Super 94 Dyno results 973whp/659wtq
#17
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Very nice! I love the fact you are still on the stock intake and TB. I'm trying to break the 1000hp mark also using the stock intake/TB. Is the fuel rail also stock? I'm also on a double pumper setup and was looking into the 450 for more fuel. After looking at some flow data I noticed that the 450 really is more for lower pressure high volume. A 255hp vs. 450 @ 95psi are about the same flow. It appears that a DW300 will actually flow more than a 450 above 40lbs of boost. Also I would run 12ga. Wire from the factory fuel pump relay for the primary pump. I would love to see a double pumper eclipse the 1000hp mark, good luck.
Do you have a build details link? Awsome street build!
Cheers Steveo
Do you have a build details link? Awsome street build!
Cheers Steveo
#18
Evolved Member
I have remote tuned a few 6870 cars over the 1000whp mark on dual 450's and E90. Although these setups used an additional 1500-2000cc of methanol on top to make it happen safely. The dual 450 will do 1000 but to keep duty cycles in the safe zone, I opted to use meth on top and it worked amazing. ~50-55psi on a 2.3l stroker, stock ecu.
#19
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Awsome thank you for sharing that info! Stock ECU wholly sh1tsticks that's killer! You are one of the few! What are your thoughts on the 6870 vs the super94/99? My friend has a 6870 vband .96 a/r do you have any experience with that hotside? Just picking yer brain if you don't mind.
I feel the 6870 would perform very well in that .96ar. open volute. The 6870 likes a large turbine housing. It spools well for its size. Too small of a housing will get the 6870 to spool incredibly fast but power will fall off quickly in the higher rpm range (8k++)
#23
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
#24
#27
Evolved Member
Do you have the F90000267 or the F90000274? Both are "450lph" pumps but the 267 has a lower rated pressure relief valve and some people run into issues with them when running high enough boost + base pressure as the PRV starts kicking in as the rail pressure starts getting up ~90psi...
#28
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Hello everyone! I don't come around here very much as I have moved on from the Evo game but I did want to clarify a few things as I am seeing some misconceptions.
1. This car is currently for sale and still running, Though I'm sure the motor is tired after 3 years and over 10k miles. I have seen it posted online. I do not and have not spoken with or seen the owner in quite some time.
2. The block is a full WET block with an o-ringed head and standard ARP 625 studs with Cosworth Headgasket. and OEM mitsu "Stubby" balance shaft delete
3. The fuel system is indeed 1 Wally 450 (High Pressure) with 1 255 (high pressure) Base Fuel PSI @50psi (fuel basket removed) STOCK METAL fuel line
4. OEM ported Intake Manifold
5. Hand ported Head with ferrera valves, springs and retainers (single beehive springs)
6. Kelford 288 Cams
7. Hyundai Elantra "big bore" lifters (yup, you can pull them from scrap yard and you got "3g lifters"
8. Scrap yard 2.4L block from a 01 Galant filled with Manley I-beam rods and Wiseco HD pistons, Manley standard 88mm crank 10.5:1
9. JDL FF Hot Parts Kit / 3" downpipe to 3.5" exhaust with 2 mufflers
10. Super 94HTZ Turbo .82 A/R turbine Vband
11. AEM EMS
12. FIC 2150cc Injectors and NO METH I repeat NO METH
13. Magnus Fuel rail with -6an only from OEM Metal disconnect near lower firewall with inline -6an fuel filter
14. IGNITE E90 fuel
15. 2.5" Intercooler piping with Large FMIC
16. Full spool on street ~5500rpm, very responsive
17. 46psi
18. STOCK throttle body unported
19. Exedy Triple with DAN BUSCHUR Trans Stage II
20. Stance coils with Hoosier radials (1.4 60')
21. Sparktech CDI plug and play, BR8EIX Plugs gapped at .015
I think that about sums it up. Don't be fooled into thinking bigger is better and shiny parts = more power. I have seen too many shops advertising that you "need" this or "need that" to make XXXwhp. It's simply not the case. a 2.5" intercooler pipe to a 3" throttle body will just give you better throttle response, thats about it.
3" intercooler piping makes your turbo laggy.
Fancy Intake manifolds make your turbo laggy and unresponsive.
If you want less than 1000whp, this is all you will need. Period.
The proof is in the pudding! Don't be fooled or scammed into buying parts you simply do not need!
I hope this helps others who are trying to build an Evo on a budget.
Have fun and stay boostin'
1. This car is currently for sale and still running, Though I'm sure the motor is tired after 3 years and over 10k miles. I have seen it posted online. I do not and have not spoken with or seen the owner in quite some time.
2. The block is a full WET block with an o-ringed head and standard ARP 625 studs with Cosworth Headgasket. and OEM mitsu "Stubby" balance shaft delete
3. The fuel system is indeed 1 Wally 450 (High Pressure) with 1 255 (high pressure) Base Fuel PSI @50psi (fuel basket removed) STOCK METAL fuel line
4. OEM ported Intake Manifold
5. Hand ported Head with ferrera valves, springs and retainers (single beehive springs)
6. Kelford 288 Cams
7. Hyundai Elantra "big bore" lifters (yup, you can pull them from scrap yard and you got "3g lifters"
8. Scrap yard 2.4L block from a 01 Galant filled with Manley I-beam rods and Wiseco HD pistons, Manley standard 88mm crank 10.5:1
9. JDL FF Hot Parts Kit / 3" downpipe to 3.5" exhaust with 2 mufflers
10. Super 94HTZ Turbo .82 A/R turbine Vband
11. AEM EMS
12. FIC 2150cc Injectors and NO METH I repeat NO METH
13. Magnus Fuel rail with -6an only from OEM Metal disconnect near lower firewall with inline -6an fuel filter
14. IGNITE E90 fuel
15. 2.5" Intercooler piping with Large FMIC
16. Full spool on street ~5500rpm, very responsive
17. 46psi
18. STOCK throttle body unported
19. Exedy Triple with DAN BUSCHUR Trans Stage II
20. Stance coils with Hoosier radials (1.4 60')
21. Sparktech CDI plug and play, BR8EIX Plugs gapped at .015
I think that about sums it up. Don't be fooled into thinking bigger is better and shiny parts = more power. I have seen too many shops advertising that you "need" this or "need that" to make XXXwhp. It's simply not the case. a 2.5" intercooler pipe to a 3" throttle body will just give you better throttle response, thats about it.
3" intercooler piping makes your turbo laggy.
Fancy Intake manifolds make your turbo laggy and unresponsive.
If you want less than 1000whp, this is all you will need. Period.
The proof is in the pudding! Don't be fooled or scammed into buying parts you simply do not need!
I hope this helps others who are trying to build an Evo on a budget.
Have fun and stay boostin'
Last edited by SiriusEvo; Mar 12, 2018 at 10:39 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by SiriusEvo:
2winscroll (May 23, 2018),
badev0 (Mar 13, 2018)
#29
Hello everyone! I don't come around here very much as I have moved on from the Evo game but I did want to clarify a few things as I am seeing some misconceptions.
1. This car is currently for sale and still running, Though I'm sure the motor is tired after 3 years and over 10k miles. I have seen it posted online. I do not and have not spoken with or seen the owner in quite some time.
2. The block is a full WET block with an o-ringed head and standard ARP 625 studs with Cosworth Headgasket. and OEM mitsu "Stubby" balance shaft delete
3. The fuel system is indeed 1 Wally 450 (High Pressure) with 1 255 (high pressure) Base Fuel PSI @50psi (fuel basket removed) STOCK METAL fuel line
4. OEM ported Intake Manifold
5. Hand ported Head with ferrera valves, springs and retainers (single beehive springs)
6. Kelford 288 Cams
7. Hyundai Elantra "big bore" lifters (yup, you can pull them from scrap yard and you got "3g lifters"
8. Scrap yard 2.4L block from a 01 Galant filled with Manley I-beam rods and Wiseco HD pistons, Manley standard 88mm crank 10.5:1
9. JDL FF Hot Parts Kit / 3" downpipe to 3.5" exhaust with 2 mufflers
10. Super 94HTZ Turbo .82 A/R turbine Vband
11. AEM EMS
12. FIC 2150cc Injectors and NO METH I repeat NO METH
13. Magnus Fuel rail with -6an only from OEM Metal disconnect near lower firewall with inline -6an fuel filter
14. IGNITE E90 fuel
15. 2.5" Intercooler piping with Large FMIC
16. Full spool on street ~5500rpm, very responsive
17. 46psi
18. STOCK throttle body unported
19. Exedy Triple with DAN BUSCHUR Trans Stage II
20. Stance coils with Hoosier radials (1.4 60')
21. Sparktech CDI plug and play, BR8EIX Plugs gapped at .015
I think that about sums it up. Don't be fooled into thinking bigger is better and shiny parts = more power. I have seen too many shops advertising that you "need" this or "need that" to make XXXwhp. It's simply not the case. a 2.5" intercooler pipe to a 3" throttle body will just give you better throttle response, thats about it.
3" intercooler piping makes your turbo laggy.
Fancy Intake manifolds make your turbo laggy and unresponsive.
If you want less than 1000whp, this is all you will need. Period.
The proof is in the pudding! Don't be fooled or scammed into buying parts you simply do not need!
I hope this helps others who are trying to build an Evo on a budget.
Have fun and stay boostin'
1. This car is currently for sale and still running, Though I'm sure the motor is tired after 3 years and over 10k miles. I have seen it posted online. I do not and have not spoken with or seen the owner in quite some time.
2. The block is a full WET block with an o-ringed head and standard ARP 625 studs with Cosworth Headgasket. and OEM mitsu "Stubby" balance shaft delete
3. The fuel system is indeed 1 Wally 450 (High Pressure) with 1 255 (high pressure) Base Fuel PSI @50psi (fuel basket removed) STOCK METAL fuel line
4. OEM ported Intake Manifold
5. Hand ported Head with ferrera valves, springs and retainers (single beehive springs)
6. Kelford 288 Cams
7. Hyundai Elantra "big bore" lifters (yup, you can pull them from scrap yard and you got "3g lifters"
8. Scrap yard 2.4L block from a 01 Galant filled with Manley I-beam rods and Wiseco HD pistons, Manley standard 88mm crank 10.5:1
9. JDL FF Hot Parts Kit / 3" downpipe to 3.5" exhaust with 2 mufflers
10. Super 94HTZ Turbo .82 A/R turbine Vband
11. AEM EMS
12. FIC 2150cc Injectors and NO METH I repeat NO METH
13. Magnus Fuel rail with -6an only from OEM Metal disconnect near lower firewall with inline -6an fuel filter
14. IGNITE E90 fuel
15. 2.5" Intercooler piping with Large FMIC
16. Full spool on street ~5500rpm, very responsive
17. 46psi
18. STOCK throttle body unported
19. Exedy Triple with DAN BUSCHUR Trans Stage II
20. Stance coils with Hoosier radials (1.4 60')
21. Sparktech CDI plug and play, BR8EIX Plugs gapped at .015
I think that about sums it up. Don't be fooled into thinking bigger is better and shiny parts = more power. I have seen too many shops advertising that you "need" this or "need that" to make XXXwhp. It's simply not the case. a 2.5" intercooler pipe to a 3" throttle body will just give you better throttle response, thats about it.
3" intercooler piping makes your turbo laggy.
Fancy Intake manifolds make your turbo laggy and unresponsive.
If you want less than 1000whp, this is all you will need. Period.
The proof is in the pudding! Don't be fooled or scammed into buying parts you simply do not need!
I hope this helps others who are trying to build an Evo on a budget.
Have fun and stay boostin'
Good to see your still alive
Pat K
#30
Newbie
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Warren, MI
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Hello everyone! I don't come around here very much as I have moved on from the Evo game but I did want to clarify a few things as I am seeing some misconceptions.
1. This car is currently for sale and still running, Though I'm sure the motor is tired after 3 years and over 10k miles. I have seen it posted online. I do not and have not spoken with or seen the owner in quite some time.
2. The block is a full WET block with an o-ringed head and standard ARP 625 studs with Cosworth Headgasket. and OEM mitsu "Stubby" balance shaft delete
3. The fuel system is indeed 1 Wally 450 (High Pressure) with 1 255 (high pressure) Base Fuel PSI @50psi (fuel basket removed) STOCK METAL fuel line
4. OEM ported Intake Manifold
5. Hand ported Head with ferrera valves, springs and retainers (single beehive springs)
6. Kelford 288 Cams
7. Hyundai Elantra "big bore" lifters (yup, you can pull them from scrap yard and you got "3g lifters"
8. Scrap yard 2.4L block from a 01 Galant filled with Manley I-beam rods and Wiseco HD pistons, Manley standard 88mm crank 10.5:1
9. JDL FF Hot Parts Kit / 3" downpipe to 3.5" exhaust with 2 mufflers
10. Super 94HTZ Turbo .82 A/R turbine Vband
11. AEM EMS
12. FIC 2150cc Injectors and NO METH I repeat NO METH
13. Magnus Fuel rail with -6an only from OEM Metal disconnect near lower firewall with inline -6an fuel filter
14. IGNITE E90 fuel
15. 2.5" Intercooler piping with Large FMIC
16. Full spool on street ~5500rpm, very responsive
17. 46psi
18. STOCK throttle body unported
19. Exedy Triple with DAN BUSCHUR Trans Stage II
20. Stance coils with Hoosier radials (1.4 60')
21. Sparktech CDI plug and play, BR8EIX Plugs gapped at .015
I think that about sums it up. Don't be fooled into thinking bigger is better and shiny parts = more power. I have seen too many shops advertising that you "need" this or "need that" to make XXXwhp. It's simply not the case. a 2.5" intercooler pipe to a 3" throttle body will just give you better throttle response, thats about it.
3" intercooler piping makes your turbo laggy.
Fancy Intake manifolds make your turbo laggy and unresponsive.
If you want less than 1000whp, this is all you will need. Period.
The proof is in the pudding! Don't be fooled or scammed into buying parts you simply do not need!
I hope this helps others who are trying to build an Evo on a budget.
Have fun and stay boostin'
1. This car is currently for sale and still running, Though I'm sure the motor is tired after 3 years and over 10k miles. I have seen it posted online. I do not and have not spoken with or seen the owner in quite some time.
2. The block is a full WET block with an o-ringed head and standard ARP 625 studs with Cosworth Headgasket. and OEM mitsu "Stubby" balance shaft delete
3. The fuel system is indeed 1 Wally 450 (High Pressure) with 1 255 (high pressure) Base Fuel PSI @50psi (fuel basket removed) STOCK METAL fuel line
4. OEM ported Intake Manifold
5. Hand ported Head with ferrera valves, springs and retainers (single beehive springs)
6. Kelford 288 Cams
7. Hyundai Elantra "big bore" lifters (yup, you can pull them from scrap yard and you got "3g lifters"
8. Scrap yard 2.4L block from a 01 Galant filled with Manley I-beam rods and Wiseco HD pistons, Manley standard 88mm crank 10.5:1
9. JDL FF Hot Parts Kit / 3" downpipe to 3.5" exhaust with 2 mufflers
10. Super 94HTZ Turbo .82 A/R turbine Vband
11. AEM EMS
12. FIC 2150cc Injectors and NO METH I repeat NO METH
13. Magnus Fuel rail with -6an only from OEM Metal disconnect near lower firewall with inline -6an fuel filter
14. IGNITE E90 fuel
15. 2.5" Intercooler piping with Large FMIC
16. Full spool on street ~5500rpm, very responsive
17. 46psi
18. STOCK throttle body unported
19. Exedy Triple with DAN BUSCHUR Trans Stage II
20. Stance coils with Hoosier radials (1.4 60')
21. Sparktech CDI plug and play, BR8EIX Plugs gapped at .015
I think that about sums it up. Don't be fooled into thinking bigger is better and shiny parts = more power. I have seen too many shops advertising that you "need" this or "need that" to make XXXwhp. It's simply not the case. a 2.5" intercooler pipe to a 3" throttle body will just give you better throttle response, thats about it.
3" intercooler piping makes your turbo laggy.
Fancy Intake manifolds make your turbo laggy and unresponsive.
If you want less than 1000whp, this is all you will need. Period.
The proof is in the pudding! Don't be fooled or scammed into buying parts you simply do not need!
I hope this helps others who are trying to build an Evo on a budget.
Have fun and stay boostin'
Great information you posted Hope all is well homie Car is still around and won't be sold .Lol hit me up sometime bro...