Tapping after CAM install
#16
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Everytime I see these "ticking" posts, I am usually correct in assuming that the lifters were not bled down properly or at all.....
I just installed another set of HKS 272's and have no more valvetrain noise than I did when the car was stock. The first few moments of run-time after the cam install the car was rather noisey, but once the lifters adjusted for the lash everything quieted down to normal levels.
I just installed another set of HKS 272's and have no more valvetrain noise than I did when the car was stock. The first few moments of run-time after the cam install the car was rather noisey, but once the lifters adjusted for the lash everything quieted down to normal levels.
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Originally Posted by Jorge T
How do you explain the heat cycle ticking? Silent when cold , intake side tick when warming up and silent when at operating temp?
#19
If you did bleed the lifters and still get abnormal ticking then it is one of two things.
First oil pressure. Obviously at idle oil pressure is at it's lowest. If you go back to the crankwalk days a lot of attention was given to oil pressure and many times oil pressure was low at idle. Some of it was contributed to the oil squirter issues on the 2G but at the same time quite a few of the pumps were weak. There is not much to an oil pump but if the side clearance of the gears is too much then pressure will be low at idle. IT is a good idea if you have abnormal ticking to check the oil pressure is within specification.
Second, is the lash adjusters. By design the oil passage in the lash adjuster is quite small. It only takes a small amount of debris in the lash adjuster to disrupt it's function. This is why there is a lengthy procedure to clean lash adjusters in the Service Manual. Although synthetic oil is very good at gathering dirt in an engine (acts like a degreaser) it still happens. A couple of people have cleaned their lash adjusters as prescribed and have had success. They have also found that they had a bad adjuster which is easy to spot because you can push it in without bleeding it.
First oil pressure. Obviously at idle oil pressure is at it's lowest. If you go back to the crankwalk days a lot of attention was given to oil pressure and many times oil pressure was low at idle. Some of it was contributed to the oil squirter issues on the 2G but at the same time quite a few of the pumps were weak. There is not much to an oil pump but if the side clearance of the gears is too much then pressure will be low at idle. IT is a good idea if you have abnormal ticking to check the oil pressure is within specification.
Second, is the lash adjusters. By design the oil passage in the lash adjuster is quite small. It only takes a small amount of debris in the lash adjuster to disrupt it's function. This is why there is a lengthy procedure to clean lash adjusters in the Service Manual. Although synthetic oil is very good at gathering dirt in an engine (acts like a degreaser) it still happens. A couple of people have cleaned their lash adjusters as prescribed and have had success. They have also found that they had a bad adjuster which is easy to spot because you can push it in without bleeding it.
#20
Originally Posted by Jorge T
not quite answered...explain quiet at idle when fully warm (oil at 50C+.)
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Originally Posted by timzcat
Did you bleed the lifters before re-assembly?
This is a must or the lifters will be damaged by the higher lift cam and the lifters fully extending when the cams are removed.
This is a must or the lifters will be damaged by the higher lift cam and the lifters fully extending when the cams are removed.
So how do you bleed the lifters?
#24
Remove the lifter from the head and insert a "pin" in the center bore. Most use a paper clip to do this. I used a cdrom drive ejector tool if you ever seen one. I think a small allen wrench would work well too since it stiffer. We are talking a 1/16th allen wrench or the larger size paper clip.
Put the pin down through the top of lifter and apply a small amount of pressure to unseat the check ball in the lifter. You'll know you have it cause you can immediately start to move the top of the lifter in. Pump the the piston in and out with the pin in place until you can do it without the pin. Basically when you unseat it and push on the piston you are going to be pushing oil out so be careful because if you do it fast you will shoot oil out of the lifter.
Put the pin down through the top of lifter and apply a small amount of pressure to unseat the check ball in the lifter. You'll know you have it cause you can immediately start to move the top of the lifter in. Pump the the piston in and out with the pin in place until you can do it without the pin. Basically when you unseat it and push on the piston you are going to be pushing oil out so be careful because if you do it fast you will shoot oil out of the lifter.
#25
Easiest thing I found was to hold the lifter in one hand.
Put the pin in the lifter until it is all the way in. Use your thumb and forefinger to pinch the pin really close to the piston. Now push the pin in and at the same time your fingers will be meeting the piston so you can push it in and out while holding the pin in place. It's not very difficult to do, harder to explain. First one your kind of like wtf but then you figure it out and they are easy.
Put the pin in the lifter until it is all the way in. Use your thumb and forefinger to pinch the pin really close to the piston. Now push the pin in and at the same time your fingers will be meeting the piston so you can push it in and out while holding the pin in place. It's not very difficult to do, harder to explain. First one your kind of like wtf but then you figure it out and they are easy.
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I found a procedure on this forum wherein someone took the throttle to 3000 RPMs, then abruptly released the throttle back to idle. After repeating this quite a few times the noise lifters should refill with oil, and the tapping should go away.
I tried this a few times, and the tapping is almost gone. I just have a little left. Unfortuneately, I did not see timzcat's posts before I started this process. I hope this is not doing any damage to the car.
I tried this a few times, and the tapping is almost gone. I just have a little left. Unfortuneately, I did not see timzcat's posts before I started this process. I hope this is not doing any damage to the car.
#29
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Originally Posted by MadMsheen
I found a procedure on this forum wherein someone took the throttle to 3000 RPMs, then abruptly released the throttle back to idle. After repeating this quite a few times the noise lifters should refill with oil, and the tapping should go away.
I tried this a few times, and the tapping is almost gone. I just have a little left. Unfortuneately, I did not see timzcat's posts before I started this process. I hope this is not doing any damage to the car.
I tried this a few times, and the tapping is almost gone. I just have a little left. Unfortuneately, I did not see timzcat's posts before I started this process. I hope this is not doing any damage to the car.
#30
Yes there is a procedure in the service manual for pumping them up after bleeding.
It's not a problem. If the noise does not go away after doing this or comes back within a day then you probably have a bad lifter.
It's not a problem. If the noise does not go away after doing this or comes back within a day then you probably have a bad lifter.