biggie5252

iTrader: (47)

If I remember correctly you can just ground it, which would be the same as wiring it to the ebrake, but full time. I'm thinking of automatics so the ebrake is a better idea.

sadc

Well I connected the blk/wht wire to the ebrake harness that's under my cupholder. When I pull the ebrake I get 0volt. With it's down I get 13volt(I only get voltage if my car is on the "on" position with my key.) I check and everyhing on harness is connected but the hood pin. I didn't connect that to anything.

So I shut my door
Press the foot brake
Pull the ebrake
Release the footbrake
And push the remote start button on my remote. And I get the error again with 7 flashing parking lights

biggie5252

iTrader: (47)

i think the actual e brake wire should switch with the key off. What wire are you using for ebrake?

sadc

i connected it to a harness that goes from the actual ebrake and it cuts right under my cup holder. So I just took out my cup holder and tapped into it. When my car is off I get nothing. But when its in the "on" position i get 0volts when up and 13volts when ebrake down. Am I suppose to tap into something that always reads when the car is even off?

biggie5252

iTrader: (47)

What wire color? I'm not positive that it reads with the car off, I've never tested it like that. If it didn't, I would think you would need to diode isolate the wire to prevent backfeeding (powering) the brake light from the alarm when the car was off.

sadc

Where and what wire did you tap your neutral saftey wire?

johnjonfenomeno

iTrader: (17)

do you have a link to a wiring diagram for your car? 7 blinks indicates the the manual transmission mode is enabled but not initialized. Aside from the e-brake light hooked up, do you have the brake lights hooked up also? That is the brown wire off the 5 pin connector. Also make sure you properly set up the tack learn mode. Your issue lies somewhere in the remote start 5 input connector.. check all those wires..

biggie5252

iTrader: (47)

I just ground neutral safety wire.

Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Blue/Black Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Black/Blue Or Blue/Black Coil Pack 2 Cylinder Setting
Neutral Safety Wire Black/White (-) PCM behind Center Console
Brake Switch Green Brake Switch
Trunk Pin Red/Green Driver's Running Board
Parking Lights Green/White (+) Driver's Kick Panel or Fuse Panel
Head Lamp Red (-) Light Switch
Factory Disarm Red/Green (-) ECU Passenger's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Red/Green (-) Courtesy Light or Driver's Kick Panel
Door Lock Brown (-) Behind Fuse Panel or 20 Pin Connector High Driver's Kick Panel
Door Unlock Brown/White (-)
Driver's Lock Blue/Black Driver's Kick Panel
Driver's Unlock Blue/Red Driver's Kick Panel
Passenger Unlock Blue/Red Passenger's Kick Panel
Horn Wire Green/Red (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Green/Red, RF=Brown/Yellow
Windows Down LF=Green/Black, RF=Green/Yellow

sadc

I made sure I got the brake hooked up right. I got a quick splice and connected it to the brown wire on the 5 pin connector. I am getting voltage to the unit. As for the tach I did


Turn on the car
within 5 sec hold the valet switch
valet light stayed constant
then release


Correct?

sadc

Ok well I have another problem now -_-. Anyways, on the heavy gauge harness. The voilet and green wires are giving live feeds now? Always Constant 10-12volts. Its when I hook up the Red/blk wire on the heavy gauge is when I get that constant. I disconnected everything that had to do with the heavy gauge and just connect the red/blk wire and STILL i get a constant source. It happend during the time I tried to hide my module. Then I started getting a live feed. Only thing different I did before trying to tuck my module is that I took off my RPM. Will that affect anything?

biggie5252

iTrader: (47)

When you went to hide your module did you disconnect the alarm's ground wire or was the main harness disconnected when this happened?

Nevaeh

Sorry for raising the dead here...

I just bought the Viper 5901 System for my 09 Lancer ES. I am understanding that the Engine Immobilzer is equipped with all the Lancers on all the Models. My question is will the pku-mit work with my 09 ES? Or am I stuck with the 556U model that requires a spare key to put in the assembly?? thanks for your time, and your answers!

itzcharlez

iTrader: (4)

question.. is it okay to tap more than one 12v line into the same source? or should i find different ones for each 12v (eg Gauges + Alarm)

biggie5252

iTrader: (47)

I think there's a different bypass for the 08s and up. At any rate, I wouldn't give up the spare key.

edit: Here's what you want: http://www.bypasskit.com/product.asp...UMIT3&catid=2# Note that it's not a pku-mit, but basically an updated version that works with 08+ lancers/evos.

Nevaeh

Thanks a ton, will I need a Dealer Scan tool to program this, or is it pretty safe to program on my own per the instructions. Also anyone have some simple instructions on how to get the steering column off to access the components inside? Thanks for your time

And that is my intentions I do not want to give a key