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walmart sells mobil 15w50 synthetic for $25- / 5 quart jug
Is that what you run in yours?
I'm not sure if they recommend that weight necessarily.
If you're talking about the first picture then no. That was on the kyb struts and I believe twin s tech springs. They are about the same as the swift spec R Springs which I have looked into heavily.
If I can't get my bilsteins rebuilt when it comes time to, I'll get a set of B6s and the swift r springs.
I've used Valvoline VR1 in all my engines and will continue to. You can get it at autozone usually, in all four of their usual flavors(syn or conv, 10w30 or 20w50). I use 20w50 if I'm road racing or in a high heat environment, otherwise they get 10w30 to keep the oil pressures a bit lower. (No BS or squirters tends to bump the pressures pretty good)
I still have oil squirters, and my bearing clearances are a bit looser than factory. I have an oil pressure gauge waiting to go on the car, just need to get time to put it in and see where I'm at.
Not really, I made a boost leak tester to go on the intake of the turbo but my Worm gear clamps can't put enough tension to hold 20psi even so I can't boost leak test. And I know there has to be a big leak somewhere.
The heat went out on our house last Friday too so we're having to pay for a new heat exchanger to be installed. So that's eating into a lot of my tuning budget and injector money.
If you ever need some good worm gear clamps, go to the PVC section of Lowes, holy crap I tightened the **** out of these things and they didnt pop even a little.
I finally was able to do a boost leak test and find that my boost solenoid line had a cut in it, replaced that, then found the coupler from the J pipe to the IC piping is leaking around the connection under the clamp.
I haven't had the chance to get that off of the car yet to see why the clamp isn't keeping that tight enough to leak. The T-bolt clamp is all the way down and the dawn + water proved thats where its coming from.
Didn't seem to be leaking crazy fast, I feel like I should still be able to build more than 13 psi..
I also did a check to see if maybe it was the wastegate, I pulled the boost reference line off and did a quick pull.... 12-13psi so I guess either that leak is a lot worse than I thought or the turbo could have a leak on the CHRA somewhere??
My throttle body seals leak when the TB plate is closed but if I move it at all it quits.. At fully opened it barely made a sound, nothing like when it's closed. So I guess I need to replace those as well.
Been working on the 240 mostly though since I need to get it finished up so I can sell my miata and start dailying the 240.
Got the brake pedal replaced and the clutch master cylinder holes drilled out, just need to cinch those up some and get to my wiring. My last few bolts to get the transmission bolted up to the engine should be in today so hopefully I can have the engine in by this weekend!
Update 3-24: so I was able to fix the bov flange that leaked, an AN fitting that leaked, replaced a coupler and clamp that leaked, still can't get above 13psi unless I rail it in 4th gear and even then it's only hitting 14psi..
I'm not sure what's going on.. The car runs awesome, tonight I tightened up the bolts in the turbo outlet pipe and was able to hit 15psi but it still fell off to 10psi by 7k. That's so not good. I'm not sure at this point if it's a boost leak or an exhaust leak.
I am also probably running the world most conservative timing curve which I wouldn't think would keep the it from building boost exactly the same each time but maybe I'm wrong?
I do remember when putting on the hotside that the little alignment pin had broken off but wasn't totally flat on the 10.5 hotside either was going to use... I can't remember if I we t ahead and shaved it down all the way or not so that could be causing a bit of an exhaust leak pre turbine.
I know that there is a bit of a leak somewhere around the turbo because I Seafoamed it and it was leaking pretty good from somewhere down there but I couldn't keep the car running and look at where it was leaking before all the smoke from the tail pipe overloaded the garage.
I'm going to take the outlet pipe off totally tomorrow and make sure that there's no crap between the pipe and gasket and turbo because I didn't take it off tonight I just tightened the bolts. I remember thinking I was stripping them out when I put that on so I didn't do them very tight. I also ordered the FP manifold studs and bolts to be able to properly install my turbo to manifold finally. Something I should have done in the beginning.
I also found out my alternator died recently and I've been driving around hearing a whizzing kind of sound that I've been trying to ignore lol. My gauges started flickering tonight pulling in the driveway and I've been having issues with my cobalt boost gauge not work right lately so I knew it was something electrical. I can check off a new alternator now too because I got that ordered as well.
I mentioned earlier that I solved my boost leak check problems, but they seem to have come back. I keep blowing the tester pipe out of the intake. Not to mention that I can't seem to keep pressure high enough for long enough to test very well before the compressor kicks on and I can't hear anything.
I Bought the manifold studs from FP that go with this manifold and I had planned to "quickly" change these out 1:1 then realized when I pulled the first bolt out that I had stripped the holes out and had to put a nut on the other end of the bolts on 2 of the sides.. so I pulled the whole manifold and turbo out which came out way faster than I thought I could do it.
I have another hotside that is perfect, no cracks, no stripped studs or holes or anything I am antiseizing the crap out of everything going into this thing to keep it that way.
I hope that this will also fix my boost issue. I did not see any evidence of an exhaust leak anywhere but that doesn't mean there hasn't been, hopefully tonight I can get everything buttoned back up and I'll report back if that fixed my problem (I don't think it will). An Evo in its natural state.
Well I got the car buttoned back up last night, replaced the alternator with a brand new OEM one, its charging properly now but I still have a "whizz" noise coming from the front right that goes up with RPM so Im worried its the timing belt being eaten up or something, the accessory belt looks fine. I don't see anything touching any pulleys or anything.
My hotside did not fix my boost problem but it did give me an audible exhaust leak, yay. I think it is leaking at the downpipe collector though since theres virtually nothing between the o2 housing and the downpipe in the way of a gasket. The car did not want to idle on first start up either. I had to bump the IAC duty way up to get it to idle right which was weird but then it was fine.
Im not sure why I would have had to bump it up so much, when I parked it last weekend it was running fine other than low voltage (12.6 -12.7v)
Im at a loss, I guess I'll do a compression check since I haven't done one since I got this engine together and see if maybe its just low compression and boost is blowing by the pistons. That's the only other thing I can think of that would cause me to not be able to build boost.
Well I got the car buttoned back up last night, replaced the alternator with a brand new OEM one, its charging properly now but I still have a "whizz" noise coming from the front right that goes up with RPM so Im worried its the timing belt being eaten up or something, the accessory belt looks fine. I don't see anything touching any pulleys or anything.
My hotside did not fix my boost problem but it did give me an audible exhaust leak, yay. I think it is leaking at the downpipe collector though since theres virtually nothing between the o2 housing and the downpipe in the way of a gasket. The car did not want to idle on first start up either. I had to bump the IAC duty way up to get it to idle right which was weird but then it was fine.
Im not sure why I would have had to bump it up so much, when I parked it last weekend it was running fine other than low voltage (12.6 -12.7v)
Im at a loss, I guess I'll do a compression check since I haven't done one since I got this engine together and see if maybe its just low compression and boost is blowing by the pistons. That's the only other thing I can think of that would cause me to not be able to build boost.
First of all thumbs up for being so committed to the problem solving.
Can you check your old logs with the new one when it didnt had this boost problem ?
Compare your STFT. Down pipe leak, Did you install the o-ring at the bov flange ?
Check for actuator rod and wastegate flapper..
I was able to boost leak test with my dad's compressor last night (much bigger than mine) and it held 20 psi for about a minute before leaking down, I'd say that is pretty great pressure retention. The throttle body shaft leaks a little bit and I needed to zip tie my bov boost line, other than that to nothing leaks. Definitely not the cause of my low boost.
At this point I suspect either my boost solenoid went bad from old engine to new or the turbo is broken somehow, though the wheel springs freely and has 0 in out shaft play
Dec 29, 2016, 10:19 PM
