Round #2 TSComptuned 2.4L Buschur FF 6466 GSC S3 E85 32psi through 38psi
Nov 6, 2014, 09:48 AM
#16
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wow..excellent thread! If you don't mind me asking, whats the plug gap that you're running?
Off to go read thru your thread...I'm sure when I'm done I'll have more questions!
Off to go read thru your thread...I'm sure when I'm done I'll have more questions!
Nov 6, 2014, 10:35 AM
#17
The Nitto 555R hook up so well it is amazing how well they can handle power and hook
Nov 7, 2014, 07:19 AM
#19
Tom the tires we have on our cars are Nitto 555 not the Nitto 555R. The 555 is a summer tire the 555R is the radial version. The radial version we wouldnt get more then 10,000-15,000 miles on and they would be horrible in the rain. Our tires however are great in the rain!
Being the fact i spin 1st in any weather temp and spin 2nd in 50 degree's or under im going to go with the radial one next! I love the Nitto's tho super quite of a tire too!
Being the fact i spin 1st in any weather temp and spin 2nd in 50 degree's or under im going to go with the radial one next! I love the Nitto's tho super quite of a tire too!
Nov 9, 2014, 05:43 PM
#28
I was having the exact same issue and thought it was my alternator, however it turned out to be my power wire going to the alternator had corroded badly and wasn't making a good connection inside the terminal (I replaced the stock wire with a heavier gauge when I rebuilt the engine and soldered it, the solder just didn't hold)
It was hard to diagnose because the heat shrink kept the wire in place, but once I bent the terminal it just kinda fell apart.
Also, I sent you a message about finishing my tune, not sure if you got it.
It was hard to diagnose because the heat shrink kept the wire in place, but once I bent the terminal it just kinda fell apart.
Also, I sent you a message about finishing my tune, not sure if you got it.
I lowered the boost since the misfire issue, so once I check everything yet and confirm everything is good I will go to the track now maybe this Wednesday if weather is ok.
Tom the tires we have on our cars are Nitto 555 not the Nitto 555R. The 555 is a summer tire the 555R is the radial version. The radial version we wouldnt get more then 10,000-15,000 miles on and they would be horrible in the rain. Our tires however are great in the rain!
Being the fact i spin 1st in any weather temp and spin 2nd in 50 degree's or under im going to go with the radial one next! I love the Nitto's tho super quite of a tire too!
Being the fact i spin 1st in any weather temp and spin 2nd in 50 degree's or under im going to go with the radial one next! I love the Nitto's tho super quite of a tire too!
Ya I got the tires wrong. Nitto 555 extreme zr is what they are.
The reason I got a GT-R is so I can tune other GT-R's. Its a business investment.
Ya this stupid thing has been down for awhile now for random dumb issues.
Whats on my car are Nitto 555 Extreme ZR. I agree Radials suck for driving around on the street.
Nov 9, 2014, 07:16 PM
#29
I'm going to try to get the car to the track asap (Track schedule looks kind of busy with not many test & tunes left). I lowered the boost a lot though just to be safe.
My cousin came to the shop to give me a hand on removing the alternator from the car and installing the new one.
As we were taking the old alternator off, I noticed it was turning like it was cut in half. At first I didn't believe what I was seeing, or maybe thought it was normal to move.
So after we finally got the alternator off ( kind of a PITA to get out). After you remove the OEM fuel pressure regulator from the rail it comes out, but its a very tight fit still)
We started to mess with it. It turns out all 4 long screws were missing from it that hold it together. How this happened is beyond me. Years ago when my car had a bad failure from the fuel pump failure, due to the pressure switch not working, the alternator got whacked really hard. It also had oil spilled all over it & inside it.
I knew I was hearing something from my car now for awhile at idle, But I just couldn't pin point. Now I know what it was. The alternator was vibrating itself apart.
The alternator prior got whacked so hard I had to replace the pulley on it, since it was very bent up. My guess is, the impact from before, and the oil just loosened everything up over time.
I think i got very lucky here. The alternator was just giving enough volts to not really hurt the car. Thankfully, I replaced it when I did, and did not end up with any severe problems occurring.
Now after the new alternator was in, the car went from idling 11 volts to now 14.3 solid and not moving on the tester at the shop.
The lights are all brighter then before in the car, and the AFR went from 14 afr to 12 afr at idle. Now the car needs retuned again.
I'm going to check the torque on the ARP head studs since I haven't done so since torquing on the engine stand, and burp coolant just in case, replace plugs, and go from there.
The track near me doesn't look like it has a open slot until the 22nd on Saturday. I'll get some videos to show how fast the speedo moves though with my go pro meanwhile.
So I'll update thread after I get it back out with some videos. I will slowly up the boost again and see how it does. Hopefully I can get some cool go pro footage of the car.
My cousin came to the shop to give me a hand on removing the alternator from the car and installing the new one.
As we were taking the old alternator off, I noticed it was turning like it was cut in half. At first I didn't believe what I was seeing, or maybe thought it was normal to move.
So after we finally got the alternator off ( kind of a PITA to get out). After you remove the OEM fuel pressure regulator from the rail it comes out, but its a very tight fit still)
We started to mess with it. It turns out all 4 long screws were missing from it that hold it together. How this happened is beyond me. Years ago when my car had a bad failure from the fuel pump failure, due to the pressure switch not working, the alternator got whacked really hard. It also had oil spilled all over it & inside it.
I knew I was hearing something from my car now for awhile at idle, But I just couldn't pin point. Now I know what it was. The alternator was vibrating itself apart.
The alternator prior got whacked so hard I had to replace the pulley on it, since it was very bent up. My guess is, the impact from before, and the oil just loosened everything up over time.
I think i got very lucky here. The alternator was just giving enough volts to not really hurt the car. Thankfully, I replaced it when I did, and did not end up with any severe problems occurring.
Now after the new alternator was in, the car went from idling 11 volts to now 14.3 solid and not moving on the tester at the shop.
The lights are all brighter then before in the car, and the AFR went from 14 afr to 12 afr at idle. Now the car needs retuned again.
I'm going to check the torque on the ARP head studs since I haven't done so since torquing on the engine stand, and burp coolant just in case, replace plugs, and go from there.
The track near me doesn't look like it has a open slot until the 22nd on Saturday. I'll get some videos to show how fast the speedo moves though with my go pro meanwhile.
So I'll update thread after I get it back out with some videos. I will slowly up the boost again and see how it does. Hopefully I can get some cool go pro footage of the car.
Nov 10, 2014, 05:56 AM
#30
that is insane that it was even staying together and making juice. Clearly, when it separated it lost its ability to ground out through the block etc. I just can't imagine if it had completely let go at 9k rpm.
When i mis-diagnosed my car having an alternator issue, i though it looked easier to drop it down than pull it up. Talk about a pain in the ***, i think I had to yank the axle or something.
When i mis-diagnosed my car having an alternator issue, i though it looked easier to drop it down than pull it up. Talk about a pain in the ***, i think I had to yank the axle or something.