Well everyone it has been a long week and there is still a week left. 13th Annual DSM/EVO Shootout that we put on every year is this weekend. August 13th is a car show/open house/dyno competition at our shop. August 14th is the race at Norwalk Raceway Park.

We finally got our dyno last week. Had it installed without any real major problems. Fits into the new building like a glove, exactly what I had in mind. Even the 3 guys from Mustang Dyno that have seen it have been very impressed with the ideas. The new building is going to be super nice. It is basically done on the outside. Floors are done, epoxied them this weekend, grey. Used the speckled chip epoxy with blue, black and white chips. Really nice. We have just the basic electric and air in the building now. All the interior walls are finished yet but will be soon. The building will have a very nice observation room for customer to sit in heated/air conditioned comfort behind a large safety glass window to watch their cars being dyno'd. Stools, tall tables and such. Trying to make it top notch.

Anyway, the trainer from Mustand Dyno (MD) came out on Friday. Got everything hooked up and in. We loaded up my RS and made the first pull. Not sure what I expected but what I got was definetely short of what I wanted.

The dyno comes calibrated from the factory. You have to pick enter your vehicle weight, the horsepower it takes to propel it down the road at 50 mph (listed in a chart you get with the dyno) etc.

I owned a Dynojet for over 5 years. The Dynojet isn't even in the same league as this thing. Sorry to anyone who likes them, but atleast comparing it to the old 2wd model I had, there is no comparison.

This thing comes with a freaking manual that looks more like a dictionary. Very complex tool.

My RS on our 2wd Dynojet made 393 whp and 390 ft lbs of torque on 94 octane on the stock turbo, when it did this it ran 11.7 at 116 mph.

The RS last week ran 11.31 at 120 mph now, being tuned on race gas and our new 20G turbo at 22 psi of boost. To me this means it has increased between 30 and 40 whp from where it was before. This made me think (or dream) that the car would put down atleast 400 whp on the new dyno.

NOT EVEN CLOSE. The first pull I made the car made 330 something. I felt sick. The guy from MD was impressed, I was sick. I tell him, "Dude, that **** ain't right." He says, "What should it be?" I tell him over 400 and explain why I feel that is the case.

I look at the datalog in the EMS. Figure, alright, I got screwed. This is another case where the dyno and street are completely different.......not the case. The datalog was perfect, looked just like the street.

WTF?! I tell the guy lets try it again. Again, 338 or something pitiful.

O.K., I didn't want to do this but I am not happy. I ask him, "Alright, I know there is a way to manipulate those numbers, how do you do it?" He laughs and says, "Just about every guy I install one for wants the same thing." So he attempts to show me some tricks. Well guess what, no matter what we "lie" about in the computer the power stays the same, within 10 whp anyway. He say, "How do you like that?! The car made 348!?" I say, "Look, that number is BS, no way you can convince me a car making 348 whp is going to run 11.31 at 120 mph." There has to be another way to change what the dyno reads. He makes a phone call. Tells me the other parameters are "locked" but he can unlock them and change them. He does it. The power drops. I say, "You went the wrong way with your adjustment, please go the other way." HURRAY!! My car now makes 408 whp! So, now I am even sicker. The last thing I want is to mess with this brand new dyno.

Here is the dilema. As many of you know I have a guy up the street doing the same thing I am. Of course I'm not happy about it. IF any of you were to go to one shop and dyno 408 whp and then came to mine and dyno'd 348 whp I am pretty darn sure that you will not be coming back to me. That is my dilema.

On with the long *** story I am telling. I explain this to the MD trainer. He agrees. I tell him, look for now please put the dyno back to exactly like it is suppose to be. I make another pull 340 whp and we call it a day. It's about 8 pm now.

Next day I come in after not getting any sleep over this ordeal. He meets me for breakfast. I try not to ruin his meal by talking about the dyno.

I go over the dyno set up and operation with a million questions again and he is super nice and explains it all to me....again.

My brother shows up about this time and says he is either putting his EVO on the dyno or going to the track. I tell him get it and load it on the dyno.

Now his car is our Stage 4 with 1650 cc injectors, AEM EMS, our race FMIC, our GT35r kit, our head, our stroker etc. The car has only been tuned by myself on the street.

Now remember, the dyno is exactly like it is suppose to be. NO more games or manipulating it. Daniel, my brother, pulls the car. It sounds freaking amazing. The MD trainer freaks out!! He says, "Holy crap I have never seen a 4 cylinder do anything like that!" I look at the screen and it says 638 whp 585 ft lbs. WOW!

Now I am even more messed up. How does this car make 638 whp, which is what I would expect on our 2wd Dynojet, and mine make 340? Daniel wants more, of course, so I make a few fuel changes and to his and mine amazement the power will not go up. I guess that old *** dyno of mine is better than I thought. I ended up on the last pull adding a couple more degrees of timing just up top and the power rose to 640 even.

Over the weekend I figured it out. It was quite simple actually. I would call my competitor and make a dyno appointment. Pay the $150 for an hour, make 3-4 quick pulls, get dyno sheets with HP/Torque on them with speed/rpm and then go back to the shop. Dyno the car again. Then I would know exactly how much the two dyno's differed.

Well I called first thing this morning and am told I can get in afternoon sometime, get put on hold and then get told, "We don't think it would be a good idea for you to come here and dyno."

I guess that was a smart move on their part......?

I'll get a car in there, watch out guys..........somebody is going to get an appointment there........ooooohhhhhhhh........then dyno at our shop too.........oh my. hahahahaha

Actually there are a few guys coming in from out of state this weekend that have just dyno'd on AWD Dynojets, I am going to dyno them when they get here so I can get an idea of the difference. Saves me $150

More information. After I took my car off the dyno the first night I drove home and did some pulls, exactly like I did on the dyno. I am truly amazed at the accuracy. I guess this is what a real dyno does, simulates road/track conditions. The AFR's were within .2, in other words on the dyno they would be 11.2 on the road they would be 11.4, or in othe points the AFR's would be 11.4 on the dyno and 11.2 on the street. Boost levels at any RPM were within 1 psi. Very nice.

I am really looking forward to getting started tuning with it. I think the results will just be phenominal.

I'll whoop any advertised dyno rates, just give us a call. Also will offer up our shop/grounds for clubs and dyno days, also just give us a call.

If you can make it to the shootout this weekend come down, you won't be disapointed!

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

SWEET!!! So does your car make 408whp or 338whp?

That is funny as hell. I can't stop laughing about this remark.

 

dam that is really long post

 

Good luck! You will have a blast dialing that Mustang Dyno in for sure. My friend who owns a very well known Mustang tuning shop here in Mo-Town had one and could not get it how he wanted it(he said it was very difficult to dial in properly) and ended up going back to the dynojet dyno chasis. The ratio he use to use was taking the number and multiplying it by 1.13 to get the dynojet number. Anyway, He got sick of people getting tunes done at competitors dynos and he would sell and install new parts to get lower numbers. Just get used to lower numbers, and this is no big deal, the track/street is the tell all. I don't know why there is such an emphasis on that big number? The dynos are designed for tuning combinations and mods, to maximize and set perameters for bennifit. And sorry guys for quoting this and taking up all of this space.

 

I wouldn't worry about the dyno reading lower numbers, people should realize that anyone can inflate numbers on the dyno. What speaks volumes is how it performs on the street/track. I would rather go to a dyno like yours that can simulate real world steet conditions and get a proper tune than go somewhere to inflate my ego. Also like how you are going to have other people test the competitors dyno just hope they don't adjust it to read closer to yours before then. Good luck and keep us posted on any 20G updates (gettin anxious over here)

 

buschur: don't feel bad, look at all the poor shops who use dyno dynamics dynos which read even lower than mustang dynos lol. You should really focus on before/after gains rather than just the peak #'s anyways. It's sad but dynojet makes one of the worst dynos but everyone wants to use them just for bragging rights.

 

Congrats on getting the dyno all setup. I notice people using very different HP at 50 mph around here. What weight and what HP at 50 did you use for your RS?

 

Dave,
I own a mustang dyno in Columbus ohio. Dont fudge the settings, its not worth it. I could give numbers that would have your evo making 1000 HP. Mustang dyno is putting a load on the car unlike a dynojet, so the numbers are always going to be lower, but more realistic. Our dyno reads about 10% lower than a dynojet and thats what I tell the customers.

Jason

 

Dave, what differences were there on the A/F ratio when you were tuning it on the dynojet and when it was running on the road? Am trying to see if it correlates with my findings...

 

There you go I know it was a long post, so you may have missed that.

Keith

 

David, leave the dyno completely honest and get a bunch of base line numbers from bone stock EVO's to give you an idea of what % lower it reads compared to other dyno's. You knew from the start that Mustand Dyno's read lower than dynojet dyno's didn't you? Just like people with dyno dynamics setups, you will always be explaining why your numbers are lower.... that is why a good set of baseline numbers from bone stock EVO's is very important to get.

Keith

 

so i think we all want to know what the gain in hp/tq was with the new 20g over the stock 16g.

 

There are only a Few Long Posts I actually Read. And Anything this man posts, i read from top to bottom.

 

Its ok Dave. theres a AWD Dyno here in North Carolina and NO likes it cuz its like yours it reads low but it reads RIGHT!

 

The weight that MD wants you to use I believe was 3625, whatever is listed in their chart. The HP @ 50 is 15.1.

I didn't move the HP @ 50 number, change the correction factor either. We did mess with the vehicle weight and couldn't change the number by more than 10 whp. My RS is light, I entered it at 3150, which is pretty close to what it weighs.

I hear what you guys are saying about keeping it like it is suppose to be etc. Problem is that really ruins my data from the last 5-6 years. Also is going to keep someone from coming back if they use a competitors dyno that reads higher.

The fact is changing this othe parameter did NOT change the tune in the car at all. The AFR's and boost stayed the same. All changing it would do is put it on an even level with other dyno's in the area. Hell there is one within 10 miles of me now and another within 25 miles. One more going in about 1.5 hours from here. Then there is an engine dyno directly across the street!

I can always print two sheets for anyone wanting to compare. One with true MD numbers and one with the Dynojet "simulation" numbers on it. That maybe the best solution.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com