nzevo8

Modifications:

-Stock Block
-Stock Head
-Stock headstuds
-Stock headgasket
-Kelford TX 272 type L camshaft (10mm intake & exhaust lift)
-Tomei cams
-GSC zero tick Lifters
-FP Red DBB ported & coated MHI housing (with Turbo blanket)
-Turbosmart internal wastegate actuator (18psi spring)
-Curt Brown ported exhaust manifold
-JMF 02 Dump pipe (titanium heat wrapped)
-Apexi N1 downpipe (titanium heat wrapped)
-STM cat delete pipe
-Apexi N1 cat back exhaust
-Custom short route intercooler pipe (wrapped in DEI heat gold reflect tape)
-Custom 4” front mount intercooler
-Tial Q blow of valve (8psi spring)
-Spoolin up C.O.P non CDI
-NGK BR8EG spark plugs
-MAC 3 port boost control Solenoid (same as Grim-speed)
-ID1000 high impedance injectors
-Injector resister pack delete plug
-Removed EGR with block off plate
-Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
-Link G4 (plug in ecu)
-Link map sensor
-AEM Wideband
-HKS twin plate Clutch
-6 speed gearbox JDM Ratio's

Remote Tuned by Jay Markus @ Boosted Tuning

Im pretty happy with the results but Im posting on here seeking feedback, weather the car is capable of more power and torque with the supporting mods I have or if I have reached my limits.

Thanks

sssr20det510

With a stock block I would not want to push it any further. Good results for pump gas on a red.

94AWDcoupe

iTrader: (125)

how do you like that clutch? I assume you have the LA clutch?

nzevo8

cheers mate yeah we have to stop with the power and torque level there as I'm using the Link ecu so we dont have the stock knock detection on and i dont have a Link knock detection which is sold separately from the ECU.

The spool is a bit slow, we have looked at possible solutions. but i have just come to the conclusion it may well be that I'm just using the Turbosmart 18psi internal wastegate instead of a FP unit.
so iv got a Fp 28psi internal wastegate on the way to see weather that will do the trick, just a trail and error but I'm hoping that will help.

Iv got the older version not the LA. the clutch pedal is more soft then stock its easy to drive. The Clutch chatter isn't to bad iv been told compared to other twin plates , you only hear it when clutch is disengaged and in 5th and 6th gear at low rpm (2000rpm )

The previous owner of the car had it rebuilt just after just a couple of thousand kms, and the annoying thing about my clutch is that its really late before it bites, iv had it looked at but the shop told me that for some reason they could not adjust it and theres something wrong with it.

It works fine but yeah the late release is a bit annoying, personally i prefer something with a heavy pedal feel as well. and If i was choosing a new clutch i would just get a single plate that could hold the most torque. something from ACT perhaps.

sssr20det510

Sounds dangerous

nzevo8

yes your right, Jay has said hes just going to have to go off his Air/fuel ratios and ignition timing. which is done a lot of before. We have backed off from 430WTQ down to 420WTQ top help just a little bit.

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

Nice Graph!
I think a Fp 28psi internal wastegate actuator might be too much for pump gas. I'm running an 18psi forge actuator and I'm able to get 30 psi out of it. If your 98ron is like our 93oct then 450ish is pretty good for everyday abuse.
Any access to E-85 ?

nzevo8

yes my internal is capable but im thinking the Fp 28 may help , in theory mine is fine , but its just trail and error , I would of got the 25psi but that was $225 USD compare to the 28 which Fp have on sale for $100USD.

I don't have it at pump in my locate city the closest one is over 500km away , I can buy a drum of it though. problem is im at 83% duty cycle for E85 I will need something like FIC 1450cc injectors and a buschur double pump.

iv looked at race fuel the likes of 110 octane but I haven't been able to find anything , only option is VP 109 octane which id love but at $250NZD per 5 gallons !!!!! + $40NZD shipping.
better off to upgrade my injectors and fuel pump at those prices.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

With respect to your reported slow spool issue, spool does not look that bad based on the boost plot you posted. Especially if yours is a JB Red as opposed to a BB Red.

Have you run a boost leak test? You may find that your 8 PSI BOV is venting early which would tend to slow reaching peak manifold boost pressure and needlessly raise turbo shaft speeds.Have you established what actual spring pressure is with your current actuator fitted? You might want to try adjusting the actuator tighter. And finally, have you tried replacing the 18# spring in your turbosmart actuator with a 22# spring?

There are a bunch of other things you can try to improve spool on your setup. Some guys add an additional spring kinda like an external helper spring to the flapper valve pivot arm.

nzevo8

thanks for your help.

-Yes it is a DBB Red

-iv got the 8psi spring in the BOV because it was the suited spring for my vacuum according to the dyno it was previously tuned on. i still have a 11psi spring lying around which i would try, but since iv not got a new tune would my vacuum at idle change ?

-The current spring pressure in my wastegate is 1.2 bar which according to turbosmart spec's it should hold up to twice the boost pressure.

- Yes iv tighten the wastegate and no it didn't help

-It was a cheaper option to just change the spring but i thought i may as well take the risk and just get the FP unit since these turbos come with the option of the upgraded spring pressure. anyways that has just arrived so il be changing my wastegate and giving that ago.

Thanks for your help Sparky, much appreciated.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

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sparky

iTrader: (1)

I had a JB Red on my stock long block Evo 8. It was fitted with a heavily modded FP 18# actuator and a crushed MHI DV. I would hit 20# boost by 4200. So, I figure that with your DBB you should shoot for 20# by 4100 RPM roughly.

A lot of the turbo's spool response has to do with advancing the intake cam timing as well. I was running +2i/0e....albeit different cams.

nzevo8

iv just installed the Fp 28 so will see if that helps. also iv checked my cams they are -1/+1 iv asked Ted B for advice about the cams and he said theres no my problem and that its else where.

hopefully i will find out tomorrow weather the Fp wastegate helps

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

Thats a shame on not having e85 closer!
You mentioned having a link ecu. Do you have functioning knock control?

If you are going to test the 28psi actuator you may want to try it in the lower gears and see where the boost ends up. If it works as advertised thats a decent amount of boost on pump gas..
One thing to keep in mind about the different actuators and running them really tight, they might not allow the wastegate from opening all the way in higher gears .
If you bench test the actuator you may see that the arm on the fp unit is shorter then others and has a reduced range of motion. This may not matter for drag racing but for a street car its another thing to keep in mind for proper boost control in high gears.
I compared my stock,forge 18psi, and fp 25psi actuator and they were all different lengths while being bench tested.
I'd also recommend boost leak checking the car. It should be making boost quicker/better. My car as well as others had boost creep above 5K with a DBB red on a stock engine on stock cams. My car would run 18 -20psi until then and head north to 28lbs with 0 wastegate duty cycle. Hondaguy and myself ended up taking our turbo's off to port the wastegate opening. The cams you have allow the engine to flow better so it might not have the creep issue.

I agree with sparky that you car should spool up faster. Some of difference in spool may be the shorter jdm gearing in your 6 speed. I'm on the other side of the spectrum with a 4.11 and evo 8 gearing.My car crosses 20lb at 3600 on pump gas or e85 in 3rd.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

nzevo8: r u controlling boost via ecu?