2 Odyssey PC680s dead in a 2 week span.... coincidence? - EvolutionM - Mitsubishi Lancer and Lancer Evolution Community

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2 Odyssey PC680s dead in a 2 week span.... coincidence?

Old Sep 29, 2018, 10:39 PM
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2 Odyssey PC680s dead in a 2 week span.... coincidence?

Need some help. Iím going to try and keep it short while noting all the important things.

So recently got my evo back from having a built motor swapped in. Tuner had the car. I drove to tuner and we put it on dyno. Car was turned on / off several times throughout the day while on dyno and it never gave an issue. Car made good power so good... I go home. (2 hour drive). Got back into town and stopped at a gas station. Filled it up, then drove home. Got into my driveway and cut it off for a second. 5 minutes later - tried to crank it and itís dead. Doesnít even click.

So I jump it off to pull it in the garage. It jumps fine and stays on - doesnít die.

So i figured maybe itís just time for a new mini battery. (That one was about 2 years old)

new battery comes in about a week later... install it. Fires right up. Great right? Runs great around town for about a week. Today - drove it to work (25 mins). Got to work fine. 8 hour work day. Crank it up to drive back home and fires right up. i get home 25 mins later and did the same thing. Turned it off then came back a few mins later and the same exact thing happened as the first time. Absolutely dead. Doesnít click or anything (but can be jump started)

So now itís in my garage and before I throw another new battery at it I need to figure out whatís causing this.

The only thing (electrical wise) that has changed since the built motor swap was the new fic 2150 injectors that have the adapters... (at least I believe there is some rewiring involved with those)

other electrical components installed include:
-aem oil press, boost, afr gauge
-grimmspeed electronic boost controller
-pioneer aftermarket radio
-spoolin up cop system

and all of those items have been installed for a long time with no issues.

I am looking for help because I hate electrical issues

I donít think itís the alternator because when I jump the car off it runs fine and doesnít die.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
car is an 06 Evo 9 with about 60k miles.
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Old Sep 30, 2018, 01:05 AM
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Charge it up with wall charger. Connect back except use amp meter in series wth chassis ground to see if you have something drawing power when ignition is off. If not, keep meter with you to check again when you shut off each time. If nothing is drawing power, then stop by AutoZone to load test your alternator. Maybe your alternator has a bad diode or 2 preventing it from charging your battery.
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Old Sep 30, 2018, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer View Post
Charge it up with wall charger. Connect back except use amp meter in series wth chassis ground to see if you have something drawing power when ignition is off. If not, keep meter with you to check again when you shut off each time. If nothing is drawing power, then stop by AutoZone to load test your alternator. Maybe your alternator has a bad diode or 2 preventing it from charging your battery.
I agree w/Don. Very unlikely the battery is faulty. Sounds like a battery chassis grounding issue to me.

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Old Oct 1, 2018, 12:37 PM
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Well took the battery to autozone and had it tested and they said itís bad.

So either something drained the battery battery or I was sent a faulty battery from Odyssey. Obviously I feel like something is draining the battery since this happened twice now
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Old Oct 1, 2018, 01:23 PM
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Been running the same model PC680 for 10 years. Only on my 3rd replacement. Trickle charging every few days

But a faulty battery can certainly happen. 2 in one week just doesnt add up for me

Was thinking it was possibly a chassis ground issue?
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Old Oct 1, 2018, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MinusPrevious View Post
Been running the same model PC680 for 10 years. Only on my 3rd replacement. Trickle charging every few days

But a faulty battery can certainly happen. 2 in one week just doesnt add up for me

Was thinking it was a chassis ground issue?
i mean, I inspected all the engine bay chassis grounding points and they visually look good/connected.
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Old Oct 1, 2018, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmurray View Post


i mean, I inspected all the engine bay chassis grounding points and they visually look good/connected.
with an amp meter, connect in series by removing your battery ground off of battery. Connect one wire to battery negative terminal and the other to chassis cable. Make sure you use the fused 10A connections in your meter. It ahould only be drawing a tiny amount to keep the memories in your radio, clock, etc. If you are seeing 1A draw or more, you need to find the source by pulling fuses one at a time.
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Old Oct 2, 2018, 05:28 PM
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I killed two PC680s within a couple months once. First one I wrote off to being old, second one lasted a month or two. After having the battery shop tell me they wouldn't honor my warranty if I got another PC680 due to it being used in a car I was done with Odyssey. I drove my happy *** to Advance and bought a similarly sized generic AGM and haven't had a problem since (3-4 years). And the Advance guys told me they don't care at all what it's in, they'll warranty it if it goes bad.

Obviously, I would troubleshoot your car first to see if you do have a drain but there are other options out there that also happen to be cheaper. I did have to cut the battery hold down post and reweld it to my tray, but worth it IMO.
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Old Oct 15, 2018, 07:33 PM
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Alright guys let me tell you the test I did today. Lmk what ya think.

got new pc680 battery in. Installed it. Unhooked the negative battery terminal. Took a multimeter and one of the leads I touched the ring terminal that was unhooked. Other lead I touched the negative post. It read about 80 milliamps (if I read it correctly)

so with that that, I donít think thatís significant enough of a draw to do what itís been doing?

so maybe I actually did have a bad battery?



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Old Oct 16, 2018, 08:54 AM
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80 mA is within range (on the high end). So next step is to pay attention to what stays on after you shut off your engine. Light somewhere? Fuel pump? Radiator fan? Etc.
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Old Oct 16, 2018, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer View Post
80 mA is within range (on the high end). So next step is to pay attention to what stays on after you shut off your engine. Light somewhere? Fuel pump? Radiator fan? Etc.
when you say ďwithin rangeĒ youíre saying within the ďacceptableĒ range right?

And ill Iíll try and pay attention but nothing to my knowledge stays on after shutting the car off that I can tell. But Iíll pay more attention next time after shutting it off.
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Old Oct 16, 2018, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Bmurray View Post


when you say “within range” you’re saying within the “acceptable” range right?

And ill I’ll try and pay attention but nothing to my knowledge stays on after shutting the car off that I can tell. But I’ll pay more attention next time after shutting it off.
Correct. Car needs a little power to hold memory settings. Only things I can think of are clock, radio, and ECU. You could have an alarm system drawing some too that adds up to 80mA. It is a bit on high draw since our cars are not luxurious with all the tech gadgets. But no way 80mA will completely discharge in 30 minutes, so I'm thinking something isn't shutting off when your engine is turn off.
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Old Oct 16, 2018, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer View Post
Correct. Car needs a little power to hold memory settings. Only things I can think of are clock, radio, and ECU. You could have an alarm system drawing some too that adds up to 80mA. It is a bit on high draw since our cars are not luxurious with all the tech gadgets. But no way 80mA will completely discharge in 30 minutes, so I'm thinking something isn't shutting off when your engine is turn off.
is 80mA worth trying to find a draw since itís within range?
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Old Oct 16, 2018, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmurray View Post


is 80mA worth trying to find a draw since it’s within range?
That's your call (a lot of work to find maybe 20mA draw device you weren't expecting). Lol.
You can pull the radio fuse to see what's the remaining draw. Then disconnect your ECU next to see what's left. If you have an alarm, pull that fuse next and that is all the draw expected. If you have draw still, start pulling 1 by 1 to track down the small drain.

Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Oct 16, 2018 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2018, 12:27 PM
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The other thing you can do is check the battery voltage each time you shut off engine. It should slowly drop from 12.7ish. When you find it 12.0V right after turning off your engine (and dropping quickly), try to find the draw by listening to things still running. If no luck, then immediately pull the ground after turning off your engine and check voltage to see if you get the same quick drop. If you do, then it's the battery (again).
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