Conclusion to blown turbo
Warrtalon- no, I run Kumho SPT's daily and have an extra set of wheels with Toyo's for the track.
Also, I told Alfred to tune especially safe for 5 hard 25 minute sessions a day during track weekends.
Agent-smith- the old lady didn't understand what I said but said I better do something.......obviously, I'll do nothing.
Also, I told Alfred to tune especially safe for 5 hard 25 minute sessions a day during track weekends.
Agent-smith- the old lady didn't understand what I said but said I better do something.......obviously, I'll do nothing.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
NJ, why would you suggest a hi-flow cat in place of what he already has? he has a turboback, which means he already has a cat replacement, and likely it's a test pipe. A HFC would make less power.
Injectors would help make more pump gas power, not on race gas, though. Also, you guys should have much higher gains on 100oct than 10-12whp. I would gain 3-4mph going from SAFC on pump gas to SAFC on race gas at the track, which is 30-40whp.
Injectors would help make more pump gas power, not on race gas, though. Also, you guys should have much higher gains on 100oct than 10-12whp. I would gain 3-4mph going from SAFC on pump gas to SAFC on race gas at the track, which is 30-40whp.
For my car I went with a conservative tune on the 100 octane map. My AFR at redline with 91 pump gas is around 11-10.9. On 100 octane it is only 11.2-11.3. Basically, I am using the 100 octane for safety while I beat on the car on the road course. If I was tuning for the drag strip then I would have gone with 11.8ish AFR.
Injectors themselves don't trick the ECU. It's just that with injectors, you have to pull out a LOT MORE FUEL with the SAFC. Doing so fools the ECU into thinking LESS air is crossing the MAF, which therefore causes it to use more aggressive timing maps. The main key is how we run lean in the peak boost area (~3500rpm), so you can't remove fuel on stock injectors in order to raise timing. This is why it's such a limitation until you add injectors. With injectors, you go rich across the board, so you're able to remove fuel at every rpm, including the peak boost area, which then allows you to set a better AFR along with some increased timing. However, this is still not CONTROLLING timing...it's just manipulating timing as you stated. It sucks to have to go as far as upgrading something that doesn't need upgrading with the stock turbo (e.g. injectors), that requies tuning for both WOT _and_ idle, and that in the end still doesn't give direct control of timing nor does it give any of the flash features, such as launch control, rev limit bump, idle control, etc. In the end, you pay more for the SAFC to get less, and you've had to switch out your perfectly-good stock injectors.
If you both are tuned for road racing, that's fine, but when I had my SAFC, I would much rather run with the most power I can safely run on a daily basis, then detune slightly at the track instead of running my road race detune 24/7. That would suck. As of now, I'm flashed for 26psi on alky+93, but without being tuned to the edge. It still makes a lot of power, but at the road course, I turn the boost down 2psi and add a half tank of 100/104oct. I get to enjoy big power daily instead of suffering the detune daily just for the occasional road course trip.
If you both are tuned for road racing, that's fine, but when I had my SAFC, I would much rather run with the most power I can safely run on a daily basis, then detune slightly at the track instead of running my road race detune 24/7. That would suck. As of now, I'm flashed for 26psi on alky+93, but without being tuned to the edge. It still makes a lot of power, but at the road course, I turn the boost down 2psi and add a half tank of 100/104oct. I get to enjoy big power daily instead of suffering the detune daily just for the occasional road course trip.
You misunderstood the tuning that I have. I have a 91 octane tune. This tune is not at the ragged edge, but is a good safe tune for the rappy 91 octane gas that we have. It tapers to 10.9:1 at redline and cut-off like almost all the tunes that I have seen for 91 octane gas. Road Race Engineering tunes that way so does Shiv and TT. We are not lucky to have 93 octane, so tuners do this to preserve the engine.
I opted for a conservative tune on the 100 octane gas since in road racing a 20 mintue track session is way harder on the engine than a run down the drag strip. That is why the car got 12-13 hp over what it had with 91 octane. Also, with 100 octane I am only boosting to 24 psi. 25 psi hits the cutoff and I did not want to flash my ECU to remove this safety feature. On 91 octane I boost to 22-23 psi. So one psi more will add about 10-13 hp. As I said before, the 100 octane is more for safety than power. It is there to reduce detonation when the car gets worked on the road course.
I opted for a conservative tune on the 100 octane gas since in road racing a 20 mintue track session is way harder on the engine than a run down the drag strip. That is why the car got 12-13 hp over what it had with 91 octane. Also, with 100 octane I am only boosting to 24 psi. 25 psi hits the cutoff and I did not want to flash my ECU to remove this safety feature. On 91 octane I boost to 22-23 psi. So one psi more will add about 10-13 hp. As I said before, the 100 octane is more for safety than power. It is there to reduce detonation when the car gets worked on the road course.
I wasn't confused about your tuning. I understanding being more conservative on 91oct than 93oct, but I don't understand running such high boost on 91oct. If it's so bad, then why run such high boost? That's higher than I ran on 93oct with a regular 11.3-11.5 AFR tune when I ran 12.26 @ 110. I don't consider 22-23psi on 91 to be conservative at all, nor do I consider 24psi conservative on 100oct. Again, this is exactly what I used to do when I had basic mods like you but just an SAFC to tune (tune myself, that is). I would keep it normal on 93oct with 21psi, then I'd toss in 104oct mixed with 93 and crank the boost to 24psi, then go a bit leaner (still below 12.0) and pick up 3mph.
Not sure what cutoff you are referring to. Are you saying you think the stock ECU has a boost limit or something? The ECU has no idea what our boost is. It bases fuel cut off of airflow, and this is drastically changed when we add tuning. We remove a lot of fuel with the tune, so then the point of fuel cut rises significantly. For instance, I never hit fuel cut with my SAFC, because with fuel removed, it fools the ECU into thinking less air is crossing the MAF, thus delaying fuel cut significantly. There is no set boost cut or anything, so stopping your boost at 24psi just to not "remove this safety feature" doesn't make sense to me. Is that what you thought?
Not sure what cutoff you are referring to. Are you saying you think the stock ECU has a boost limit or something? The ECU has no idea what our boost is. It bases fuel cut off of airflow, and this is drastically changed when we add tuning. We remove a lot of fuel with the tune, so then the point of fuel cut rises significantly. For instance, I never hit fuel cut with my SAFC, because with fuel removed, it fools the ECU into thinking less air is crossing the MAF, thus delaying fuel cut significantly. There is no set boost cut or anything, so stopping your boost at 24psi just to not "remove this safety feature" doesn't make sense to me. Is that what you thought?
My car was boosting to 22 psi with a TBE and a panel filter before the tune. It tapered to 17 psi by redline. After the tune on 91 octane it boosts to 22-23 psi and tapers to 19 by redline. I never had a boost gauge when the car was stock, so I cannot tell what it was back then.
The cutoff that I am referring to is the one that you get when you load the engine in a high gear at low rpm and go WOT. When I put the car in 4th or 5th gear and drive at 3000 rpm and go WOT I usually hit the cutoff. Call it fuel cut or boost cut. It is a cut programmed in the ECU. I was hitting that and had to modifiy the Xede map and reduce the boost by 3 percent. This fixed the problem.
The cutoff that I am referring to is the one that you get when you load the engine in a high gear at low rpm and go WOT. When I put the car in 4th or 5th gear and drive at 3000 rpm and go WOT I usually hit the cutoff. Call it fuel cut or boost cut. It is a cut programmed in the ECU. I was hitting that and had to modifiy the Xede map and reduce the boost by 3 percent. This fixed the problem.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Also, you guys should have much higher gains on 100oct than 10-12whp.
Originally Posted by atlvalet
FYI on TT's dyno I made 306/306 on 91. On 100 I made 340/330 in 98 degree weather. Stock cams, no cam gears, HFC. I could have run more boost on 100, but my boost tables are maxed out @ 100%.


