I didnt start this thread to talk about twin discs. I want to get the facts out about the the ACT and see if it is actuall an ACT problem or if it happens to other brands aswell. If you have had lockout issues with the ACT, please post in here with any/all remidies. I will tell my friend about the fluid change.

Oh BTW...his car only has 25,000 on the clock.

 

Uhh you guys that are saying your ACT doesnt lock you out of gears, thats great and all, but its not true for all ACTs. Its not just a simple adjustment and it will fix it. Some get lucky with theres, I put my ACT clutch in, SS line and took pill out. I have to adjust it after every single run, and even then it STILL locks you out of gears sometimes. And when it does work, its not smooth at all. This is by far the WORST clutch I have ever driven with.

 

if you're getting "locked out" of gears at high rpms it has nothing to do with the clutch, the synchros are shot. drain the fluid and look to see how much metal is in the fluid and on the drain plug magnet. when he changes out the fluid, tell him to replace it with 2 parts BGII and 1 part Neo and to call Shep or TRE for a built tranny.

 

Thats pretty much what I was leaning towards!

Thanks for all the info guys!

 

All powerfull EVO's here in Greece all had problems with ACT. They all use Exedy triple plate carbon. ACT Blocks in every gear in high rpm. Personally i use Exedy triple plate (metallic) with no issues. I have almost the same power as you and kept it for 25,000 miles most of which were in Street racing.

 

+1

 

Exedy cerametallic clutch ftw!!!!

 

.....and what causes the synchros to wear out?

The synchronizers are designed to block the shift until various parts inside the transmission match speeds or, better put, until the speeds of the are synchronized.

If the clutch is dragging, warped or damaged in a way that keeps the clutch from not releasing enough your synchronizers will block the shift until speeds are synchronized.

This blocking of the shift will cause that notchy shifting or complete blocking of the shift and can even make the car hard to get into any gear while the engine is running. This blocking will also wear out the synchronizers in a hurry, making them less effective and that's when the crunchy shifts start to happen.

If the clutch is not releasing enough and the synchros block the shift yet the driver is hell bent on showing the transmission who is boss, one can actually damage the synchros and hub assembly and even break the teeth off the synchro or shatter the hub, I seen this sort of stuff from time to time and it doesn't happen at all when the clutch is properly adjusted and the driver is doing his job correctly.

Sorry about the highjack.

Which clutch? Jeez this is so easy....

Anything that has a torque capacity that is 10-15% more than what the engine makes yet is no higher than half of burst strength torque during a destructive load test (500ft.lbs) and lasts forever or at least long enough so the end user feels that they got their dollars worth. The clutch should have enough mass to absorb the heat energy so it will be able to resist warping or burning up the friction material and it should be properly constructed so it can deal with the abuse has plenty of release and a pedal pressure that isn't too objectionable.

If people followed these guidelines they will be very happy with their clutch purchase.

Jon@TRE

 

[QUOTE=GEARS If the clutch is not releasing enough and the synchros block the shift yet the driver is hell bent on showing the transmission who is boss, one can actually damage the synchros and hub assembly and even break the teeth off the synchro or shatter the hub, I seen this sort of stuff from time to time and it doesn't happen at all when the clutch is properly adjusted and the driver is doing his job correctly.[QUOTE]

this is what i was getting at...John just has a much better way of explaining it.

 

Uh! first time that I hear this. What I can tell you is this; I used to drive my car with a RPS twin Caarbon Clutch and the gears always were locked at higher rpms. I swap the RPS by a ACT Xtreme Disc w/pro light flywheel and my problem was finished!

No complains with the ACT so far! The RPS cost me $2.4K and the car never runned well. Message? Buy the ACT!

 

Just listen to GEARS advice as he is the transmission specialist.

 

id but the exedy. stage 2

 

 

ACT HDSS recommended. I have it, no lockout problems.

 

Bump....keep this thread alive, I want as much information out there as possible!

Anyone else have some input?