The cheapest way I have found to make 308 AWHP on a MUSTANG dyno is:

HKS RS intake (many think it's not necessary so you may skip on this)
3" Turboback w/cat delete
MBC@20 psi
Walbro Pump
TurboTrix flash

308 AWHP

 

ted b

i see your point, however, you are in another state where you may not have the strictest smog laws. i really dont want to run the risk of the smog issue with the cams. has anyone smogged their car with the cams and had no problems?? anyone here in CA??

the other issue is the ecu. i guess im just afraid that i will lose the ecu over something stupid like a tune issue. some of you have bashed dynoflash, some have bashed vishnu, and probably others. i guess it comes down to preference. another issue is that some of the tuners dont guarantee it will perform with your set up-it will only perform with their parts that they have tested. 3" DP is a 3" DP in my opinion. exhaust is exhaust. some posts have just horrible results with some flashes, some have great results. i guess im just reluctant to get the flash with my bad luck. i also just have a set of 660cc injectors that are from my 98gst that were used for a week before our accident. they are blitz injectors that i would like to use and not waste away since ive already paid for them, might as well use them.

i just received my helix dp and cat back this afternoon. put it on this evening and what a difference. that is how the evo should have came from the factory. quick spool, pulls hard, and not as loud as i thought it was gonna be. i also received my greddy type s bov adapter and put that on also. slight flutter not alot. will tune a little more tomorrow. may have to do the single spring mod. anyways, thank you all for the ideas and i just may take that route TED B.

 

You don't need cams to get to 300whp (DJ). Cam gears and a slight retard setting may help you make a bit more power on the top end....but that won't prevent you from getting your '300'.

Just because you have something laying around (injectors), don't be hasty in feeling compelled to use it. You can sell the injectors, or shelve them. If you use them you WILL need a reflash or equivalent means of recalibration for them to work properly. Anyway, you'll just put more wear and tear on them, and you will get no real measurable benefit. Think about it. I'd advise selling them and putting what you get toward something you need to attain your goal.

In any case, consider at the very least a competent flash, or the 'deluxe' route I specified. You will not reap the full benefits of anything else you do without full revamp of the WOT spark *and* fuel tables. You will not 'lose' the ECU unless you put a sledgehammer to it.

 

I run the buschur 680's

 

I use Cottonelle toilet paper, which is equally useless information where badhabit90's performance planning is concerned.

 

I went to 660s because of also installing cams, to reduce the injector duty cycle.
The stock injectors will certainly work, but as reported, at near max duty cycle (with cams).

If you are not adding cams, the stock injectors appear to be more than enough.

 

With *proper* A/F tuning, the stock injectors do not appear to reach max duty cycle until around the 350-360whp level...well beyond the 300whp target here.

 

WTF???

 

Just trying to keep the discussion on topic for *your* benefit.

It was a tongue-in-cheek response anyway.

 

21 psi on the stock injectors are already too close for me. They are at high 80 percent at high rpm with a high 11 a/f ratio. No way that can be good for 360 whp

 

So long as the injectors are close to but do not exceed 85% at WOT, they are properly sized.

In any case, at the 300whp figure we are using as a target in this thread, it is certainly a non-issue.