When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I can't BELIEVE how much easiler this simple device made setting timing belt! I got it with 2 tries and it took less than 1 minute because I saw the oil sprocket was off 1 tooth right away. Turn the engine over to line up timing again waited 30 minutes and pin slides in an out like butter. I highly recommend one if these!
There are lots of great info on installating timing belts online. I just want to give recommendations to help reduce chances of errors.
1) set crank at 90° before TDC so your pistons give your valves as much clearance as possible.
2) install head and torque studs down (if any of the valve springs get in the way if stud washers, do not force it in, take out the stud and install washer first and thread stud through washer and mounting hole. Forcing washer in can damage spring and you don't want that!).
3) install lifters (make sure they are bled).
4) install rockers.
5) install cams (without cam gears).
6) install cam gear oil rings and use oil gasket glue around outside edge that touches cam cap and head.
6) install cam gears.
7) install cam sensor housing(s) with oil gasket glue.
8) install HLA
9) install valve cover
10) install cams lock (see picture above) with both set at timing makes.
11) NOW turn crank to TDC (DO NOT do this until cam gears are locked on timing marks) and make sure oil sprocket is in correct cycle.
12) install timing belt.
13) use torque wrench and tool to find position of where 31#-in is and lock that bearing in place. I did this separately because I didn't have room to hold torque wrench in place while locking bearing. Also, you need to have a torque wrench that clicks at preset in both directions. I found out that my new digital torque wrench only worked clockwise, so I pull out my old one that worked in both directions (SO happy I didn't sell this!).
14) verify the grenade pin slides freely. Release timing belt tool holding tensioner compressed and pull off the timing gears lock (which should easily slide out). Turn crank 6 revs and check pin. Turn 6 more revs and take a long break. Recheck pin still slides smoothly. If it doesn't, redo #13 (don't forget to reinstall cam gears lock first!).
15) install lower timing belt cover. Do yourself a favor and figure out which bolt goes where and set those bolts in order on ground BEFORE putting cover in place.
16) Install idler pulley next to AC pump. If you forget this, you will have to drop your engine again to install.
17) use block of wood and jack to raise engine to install engine mount.
18) install water pump pulley, serpentine belt tensioner, and crank pulley.
19) install top timing belt cover and serpentine belt.
20) install everything above valve cover, intake pipes, and battery.
21) pray that engine will run and try to start engine.
Hopefully, it will fire up with base tune for these new FIC1650 injectors Tuesday. Until then, I'm waiting for FP oil line turbo feed from oil filter housing since I broke my banjo bolt and don't want to spend $20 for a new bolt. That $20 went towards the oil line (which didn't make much of a dent in savings). Lol
Update: engine runs. But I can't find my 4 crank pulley bolts. Guess I'll need to search tomorrow when there's more light. I know it's in a ziplock bag.
Update 2 hours later: I found them!
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Jun 14, 2018 at 01:41 AM.
Jun 3, 2018, 01:42 PM
