Evo IX Program Mode Help!!
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Evo IX Program Mode Help!!
Hey all, so I have a keyless entry remote that I want to program to my car. I’ve looked at other threads about key fob programming and tried the steps for myself.
1) Insert key and turn to first position (ACC)
2) Jump pins 1 and 4 on the OBD-II connector
3) ** Here is the key - immediately after jumping the two pins, press the Hazard Light Switch 6 times within 10 seconds.
4) The doors will lock and unlock, confirming that you are in programming mode
5) Press the Lock button 3 times (once, then two more times) on the first remote to program
6) The doors will lock and unlock again, confirming the successful programming of the remote.
7) Repeat step 5 for all other remotes, up to 4.
8) To exit Programming mode, do one of the following:
a) Turn the key to off
b) Remove the key
c) Remove the jumper wire
d) Do nothing for 1 minute
9) After exiting programming mode, its always a good idea to test out the remote to ensure the doors lock and unlock as commanded.
... but the problem that I’m having is that my car doesn't go into program mode. I’ve done step 1, both in off and acc position. I got to step 2, jumping pins 1 & 4 within 10 seconds. But when I try to do step 3, my car doesn’t lock and unlock like it should to confirm that it’s in programming mode. And that’s about how far I’m able to get. All of my doors lock and unlock perfectly fine. But I do wanna add that when I have my door open, key in or out of the ignition, my door chime doesn’t go off. So maybe I’m thinking that has some relation to the problem?
If anyone can help or give me some knowledge about this, I’d strongly appreicate it. Thanks
1) Insert key and turn to first position (ACC)
2) Jump pins 1 and 4 on the OBD-II connector
3) ** Here is the key - immediately after jumping the two pins, press the Hazard Light Switch 6 times within 10 seconds.
4) The doors will lock and unlock, confirming that you are in programming mode
5) Press the Lock button 3 times (once, then two more times) on the first remote to program
6) The doors will lock and unlock again, confirming the successful programming of the remote.
7) Repeat step 5 for all other remotes, up to 4.
8) To exit Programming mode, do one of the following:
a) Turn the key to off
b) Remove the key
c) Remove the jumper wire
d) Do nothing for 1 minute
9) After exiting programming mode, its always a good idea to test out the remote to ensure the doors lock and unlock as commanded.
... but the problem that I’m having is that my car doesn't go into program mode. I’ve done step 1, both in off and acc position. I got to step 2, jumping pins 1 & 4 within 10 seconds. But when I try to do step 3, my car doesn’t lock and unlock like it should to confirm that it’s in programming mode. And that’s about how far I’m able to get. All of my doors lock and unlock perfectly fine. But I do wanna add that when I have my door open, key in or out of the ignition, my door chime doesn’t go off. So maybe I’m thinking that has some relation to the problem?
If anyone can help or give me some knowledge about this, I’d strongly appreicate it. Thanks
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SoSoEVO (Nov 21, 2018)
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I tried it with having the key in off position too. And yeah, the hazards work fine. I’ve tried it so many times and actually watched that video as a reference as well, but still no luck.
#7
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Wish I'd seen this sooner as I had the exact same issue and was able to resolve it. Hopefully this doesn't count as necro-posting haha.
Right behind your ignition switch is a little yellowish(white?) box with a springed contact. That is the switch to let you know if you left the key in the car. The fact that your door chime doesn't work is a pretty solid indicator that the switch is not working and the programming will not work without it since it can't tell that you've removed the key.
This switch is often broken when removing the steering wheel cover to install a gauge or turbo timer. You can either find a replacement switch(I had no luck) or just do what I did and pull out the two green wires that go to the switch. Jump these two wires when you want the car to think the key is out, and keep them disconnected when you want it to think the key is in. (Might be the reverse of that actually, my memory isn't the best sorry).
It'll be a bit of a pain in the *** to do the programming and having to connect and reconnect the two wires, but it's not like you need to do it often. After you're done just leave them connected and taped up to keep your door chime from going off all the time.
Right behind your ignition switch is a little yellowish(white?) box with a springed contact. That is the switch to let you know if you left the key in the car. The fact that your door chime doesn't work is a pretty solid indicator that the switch is not working and the programming will not work without it since it can't tell that you've removed the key.
This switch is often broken when removing the steering wheel cover to install a gauge or turbo timer. You can either find a replacement switch(I had no luck) or just do what I did and pull out the two green wires that go to the switch. Jump these two wires when you want the car to think the key is out, and keep them disconnected when you want it to think the key is in. (Might be the reverse of that actually, my memory isn't the best sorry).
It'll be a bit of a pain in the *** to do the programming and having to connect and reconnect the two wires, but it's not like you need to do it often. After you're done just leave them connected and taped up to keep your door chime from going off all the time.
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Sorry for the late reply, but with that being said, would that have any affect on the alarm system not working either? Cause the chime for my headlihht goes off when I leave the key in the ignition with the car off and the headlight on. Unless it’s unrelated.
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Here’s some pics of that off white box that’s behind the steering column. Looks like it was damaged by whomever installed the boost and a/f ratio gauge. Any ideas what I can do now to make it work? There was also 2 wires that looked unconnected from it.