Post exact weights of weight reduction you have done!
Account Disabled
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,784
Likes: 1
From: Clinton, NJ - Myrtle Beach, SC
Haha, which is the better sounding of the 2 horns? From what I can remember there was a horn in the middle behind/above the FMIC & one by the ACD crap...
Dan,
My car doesn't have HID's or foglights from the factory. The only relay I have left is for the horn. I removed one of the two horns to save a little weight. If you remove a horn just make sure to leave the better sounding of the two horns there.
I will be removing the fan fuse's/relay from the fuse box this weekend. I will be using an aftermarket relay to control my fan via AEM. I forgot to do that last time I was messing with it.
Yours looks good so far!
My car doesn't have HID's or foglights from the factory. The only relay I have left is for the horn. I removed one of the two horns to save a little weight. If you remove a horn just make sure to leave the better sounding of the two horns there.
I will be removing the fan fuse's/relay from the fuse box this weekend. I will be using an aftermarket relay to control my fan via AEM. I forgot to do that last time I was messing with it.
Yours looks good so far!
as for the fan i still use the stock ecu mated to the FCon. so ill just leave all that alone.
thanks again.
i got the harness 90% back together. it looks cleaner but i do not think i saved much. if anything its just easier to work on if i ever have to.
i want to pull my bar back out haha. he has nearly a hole LB on me.
One sounds like a scooter horn and the other has a deeper more 'normal' sound to it haha. Just unplug one at a time and hit the horn...you'll see haha.
Just keep after it, there are two store sacks worth of wire to be removed.
Ha, really there is 1 sack worth of actual removal. The second sack is wire I've replaced with TEFZEL wire. There is a ton of stuff you can eliminate with a few changes in layout though. For one, once you pull the unused wire out, a lot of those jumpers are half empty and they can easily be eliminated. That helps greatly in cleaning up visually as those jumpers are fairly bulky and have a ton of wire going to them that can be streamlined into one inline joint that can be completely hidden in the harness.
There are like 4-5 connectors at the doors. I've reduced this down to 2, one going into the door, the second going to the back of the car on either side.
2-3 connectors to join the engine harness into the dash harness, now the ECU harness is just part of the dash harness with a connector at the firewall.
Here are the relay/junction boxes. I believe there are actually a couple more fuses to still be removed, I've pulled the wire, just need to comb over the fuses. I also eliminated the second relay box on the side of the main relay box. There were originally like 5 relays in there, I had it down to 2 (starter and MFI relays) and I eliminated the starter relay all together (it's only for safety interlock anyway) and put the MFI relay into the main relay box.
If it wasn't for the damn front and ETACS ECUs, I would have just got a 40 circuit universal ATM fuse box and a universal mini relay box and started fresh. Those ECUs add some nice little functions for the lights, windows, wipers, and locks so I decided to keep them.
Ha, really there is 1 sack worth of actual removal. The second sack is wire I've replaced with TEFZEL wire. There is a ton of stuff you can eliminate with a few changes in layout though. For one, once you pull the unused wire out, a lot of those jumpers are half empty and they can easily be eliminated. That helps greatly in cleaning up visually as those jumpers are fairly bulky and have a ton of wire going to them that can be streamlined into one inline joint that can be completely hidden in the harness.
There are like 4-5 connectors at the doors. I've reduced this down to 2, one going into the door, the second going to the back of the car on either side.
2-3 connectors to join the engine harness into the dash harness, now the ECU harness is just part of the dash harness with a connector at the firewall.
Here are the relay/junction boxes. I believe there are actually a couple more fuses to still be removed, I've pulled the wire, just need to comb over the fuses. I also eliminated the second relay box on the side of the main relay box. There were originally like 5 relays in there, I had it down to 2 (starter and MFI relays) and I eliminated the starter relay all together (it's only for safety interlock anyway) and put the MFI relay into the main relay box.
If it wasn't for the damn front and ETACS ECUs, I would have just got a 40 circuit universal ATM fuse box and a universal mini relay box and started fresh. Those ECUs add some nice little functions for the lights, windows, wipers, and locks so I decided to keep them.
Last edited by 03whitegsr; Jan 24, 2012 at 10:36 PM.
Account Disabled
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,784
Likes: 1
From: Clinton, NJ - Myrtle Beach, SC
I also eliminated the second relay box on the side of the main relay box. There were originally like 5 relays in there, I had it down to 2 (starter and MFI relays) and I eliminated the starter relay all together (it's only for safety interlock anyway) and put the MFI relay into the main relay box.
I am doing the same thing. When eliminating the starter relay did you have to jump/modify anything? Or did you just pull the relay and the wiring related to it? I wasn't sure on this one and just left it. I heard it had something to do with one of the clutch switches. I was going to move it into the main fuse box as well but if I can remove it all together that will be even better!
Thanks for the advise!
And why do you still have the yellow ABS related fuse still in your fuse box? I am referring to the big yellow one next to the two fan related fuse/relay?? I removed mine. You don't have ABS correct??
Last edited by StreetThisEvo; Jan 25, 2012 at 06:32 AM.
im thinking about making a new 2012 version of a weight reduction thread called ''weight reduction 101. tricks, tips, parts, and idea's. i do not know though. its a lot of work i think.
anyways i need some help. notice the 20A yellow fuse next to the black relays. on the box it shows its the music note. i would guess that indicates the radio. that fuse has a red/white wire and a big white wire coming off it. that red/white wire is a few feet long going in threw the fender well into the harness on the A piller. on my factory un toughed dash harness there is no wire mating to the same red/white wire on the fender harness. so i removed it but it just does not make sense to me. any help would be great.
anyways i need some help. notice the 20A yellow fuse next to the black relays. on the box it shows its the music note. i would guess that indicates the radio. that fuse has a red/white wire and a big white wire coming off it. that red/white wire is a few feet long going in threw the fender well into the harness on the A piller. on my factory un toughed dash harness there is no wire mating to the same red/white wire on the fender harness. so i removed it but it just does not make sense to me. any help would be great.
Say hello to mechanically separated chicken. It’s what all fast-food chicken is made – things like chicken nuggets and patties. Also, the processed frozen chicken in the stores is made from it.
Basically, the entire chicken is smashed and pressed through a sieve — bones, eyes, guts, and all. it comes out looking like this.
There’s more: because it’s crawling with bacteria, it will be washed with ammonia, soaked in it, actually. Then, because it tastes gross, it will be reflavored artificially. Then, because it is weirdly pink, it will be dyed with artificial color.
