont, you will need a grinder, some aluminum, probably a bench grinder, etc. Seems like that costs more than $25 to get setup. Or a waterjet if you want them to look like this.

Last edited by JohnBradley; Aug 27, 2014 at 05:25 PM.
Old Aug 27, 2014, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mkcolgan
Kind of rude... its a ~40$ mod and he took the time to come on and bring this to peoples attention... I'm sure he's answering a bunch of PM's about this too... So why not spend the very minimal amount of money as a way of saying thank you...

Just a thought.
yes,hes a good man but i meant that ppl can make their own block off plate if they want to or they can buy it from vendors.thats all.
Old Aug 27, 2014, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
I see both sides of this and thank both posters.

Since this contributes to idle motor failure, TB issues since thats the first place 1500* exhaust goes, knock, etc. it made sense to do a test and offer a product. This has been common knowledge since the DSM days that the EGR causes IAC issues. Almost all Evos are 75k anymore and when I saw an NA 2.4 with a bad EGR I thought how much more likely are the turbo ones to be bad.

We do lots of testing that almost no one sees nor ever pays for. Who played with 2150s before anyone, had a LR2.4 Evo, modded MIVEC cam gears, helped iron out bugs in SD, or did alpha testing for Tephra in Feb of 2007?

That is not the point. I test so I know what it does. Why we did the Auto in the DSM and then Evo, why my brother bought an RA and I bought a X MR, when its here in front of me 24/7 I learn. I could choose to never talk about what we do and then when someone else tests it I could say "hey I tested that 10 years ago and knew this", what would you think? I would think that person was an A-hole. While I keep some trade secrets a little closer, things like this are meant to be shared and show why we need to do them. Tunes dont change, idle problems are only going to progress, so this proactive to keep complaint phone calls minimized in at least one department.

You can make this yourself out of aluminum at home if you have the stuff to do it. IF you dont, you will need a grinder, some aluminum, probably a bench grinder, etc. Seems like that costs more than $25 to get setup. Or a waterjet if you want them to look like this.
Old Aug 29, 2014, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mitsubeastlee
I left the hard line running under the fire wall alone (the line that runs to the gas tank i assume) besides weight, will i see any other benefit by deleting the hardline as well as emissions extras on gastank?
That is the EVAP system.

FYI. If you live in MA and want an inspection sticker, do not delete EGR or EVAP. Even if you turn them off in ECUflash and "force pass", you will fail inspection.

Also, bench grinder + aluminum= bad

Last edited by wingless; Aug 29, 2014 at 08:34 AM.
Old Aug 29, 2014, 09:53 AM
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bench grinder + ATF + mask = fine. It doesnt embed into the wheel.
Old Aug 29, 2014, 01:39 PM
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Thanks for showing that a leaking EGR system can cost real power. For those of us who can't delete, is there a good / easy way to test if our EGR valve is bad and needs replacing? I know I can pull it and plug, but not sure of a more simple way thru the ECU, etc.
Old Aug 29, 2014, 02:51 PM
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You can make a fairly thin spacer to sit between the stock EGR valve and the manifold. The other option is pulling the intake off and tapping the manifold for a pipe plug and then remounting the EGR. Do a high boost boost leak test and see if you can hear it near the valve...not always easy to do.
Old Aug 29, 2014, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by wingless
FYI. If you live in MA and want an inspection sticker, do not delete EGR or EVAP. Even if you turn them off in ECUflash and "force pass", you will fail inspection.
False.. I've never had an inspector look for any of that on any car. Only if you screw up the ECU part of getting inspected and get sent to a MAC station after a few attempts will you need it there.

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