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Crap..anyone with a tre rebuild help?

Old May 19, 2006 | 08:08 AM
  #1  
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Crap..anyone with a tre rebuild help?

Somehow I lost the stinking breakin instructions , yellow sheet.

if anyone has those and could post them up or email them to me that would be great!
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Old May 19, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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I don't have them in front of me, but i believe Jon @ TRE recommends that you take it EZ on the trans for 500miles then change the gear oil.
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Old May 19, 2006 | 09:02 PM
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...something like don't go over 60mph for X number of miles... yadda, yadda.
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Old May 20, 2006 | 09:01 AM
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why is it different than a factory break-in? I never see anyone changing their tranny fluid on their stock evo's after 500 miles...
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Old May 20, 2006 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by boostedwrx
why is it different than a factory break-in? I never see anyone changing their tranny fluid on their stock evo's after 500 miles...
-actually a lot of people do, or at least i did. according to TRE all gears take quite a long period, several thousand miles, to fully bed with one another. i remember the 1st time i changed the rear diff oil. i could not believe the amount of metal/gear oil sludge on the magnetci drain plug. I though the diff was self-destructing. according the jon this is normal, he called it ****, as the small imperfections wear off the face of the gear teeth. i change the diff fluid yearly (i track the car) and each time the amont of "****" on the magnet is less, which again is normal.
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Old May 20, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 'ringmeister
-actually a lot of people do, or at least i did. according to TRE all gears take quite a long period, several thousand miles, to fully bed with one another. i remember the 1st time i changed the rear diff oil. i could not believe the amount of metal/gear oil sludge on the magnetci drain plug. I though the diff was self-destructing. according the jon this is normal, he called it ****, as the small imperfections wear off the face of the gear teeth. i change the diff fluid yearly (i track the car) and each time the amont of "****" on the magnet is less, which again is normal.
Makes sense I guess. Do you put it on stands when you change everything? I've always been so paranoid of being under the car while supported, and it has to be pretty level to change everything. I rather do it myself instead of having the dealer do it though. I usually just drive it onto the Rhino ramps and put a jack underneath the front when I change the oil, but I'll have to get the rear up in the air now somehow.
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Old May 20, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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ATF works best for this. It has detergents to keep all the little passage ways clean in a AT. Shifts fantastic with the stuff too.
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Old May 20, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 'ringmeister
-actually a lot of people do, or at least i did. according to TRE all gears take quite a long period, several thousand miles, to fully bed with one another. i remember the 1st time i changed the rear diff oil. i could not believe the amount of metal/gear oil sludge on the magnetci drain plug. I though the diff was self-destructing. according the jon this is normal, he called it ****, as the small imperfections wear off the face of the gear teeth. i change the diff fluid yearly (i track the car) and each time the amont of "****" on the magnet is less, which again is normal.
****? I like it.

Actually, I refer to the metal that wears off the gears as " gear shed" but I guess, rightfully so, once that shed is on the magnet it should be hailed as GEAR ****!

Last edited by GEARS; May 22, 2006 at 08:15 PM.
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Old May 20, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
ATF works best for this. It has detergents to keep all the little passage ways clean in a AT. Shifts fantastic with the stuff too.
True. ATF works good to help clean some of the funk out of an engine that has to deal with hydrocarbons from combustion and oil breakdown and it’s plausible for short use in a manual transmission.

However, don't fill the transfer case or rear-end with that stuff because the film strength is no where near what a ring & pinion requires.
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