New dyno numbers from Buschur....
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From: NR Reading PA
New dyno numbers from Buschur....
From Dave Buschur's website:
The runs were made on pump and race gas.
The worst run we made was 331 hp. Then we started messing with boost and the AFC setting we had dialed in on the street with the wide band. These are the same settings we send out with our AFC's. We dumped some 112 octane in on top of what we had to really try and crank on the boost. Problem ended up being we hit fuel cut. The best runs that were over 340 hp were done with a mix of race gas and 94 octane. The largest gain seemed to come from getting the boost up to 20 psi all the way to redline and some new AFC settings. The AFC really woke it up again but we have the car running leaner than we would like to see customers run on pump gas and on the street. The quality of fuel just varies so much. We will offer these settings to anyone that bought the AFC from us for RACING purposes only, I would suggest some race gas being dumped in just to keep it ultra safe.
We dyno'd the car times in 15-20 minutes. No problems. The upper intercooler pipe was SO COLD I was truly shocked. I had the sprayer on auto the entire time, straight water in the tank. That intercooler must not be too bad, the plumbing was just too cold for it to be junk.
The torque on the runs varied from 280's to 297 ft lbs on the best one.
As for cost of the package.
The entire exhaust system is $750.
MAS pipe with the filter is going to be around $200.
Upper i/c pipe with the BOV is going to be right around $300.
AFC is $325 with the settings and wiring instructions.
Boost controller is $75
Gauge with mount is $85
The battery kit (no HP gain, just 20 hp less and makes room for the rest of the parts) is $225.
I come up with a total of $1960. This isn't bad for a 90 hp increase over stock. With this kind of HP and a really good pass/driver the car is capable of running in the high 11's. Tym is going to give it a shot next week at the track.
Thanks for the interest,
David Buschur
Speedlimit ..........
The runs were made on pump and race gas.
The worst run we made was 331 hp. Then we started messing with boost and the AFC setting we had dialed in on the street with the wide band. These are the same settings we send out with our AFC's. We dumped some 112 octane in on top of what we had to really try and crank on the boost. Problem ended up being we hit fuel cut. The best runs that were over 340 hp were done with a mix of race gas and 94 octane. The largest gain seemed to come from getting the boost up to 20 psi all the way to redline and some new AFC settings. The AFC really woke it up again but we have the car running leaner than we would like to see customers run on pump gas and on the street. The quality of fuel just varies so much. We will offer these settings to anyone that bought the AFC from us for RACING purposes only, I would suggest some race gas being dumped in just to keep it ultra safe.
We dyno'd the car times in 15-20 minutes. No problems. The upper intercooler pipe was SO COLD I was truly shocked. I had the sprayer on auto the entire time, straight water in the tank. That intercooler must not be too bad, the plumbing was just too cold for it to be junk.
The torque on the runs varied from 280's to 297 ft lbs on the best one.
As for cost of the package.
The entire exhaust system is $750.
MAS pipe with the filter is going to be around $200.
Upper i/c pipe with the BOV is going to be right around $300.
AFC is $325 with the settings and wiring instructions.
Boost controller is $75
Gauge with mount is $85
The battery kit (no HP gain, just 20 hp less and makes room for the rest of the parts) is $225.
I come up with a total of $1960. This isn't bad for a 90 hp increase over stock. With this kind of HP and a really good pass/driver the car is capable of running in the high 11's. Tym is going to give it a shot next week at the track.
Thanks for the interest,
David Buschur
Speedlimit ..........
Re: New dyno numbers from Buschur....
Originally posted by Speedlimit
From Dave Buschur's website:
The runs were made on pump and race gas.
The worst run we made was 331 hp. Then we started messing with boost and the AFC setting we had dialed in on the street with the wide band. These are the same settings we send out with our AFC's. We dumped some 112 octane in on top of what we had to really try and crank on the boost. Problem ended up being we hit fuel cut. The best runs that were over 340 hp were done with a mix of race gas and 94 octane. The largest gain seemed to come from getting the boost up to 20 psi all the way to redline and some new AFC settings. The AFC really woke it up again but we have the car running leaner than we would like to see customers run on pump gas and on the street. The quality of fuel just varies so much. We will offer these settings to anyone that bought the AFC from us for RACING purposes only, I would suggest some race gas being dumped in just to keep it ultra safe.
We dyno'd the car times in 15-20 minutes. No problems. The upper intercooler pipe was SO COLD I was truly shocked. I had the sprayer on auto the entire time, straight water in the tank. That intercooler must not be too bad, the plumbing was just too cold for it to be junk.
The torque on the runs varied from 280's to 297 ft lbs on the best one.
As for cost of the package.
The entire exhaust system is $750.
MAS pipe with the filter is going to be around $200.
Upper i/c pipe with the BOV is going to be right around $300.
AFC is $325 with the settings and wiring instructions.
Boost controller is $75
Gauge with mount is $85
The battery kit (no HP gain, just 20 hp less and makes room for the rest of the parts) is $225.
I come up with a total of $1960. This isn't bad for a 90 hp increase over stock. With this kind of HP and a really good pass/driver the car is capable of running in the high 11's. Tym is going to give it a shot next week at the track.
Thanks for the interest,
David Buschur
Speedlimit ..........
From Dave Buschur's website:
The runs were made on pump and race gas.
The worst run we made was 331 hp. Then we started messing with boost and the AFC setting we had dialed in on the street with the wide band. These are the same settings we send out with our AFC's. We dumped some 112 octane in on top of what we had to really try and crank on the boost. Problem ended up being we hit fuel cut. The best runs that were over 340 hp were done with a mix of race gas and 94 octane. The largest gain seemed to come from getting the boost up to 20 psi all the way to redline and some new AFC settings. The AFC really woke it up again but we have the car running leaner than we would like to see customers run on pump gas and on the street. The quality of fuel just varies so much. We will offer these settings to anyone that bought the AFC from us for RACING purposes only, I would suggest some race gas being dumped in just to keep it ultra safe.
We dyno'd the car times in 15-20 minutes. No problems. The upper intercooler pipe was SO COLD I was truly shocked. I had the sprayer on auto the entire time, straight water in the tank. That intercooler must not be too bad, the plumbing was just too cold for it to be junk.
The torque on the runs varied from 280's to 297 ft lbs on the best one.
As for cost of the package.
The entire exhaust system is $750.
MAS pipe with the filter is going to be around $200.
Upper i/c pipe with the BOV is going to be right around $300.
AFC is $325 with the settings and wiring instructions.
Boost controller is $75
Gauge with mount is $85
The battery kit (no HP gain, just 20 hp less and makes room for the rest of the parts) is $225.
I come up with a total of $1960. This isn't bad for a 90 hp increase over stock. With this kind of HP and a really good pass/driver the car is capable of running in the high 11's. Tym is going to give it a shot next week at the track.
Thanks for the interest,
David Buschur
Speedlimit ..........
Holy smokes, makes me wanna go out and get an EVO right away, but I'll wait for the 04'-05' model. Anyhow, my buddy is going evo shopping tomorrow.
i love evo's so much 
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You sure about the two wheel dyno? He said it was a major pain in the *** to do a clutch on one of these cars vs an Eclipse. I can't imagine him doing a tranny swap with so many 4wd dynos available now.
Thread Starter
Admin Emeritus
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 101
From: NR Reading PA
Originally posted by Zeus
You sure about the two wheel dyno? He said it was a major pain in the *** to do a clutch on one of these cars vs an Eclipse. I can't imagine him doing a tranny swap with so many 4wd dynos available now.
You sure about the two wheel dyno? He said it was a major pain in the *** to do a clutch on one of these cars vs an Eclipse. I can't imagine him doing a tranny swap with so many 4wd dynos available now.
It is a 2 wheel drive dynojet chassis dyno and they weld the viscous coupler to prevent from destroying it.
Speedlimit........
Last edited by Speedlimit; May 4, 2003 at 10:57 AM.
Originally posted by Speedlimit
Hi,
It is a 2 wheel dyno and what difference does the dyno type make? He doesn't care about the absolute number, just the increase or decrease.
Speedlimit..
Hi,
It is a 2 wheel dyno and what difference does the dyno type make? He doesn't care about the absolute number, just the increase or decrease.
Speedlimit..