Battery Relocation (question heavy)
 

Maybe i'm overthinking this but can someone with electrical experience verify if this sounds safe and the steps i would do to complete this. im terrible with electrical stuff and the last thing i want to do is catch my car on fire or fry my ECU:

1. remove battery, and battery tray
2. ground the negative cable that was previously on the battery, to the chassis
3. take off the 12MM nut on the 100amp fuse, attach a connector thats crimped to 0 gauge wire, run that back into the trunk and connect it to the battery.
4. connect the negative terminal from the battery to the chassis

other questions:

does the 100amp fuse work with 0 gauge or should i do 150?
if the 100amp does not work, how would i connect the other 3 wires that are connected to the stock 100amp to an aftermarket 150amp fuse? can the wires be touching eachother or does it have to be setup like the stock fuse?

how did you guys route your + cable from under the car, into the trunk? did you have to drill holes?

more concerns:

i see that the fuse has to be no more than 18" from the + terminal on the battery. that means the oem fuse will need to be removed from the 3 wires that are connected to it. now, with those 3 wires, can i just connect and run a 0 gauge from them into the battery? is it safe if all 3 of those wires touch? because the way its set-up from the factory, 2 of them are touching eachother (held together by the 12mm and the other one is by itself held onto the fuse by a 10mm nut.

how many feet did you guys use? and what amp did you use?

edit: now i see people are saying not to run a fuse and go straight to a circuit breaker, while other people are saying there 100amp fuse works fine, and others are saying 150amp fuse, and others are saying 180amp fuse...how do you know which size is correct? run it with the 100amp fuse, if it blows go 150, if that blows go 180? or????

Err double post. See below.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...pstik6q4wm.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...pssgtcgplw.jpg

Excuse the messiness of my setup. I use a 200 AMP Stinger circuit breaker within 18" of the battery. Eliminates the possibility of the wire burning up due to a short if it occurs from the battery. Bought off Ebay as no one in the vicinity of the the San Gabriel Valley stocked such exotic items {thumbdwn}.

Went with the 200 AMP as some members reported blown/tripped breakers while starting up their cars. May have been overkill but it gave me peace of mind, one less part to fail. I may get another (200 AMP) circuit breaker for the positive wire (12v), from the engine bay to trunk connection. I left the oem fuse attached to the 3 wires in the engine bay, which I directly connected to the positive wire going to battery.

Thanks for the reply and pics!

So it doesnt matter if the FUSE is 18" away from the battery, but if you have a circuit breaker then THAT has to be less than 18" away?

How long have you had this set-up?

Why are you going to run another breaker? Are you going to run it with the oem fuse still? That would be a total of 400amps. Is the 200amp breaker not safe enough?

I believe most folks recommend 18", why I have no idea. This applies to both fuses and circuit breakers in relation to a battery relocation. I want to add another layer of protection in the event something shorts from the engine bay to battery. Had my current setup for a year and 8 months.

Last summer a radiator hose split sending coolant all over the engine bay. Some of the spillage landed on the alternator wire causing a short which tripped my circuit breaker. The idea of a short/spike in voltage traveling from the positive wire to circuit breaker, in the trunk, is un-nerving. The positive wire could "burn up" causing a fire I'd rather avoid.

The following kind of illustrates what I'm alluding too. Do not use the image as a guide!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments...on-jpg.120716/

So wait are you running the oem fuse right on top of the battery terminal? Or is it still in the engine bay?