anyone smart enough to figure out the best way to manuplate the stock karman vortex maf sensor?

For example, to munipulate the vortex it generates to better suit the aftermarket intake without creating too much turbulance?

just throwing this out here before I go work on my car with few of my ideas.

 

SAFC-II ... I mean thats all it does ....

 

yeh, i'm not talking about changing the afr ratio.

i mean the karman vortex type maf sensor itself.

and i'm not talking about removing it, or relocating the maf sensor.

i know how the kaman vortex maf works, just wondering if anyone got any brilliant ideas about the maf sensor and the engine works mods.

 

Turn over the maf and scrape wax plug away. This will reveal a screw that can be manipulated to alter maf readings. Screwing it out will lean out the afr and screwing it in will do the opposite. This is an old trick to combat fuel cut on 1g. Not sure how it will work on an Evo. I would advise against monkeying with the maf at all on an Evo since little is known about the effects of such.

 

I will assume you are talking about aftermarket air filter.
Put a 90 degree bend before the maf and after the filter.

 

how does that help the maf sensor's having turbulance disturb the vortex?

So you're saying 90 degree from turbo to come up to maf sensor then 90 degree after the maf sensor into another pipe to the filter?

 

no I am saying the turbulance is coming from the cone filter on the end of the MAF. If you had some type of buffer between the filter and the MAF I think the readings would be more stable. I don't believe the APS CAI has the same issues as a direct cone filter.

 

I happen to have the aps intake and I still stall like a ***** and have turbulence misfires at cruising speeds. It happens with the stock airbox too. Only one cure for this and that is AEM or some other form of standalone that eliminates that pesky MAF sensor.

 

Do you have a tune for that intake FRE?

Al was saying this intake flows a huge amount of air, and needs a retune badly, however once tuned in it was one of the most repeatable intakes he had seen, I would assume this is because the filter itself is not directly on the MAF.

 

hmmm....

i think there's got to be a better way to stablize the vortex, instead of having a bulky box.

I have an ideal, it's sort of mix between a cold air box and open element, but I don't know about how long the length of the intake pipe(that leads to the turbo) should be in order for it to still be efficient.

I did read a theory on the intake length and air travel with the throttle body opening and that's the only thing that's setting me back.

That and I doubt the efficiency of the intake once the intake pipe (that leads to the turbo) is bent 90 degree or post 45 degrees.

I'm sure GM MAF would maybe a better choice, but with the maf translator and maf itself with other add ons, it gets expensive.

But I do understand how a buffer maybe helpful in controlling the vortex, what timzcat said.

 

Of course it's tuned. Don't get me wrong WOT power is very consistent. I am always within 1 mph at the track on all my passes. I was just commenting on the idling and turbulence issues when you load/unload the engine (cruising up and down hills on the interstate). Al didn't like my intake or my AVCR when he saw them. My problems are not due to those parts though, just an inherent problem with big turbos and MAFs I believe.

 

actually the 1 g mod that you're talking about is a simple mod. Of course I'm not talking about the AFR ratio where I'm trying to get more air.

I'm trying to get a more stable stream of vortex reading.

anyway, 1g mod, first it opens up the maf opening, but also it stretches the distance between the bottom of the maf sensor to the optical reflector, which make the light longer, thus allowing the ecu to thinking that more air is coming in then it is.

it works the same way as the dsm.

But really, you shouldn't bother with that at all. The honey comb trick, it doesn't apply to evo's.

i guess the best way is to get AEM EMS or standalone to get rid of the maf sensor...

pesky little thing...

 

ECU + piggyback has an EIDS built into the software to smooth your maf readings. this way you can run VTA, and big cams with good idle.

 

what you need is something to help straighten the flow before the air runs into the wire. the bend in the duct will help as you are forcing the flow to change direction and thus stabilize somewhat from the randomness of the turbulent flow. You should be able to get an additional piece of honeycomb from a wrecked car at a junkyard and fit that forward of the existing honeycomb to try and help stabilize the flow as well. We used to have four layers of honeycomb stabilizing vanes before the test section of our wind tunnel at school just to help straighten the flow. Good Luck,

Greg (aero engineer)

 

Really you need something in the intake track after the filter before the MAF to smooth out the turbulence. I think this will be a trial and error type thing. The other thing is by putting something in there to quell turbulence, you could be restricting the extra flow you gained by going with an open element filter making any gains a wash. You might try some fine stainless steel screen in the intake track. Just make sure it can't be sucked into the turbo.