Post exact weights of weight reduction you have done!
#451
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here is a tricky question... how much weight savings would a firewall forward tube frame create? also how much weight would be saved by reducing the wheelbase like the Norris Design SWB Evo Coupe? got to be worth several hundred pounds combined? A sub 2000 lb Evo?
#452
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I just know you where going to make that comment about AMS but i didnt want to say anything.
AMS trunk i believe has no what so every supports really like the robi spec one. so there is flex when getting up to speeds but the AMS drag car. and good CF can flex some thats why so nice.
AMS trunk i believe has no what so every supports really like the robi spec one. so there is flex when getting up to speeds but the AMS drag car. and good CF can flex some thats why so nice.
Fiber Images is the builder, and they have different specs available. I'm using the lightest stuff they offer that still has inner support. Its stupid light though...one layer of CF on the outside, and very light inner fiberglass bracing. If you hold it up to a light, you can sort of see through it, but on the car, you'd be hard pressed to say it looks any different from any other wet lay CF hood. Fit and finish are pretty damn good.
I use hood pins on the hood, and stock swing mounts & terry springs on the rear. I've had my car up to 148mph racing on dirt, and all the parts are still firmly attached.
Dave
#453
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I removed everything in my trunk including windsheild washer fluid/wingless/BR exhaust/no radio or speakers/no door trim/no rear seats/removed AC units/balancing shaft delete/small radiator/removed water sprayer/no carpet in the back/no center console or glove box/removed rear seat belts/removed crash bar/small battery/removed rear door window motors/no strut tower brace/no under tray and no interior trim except dash components. I also have 15.5lbs rims. What else can I remove? the sole purpose of my car is to go fast. I plan to remove back door crash beams. How do you remove sound deadening material from under rear seats?
I believe Im around 2932lbs car alone. Going to weigh soon.
I believe Im around 2932lbs car alone. Going to weigh soon.
#455
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I removed everything in my trunk including windsheild washer fluid/wingless/BR exhaust/no radio or speakers/no door trim/no rear seats/removed AC units/balancing shaft delete/small radiator/removed water sprayer/no carpet in the back/no center console or glove box/removed rear seat belts/removed crash bar/small battery/removed rear door window motors/no strut tower brace/no under tray and no interior trim except dash components. I also have 15.5lbs rims. What else can I remove? the sole purpose of my car is to go fast. I plan to remove back door crash beams. How do you remove sound deadening material from under rear seats?
I believe Im around 2932lbs car alone. Going to weigh soon.
I believe Im around 2932lbs car alone. Going to weigh soon.
Put your front undertray back on, without it air gets under the engine bay and creates a serious lifting effect and turbulence, not too mention its not saving that much weight.
You can replace your seats, this will save a TON of weight. Remove the carpet, plastic trim, ect.. A pic would help out. removing the heater core and blower from behind the dash is a good step, saves a bit of weight in the middle of the car.
Post up some pics and we can give you better answers
#456
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xcelr8, your car is lighter than you expecting, my car is lighter than that and has most of what you removed from yours and heavier wheels.
We had the light weight Robi Spec hood on the Time Attack car and got black flagged about 3 times in one day because of the bow in the center of it at high speed. I think Modified did a feature on the car and in the pictures you can see a black "stripe" down the hood seam, it's duct tape to keep the hood down in the center so we wouldn't keep getting thrown off the track. It was very thin and light. The hood I later bought from Robi that was on my RS was a little bit more rigid.
I've seen one carbon fiber product that was nice enough, rigid enough and light enough to use, it is the trunk/hood on the old Sparco EVO. It's SUPER expensive and isn't made anymore. I think Gurney made it at one time. It's amazing. I tried to get them to make it again but they had sold the molds. I also tried to buy it off the Sparco car.
A few weeks ago there was someone else at the shop with the same "look" on the hood and I believe they said it was a part they bought from AMS, dry carbon and it seemed nearly as rigid and light as the Sparco EVO's parts.
We had the light weight Robi Spec hood on the Time Attack car and got black flagged about 3 times in one day because of the bow in the center of it at high speed. I think Modified did a feature on the car and in the pictures you can see a black "stripe" down the hood seam, it's duct tape to keep the hood down in the center so we wouldn't keep getting thrown off the track. It was very thin and light. The hood I later bought from Robi that was on my RS was a little bit more rigid.
I've seen one carbon fiber product that was nice enough, rigid enough and light enough to use, it is the trunk/hood on the old Sparco EVO. It's SUPER expensive and isn't made anymore. I think Gurney made it at one time. It's amazing. I tried to get them to make it again but they had sold the molds. I also tried to buy it off the Sparco car.
A few weeks ago there was someone else at the shop with the same "look" on the hood and I believe they said it was a part they bought from AMS, dry carbon and it seemed nearly as rigid and light as the Sparco EVO's parts.
#457
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Mitsokid, Im only removing the rear crash beams because No one will ever be in the back. Ill prolly get a cage next winter.
Dave, The carbon fiber hood I have is 2.5lbs lighter than stock hood. forgot to mention.
Dave, The carbon fiber hood I have is 2.5lbs lighter than stock hood. forgot to mention.
#458
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First of all I hope to god your running a roll cage. Removing door crash beams is a death sentence if you do not have the proper safety equipment and you find yourself rolling or hitting a wall or something.
Put your front undertray back on, without it air gets under the engine bay and creates a serious lifting effect and turbulence, not too mention its not saving that much weight.
You can replace your seats, this will save a TON of weight. Remove the carpet, plastic trim, ect.. A pic would help out. removing the heater core and blower from behind the dash is a good step, saves a bit of weight in the middle of the car.
Post up some pics and we can give you better answers
Put your front undertray back on, without it air gets under the engine bay and creates a serious lifting effect and turbulence, not too mention its not saving that much weight.
You can replace your seats, this will save a TON of weight. Remove the carpet, plastic trim, ect.. A pic would help out. removing the heater core and blower from behind the dash is a good step, saves a bit of weight in the middle of the car.
Post up some pics and we can give you better answers
But, deff a good idea to put one on!
Wondering do you think it makes your traps higher or lower? more drag or less drag?
Maybe dave can answer that one. If makes car lighter on the speed then it would be better for drag. but could get hairy up top on a 160mph trap car.
#461
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good luck man
#462
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the front undertray stops a turbulence that builds up under the car from the air flowing up and into the engine bay. So theoretically it should help your speeds, I know you can feel a difference on a road course in turns, not so sure about a drag application though. You should give it a try and give us the results.
Generally the more streamlined you make the car, with no open areas to create turbulence, the faster you will trap
Generally the more streamlined you make the car, with no open areas to create turbulence, the faster you will trap
#463
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my evo8 is still stock except apr widebody and would like to upgrade my wheel combo to 18x9.5 or up to 10.5. i read somewhere that the stock wheel combo (enkei and advan) weighs about 44lbs without the lug nuts. what wheel combo would have the same weight or will even be lighter than stock? pls advise.
#464
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my evo8 is still stock except apr widebody and would like to upgrade my wheel combo to 18x9.5 or up to 10.5. i read somewhere that the stock wheel combo (enkei and advan) weighs about 44lbs without the lug nuts. what wheel combo would have the same weight or will even be lighter than stock? pls advise.
Rota DPT (Volk CE28N copy) 18” x 9.5” wheels, 35 mm offset w 275/35-18 Nitto NT01 tires (brand new), balancing weights, no center caps – 48.54 lb., 48.54 lb., 48.46 lb., 47.88 lb.
Volk CE28N 18” x 9.5”, 28mm offset, Time Attack finish; w valve stems = 17.97, 17.98, 17.98, 18.08 lb.
Volk CEN28N centercaps, set of 4 = 275 grams/.60 lb, or .15 lb each
Enkei RPF1 28” x 9.5”, 38mm offset; w valve stems (NOTE: you'll need a 15-20mm thick spacer in the front of the Evo to clear the stock Brembo calipers w a +38 offset, due to the design of the RPF1's spokes) = 17.54, 17.54, 17.56, 17.70 lb.
SSR Type C-RS 18” x 9.5”, 22mm offset, anthracite finish; w valve stems = 19.27, 19.28 lb. (I only bought two of them)
Some other lightweight (i.e., under 19.5 lb.) 18" wheel options (I've not weighed these personally):
Weds Sport SA70 (avail. in 18" x 10 +18, +32)
Weds Sport TC105N (manufacturer's claimed weight: 17.6 lb in a 18" x 9.5")
Weds Sport SA67r (available in 18" x 10" +15, +35)
SSR Type F (18" x 9.5" in +12 to +40, manufacturer's claimed weights from 18.6 to 19.6 lb; also available in 18" x 10.5" @ 20.2 lb. AND 18" x 11" @ 20.5 lb)
Volk TE-37 (not a superlight wheel anymore, but still uber-sick/baller IMO)
Volk SE-37K (discontinued, just under 17 lb. each in 18" x 9.5")
The only weights of 18" tires I have are used Falken Azenis, and of Hoosier autox race tires, but you can find approximate weights of tires new on both tirerack.com and discounttiredirect.com:
Falken Azenis RT-615 265/35-18, 4-5/32” tread – 26.02, 26.76, 26.8, 27.14 lb. (manufacturer spec of 28.2 lb new @ 8/32”)
Hoosier A6 255/35-18, approx. 50% tread – 21.29, 21.80, 21.08, 21.49 lb.
For comparison, look how much lighter 17" tires can be:
OEM-spec Yokohama ADVAN 046 235/45-17, 4/16” tread depth left – 22.63 lb., 22.69 lb.
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec 245/40-17, brand new – 25.47, 25.57, 25.60, 25.52 lb.
Kumho MX 245/40-17, brand new – 23.21 lb, 23.53 lb.
Falken Azenis RT-615 255/40-17, brand new – 27.06 lb., 27.125 lb., 27.06 lb., 27.19 lb. (manufacturer spec of 26.5 lb new @ 8/32”)
If you're really obsessive about weight, have your brand-new tires shaved (tirerack offers this service)! It'll take a couple pounds off each tire, and if you're going to autocross or attend a track day on them, you'll get better, more even wear on the tread depth that's remaining.