Sounds like the same setup as the 1G DSM's. They are only available with the control arm from the dealer. However, there are aftermarket (i.e, moog, etc) and mitsubishi ones that will fit. Also, the boot is available for those cars and can be easily filled with grease and pressed over the ball joint using a "tube" of the proper diameter to seat the base of the boot.

Part number for the 1G balljoint boot is MB176047, no idea if it's the same as an Evo.

 

Part number for Evo is different.

 

How do yo know if the balljoint is bad????

 

What about using the whiteline kit?

 

You will know.....first you hear them when turning.... and if they're really bad you will hear & feel them go clunkity clunk around turns.....especially when loading the wheel with the bad balljoint.

 

Very Important!

When installing the new ball joint make sure that it is rotated just right and pry open the "clamp" (for lack of the correct word). Make sure that it is seated all the way up into the hole. I thought mine was. I smacked the bottom of the control arm with a lump hammer (piece of wood in between) and thought that it was home. The boot was 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch lower than the spindle and I did not see the tiny groove or know that it needed to be rotated just right for it to seat properly. After being convinced that it was up as far as it would go I tightened it up and off I went. 2 months later my spindle disconnected from the control arm and tore the front wheel off as I was getting on the highway. I was VERY lucky it happened at low speed on an on ramp (20 MPH) This is the kind of failure that will result in a catasrophic crash likely resulting in death. 2 weeks prior I was tracking the car at Pocono doing 140 MPH! Two days prior I was drag racing the car at 118 MPH. I was very lucky and I learned a valuable lesson. I am not a young kid who has never turned a wrench before. I was 35 years old and I have been working on cars my whole life and I still made this critical error. Please double check everything if you do this job yourself. Even if you have a mechanic do it, double check him as well. Good luck

Ed

 

EvoTech,

I recently replaced my hub. Do I need to follow the ball joint rotating procedure? I hammered the lower arm into the hub to the point where there was no gap between the boot and the arm. From reading the FSM, it doesn't seem like it. But I just want to make sure that thing doesn't loosen up on me while I'm driving around the track!

 

If there is zero gap, you should be fine.

 

So, is there a balljoint replacement that will work on our cars?

 

I'm bringin' it back, anyone have a better idea of how to replace ball joints rather than bandaid them with replacement boots?

 

Whiteline Roll center kit replaces the ball joint and tie rods ends. I will be doing mine this weekend and posting pics.

http://www.jscspeed.com/evo/suspension/wl_evorock.htm

 

I just noticed the whiteline kit and I also noticed that some Generic manufacturers sell the ball front lower ball joints for evos here:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...423022k1195005

Looks like Moog, SPICER/RAYBESTOS & AC DELCO are the brands. Does anyone have any experience with these?

 

+1 on this.. might have to replace mine also.. anyone?

 

Nothin on em, I ended up going with the whiteline kit

 

i am having a problem with me evo when turning hard left i think it is a ball joint: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-cv-joint.html