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how much you pay for labor on 2.3L kit?

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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 07:25 AM
  #31  
Derek888's Avatar
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From: Taipei
David,

For your stroker kit that is priced at $2200 what kind of parts are used? Whats the comp ratio and bore size...does it come with a 4g64 crank? Or is this stuff really confidential.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 08:22 AM
  #32  
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I forgot something in the price listings. If we take the engine out of the car we will install a new front cover and oil pump gears too, that adds another $300 to materials. We can re-use any old parts you want, tensioner, belt, front cover etc, but it requires you sign a waiver so if they fail it is on you and not us.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 09:42 AM
  #33  
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From: Frisco
I do not always agree with David or what he has to say, but he is honest. I would trust his shop to work on my car if I did not know how to do whatever I need myself, not many people will just put new parts back on for free even when it is no skin off of their back as the original parts were off anyway. A shop ethic like that means the world as far as I am concerned, you just do not have to worry about schiesty behavior and you know what you will get when you drop your car off to them. Great work ethics, he is definatly from the old school....
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:22 AM
  #34  
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From: West Chicago, IL
Tax parts labor the whole nine through AMS is $5600.00

That included a 2.3 stroker shortblock installed with Ross pistons, Eagle rods, Main and rod bearings, ARP Main studs, All gaskets, Timing belt, oil, coolant, Trans fluid, Timing belt tensioner Machine work and labor....EVERYTHING

options are $150 for O-ring block
new oil pump $203
New water pump $140
upgrade to oliver Rods $400

Eric

Last edited by AutoMotoSports; Nov 10, 2005 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:28 AM
  #35  
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From: Los Angeles
Originally Posted by VTEC Killer
im not starting a pissing contest here, I was just upset because someone put a label on me as someone with no info
Ok, not to beat a dead horse here, but you DIDN'T have any info...on Smogrunner's build up. That was the context. Why do you insisnt on personalizing it and taking it out of the context in which it was presented? Seriously, I don't know what's so hard to understand about what was said before. Now, back to on topic...
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 12:40 PM
  #36  
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From: Springfield, MO
+1 well put
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 05:19 PM
  #37  
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From: Bakersfield, CA
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
O.K. here we go...

You cannot install a stroker kit into the block with the block in the car. The block has to be clearanced for the rods.

We do offer just dropping in new pistons and rods with the block in the car and as much as some other shops want to run their mouths (you know who you are) it is actually a very good way of doing the job and of the probably 20 cars we have done this to we have had ZERO problems. Actually some of the best running that have left here. Doing the pistons/rods in the car means the balance shafts stay in the block, the engines are extremely smooth like this. Any engine we pull the balance shafts come out of for the little extra power it produces and to eliminate any bearing problems with the shafts. Doing the engine in the chassis is $750 labor. This is the process:

First thing the cylinder head comes off. The cylinders are then inspected and if they look good we use a bore gauge on them. We also inspect the bearings to make sure nothing odd was going on. If the bores and crank check out to be fine we then re-hone the cylinders and finish the job. The other costs involved with doing it like this would be:

Rods, pistons and bearings, $1105
Timing belt and tensioner, $145
Oil, oil filter and antifreeze, $50
Head gasket, $50.

So basically you can get your engine re-built for $2100 and from that point it will take about anything you can throw at it. This is the cheapest most efficient way to get a "Stage 3" shortblock as long as your engine hasn't already blown up and is still in good shape. The work can be done in 2 days.

If you came here and dropped off your car and wanted one of our Stage 3 stroker engines the bill would look like this:

Stroker engine, $3500
Gasket kit, $300
Timing belt and tensioner, $145
Oil, filter, ani-freeze and gear lube etc., $100
Labor, $1500
Total $5545

Most guys would also get head studs and a Stage 3 head while doing this, that would add another $1760.

If there is something else that can be added easily while we are doing the job we do not charge extra. So if you wanted a new clutch put in we would do that free as it is apart anyway. If you wanted a SIMPLE turbo kit put on that did not require fabricating someone else's mistakes so they fit it would be free. Our turbo kit or 20G would be free to add. We will usually add Stages 1-4 for free while doing an engine too, probably charge a few extra dollars for the fuel pump, exhaust and FMIC install but it would be resonable. There a many freebies when doing a large job as we can't charge someone twice and feel good about doing it.

Hope this helps,

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
thanks for the info david. one more thing. what about putting the 4g64 crankshaft in? can this be done with the block still in? if so, any big problems? thanks justin
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 12:04 PM
  #38  
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No the crank cannot be put in, in the car.

We only use Crower billet rods in our Strokers, nothing else. The Eagle's are good rods but I don't feel they are strong enough to use in the stroker engines. The piston speeds are just too high.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
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