FP 71HTA / S2's / E85 / 459 & 402 @ 24PSI / RRE "Sam" Tuned
Feb 9, 2018, 07:09 AM
#47
I'm not looking for 500whp. My car is also on a diet and will only weigh around 2,750lbs when I am done. I'm only shooting for roughly 425whp with close to that in torque as well. I am also not looking to rev any higher than 7,500rpm either. If I want more, I will swap them out for S2's or equivalent. I just want a fun, reliable setup that I can get into everyday if I wanted to and just have fun with it.
Feb 9, 2018, 07:58 AM
#48
This is what my engine sound like. Lumpier when cold, but you can still hear it's slightly lumpy.
https://youtu.be/PHvaKO3lQv0
https://youtu.be/PHvaKO3lQv0
Feb 9, 2018, 08:23 AM
#49
When I first started my car, it took 5 minutes for valve ticks to go away. I guess it hydraulic lifters only take in a small amount of oil with each pump. Another noise I noticed was timing belt was a bit over tight. That also went away as belt stretched. I may have a hydraulic lifter the isn't full of oil to where it should be. Or maybe it's an injector or two making noises. I just don't know about all these noises. I do feel that the S2 cams make it harder to idle and the extra vibrations causes engine bay to have other sounds due to movement...like walking around in creaking old houses.
By the way, did you also upgrade your head studs while your head was off? And HLA Pressure Regulator for insurance?
By the way, did you also upgrade your head studs while your head was off? And HLA Pressure Regulator for insurance?
Feb 9, 2018, 08:30 AM
#50
I've thought about lightening my gsr but every item is 5-10 pounds of weight saving...spoiler, rear windshield wiper and motor, insulation material, undercar coating, etc...and with each, I decide to keep since it's so little weight savings.
If your car is light, mild cams will work great because you have better low end power. HTA 71 will be perfect for you. 425 whp is easily achievable with max torque hitting around 3500-4000 rpm, depending on your exhaust setup.
If your car is light, mild cams will work great because you have better low end power. HTA 71 will be perfect for you. 425 whp is easily achievable with max torque hitting around 3500-4000 rpm, depending on your exhaust setup.
I'm not looking for 500whp. My car is also on a diet and will only weigh around 2,750lbs when I am done. I'm only shooting for roughly 425whp with close to that in torque as well. I am also not looking to rev any higher than 7,500rpm either. If I want more, I will swap them out for S2's or equivalent. I just want a fun, reliable setup that I can get into everyday if I wanted to and just have fun with it.
Feb 9, 2018, 08:31 AM
#51
By the way, did you also upgrade your head studs while your head was off? And HLA Pressure Regulator for insurance?[/QUOTE]
Lol
Yes, ARP's are in there. Ive seen that Kiggly part. RRE did not recommend, otherwise, I would likely have added that
Hey, they filled my engine w/ Redline 15W50? I asked Mike & Gus about that & they said they fill all 4G63's w/that heavier oil
Lol
Yes, ARP's are in there. Ive seen that Kiggly part. RRE did not recommend, otherwise, I would likely have added that
Hey, they filled my engine w/ Redline 15W50? I asked Mike & Gus about that & they said they fill all 4G63's w/that heavier oil
Last edited by MinusPrevious; Feb 9, 2018 at 09:34 AM.
Feb 9, 2018, 09:11 AM
#52
Sounds like a good idea. I've mostly stuck with thinner oils for cooler season and thicker for warmer, but the thickest I've used are 10W40. But I don't track my car, so I don't think I need it that thick. Since your car is making more power with less boost, I would think it is maxing out on timing and mivec to get the most out of the fuel. Thicker oil is a good idea for your car. Just let it warm up before driving.
Personally, I've always used Lucas additive in my engine to make sure oil sticks to engine. Lately, I've also added Zinc additive to protect turbo since I'm pushing my HTA 71 pass it's happy boost of 24 psi. Going over 24 psi, this turbo starts heating up fast and extra protection makes sense.
Personally, I've always used Lucas additive in my engine to make sure oil sticks to engine. Lately, I've also added Zinc additive to protect turbo since I'm pushing my HTA 71 pass it's happy boost of 24 psi. Going over 24 psi, this turbo starts heating up fast and extra protection makes sense.
Feb 9, 2018, 09:27 AM
#53
I've thought about lightening my gsr but every item is 5-10 pounds of weight saving...spoiler, rear windshield wiper and motor, insulation material, undercar coating, etc...and with each, I decide to keep since it's so little weight savings.
If your car is light, mild cams will work great because you have better low end power. HTA 71 will be perfect for you. 425 whp is easily achievable with max torque hitting around 3500-4000 rpm, depending on your exhaust setup.
If your car is light, mild cams will work great because you have better low end power. HTA 71 will be perfect for you. 425 whp is easily achievable with max torque hitting around 3500-4000 rpm, depending on your exhaust setup.
Feb 9, 2018, 10:53 AM
#55
Sounds like a good idea. I've mostly stuck with thinner oils for cooler season and thicker for warmer, but the thickest I've used are 10W40. But I don't track my car, so I don't think I need it that thick. Since your car is making more power with less boost, I would think it is maxing out on timing and mivec to get the most out of the fuel. Thicker oil is a good idea for your car. Just let it warm up before driving.
Personally, I've always used Lucas additive in my engine to make sure oil sticks to engine. Lately, I've also added Zinc additive to protect turbo since I'm pushing my HTA 71 pass it's happy boost of 24 psi. Going over 24 psi, this turbo starts heating up fast and extra protection makes sense.
Personally, I've always used Lucas additive in my engine to make sure oil sticks to engine. Lately, I've also added Zinc additive to protect turbo since I'm pushing my HTA 71 pass it's happy boost of 24 psi. Going over 24 psi, this turbo starts heating up fast and extra protection makes sense.
Feb 9, 2018, 11:10 AM
#56
I read somewhere that boosting over 24psi starts to make more heat than usual. That sounds like it's starting to lose efficiency after that. If he's tracking his car, each pull will start heating his engine bay up. 24 psi is a great boost for him where it soundslike is best trade-off power to heat generation.
This is my thinking, assuming the guy testing the boost temps did it right. I don't recall if temps were measured at turbo exhaust, turbo intake, or intake manifold (which is affected by intercooler). Take it with a grain of salt.
This is my thinking, assuming the guy testing the boost temps did it right. I don't recall if temps were measured at turbo exhaust, turbo intake, or intake manifold (which is affected by intercooler). Take it with a grain of salt.