just wondering why a built motor would shooting the dipstick out at 21pounds of boost and it was broke in like it was suppose to be?

 

i would do a compresion test,but i had my motor rebuilt with new rods and piston and so on and when sean ivey tuned it on the dyno the dipstick came out a little bit,but never did it since.i run 23-24 psi.

 

compression test showed 160 to 170 on all 4 and the dipstick blowed out and blowed oil every where

 

It has to do with the boost, just crimp the dipstick a tiny bit to pinch it it was a big problem with the dsm crowd aswell

 

so that seems pretty good. i would crimp the dip stick tube for now or put bigger o ring on the dipstick i did that to.but i dont think it should be doing that with a rebuilt motor.

 

i agree, i dont think it should be doing that either

 

You guys are all wrong this is a common thing is not the boost its the added vibration you motor produces. Here is where motor mounts and harmanic dampaners take into play.


Vibration = Short life for your motor

 

so vibration shot oil all over his hood?

This happens when you have to much blowthru which is common on built motors. Use a ziptie/tight wrap on the dip stick to keep it down.

 

so this isnt boost pressurizing the crankcase? i dont see how vibration could cause oil to blow out of the dipstick....

 

Motor parts move as they move and move faster it will shoot up oil from the dipstick.


When you wipe down the dipstick thats the reason you wipe from top to bottom because oil get up there the thing is when you check you oil your car is not moveing and all the oil would have went right back down to the pan. Its common sence.

 

if you have BOOST pressurizing the crankcase, you have bigger problems than the oil "shooting" out of the dipstick tube.

let me take a guess here a second....i will bet you dont have a crankcase tube going back into the intake do you?? you have a little filter on the end of your valve cover because it looks koool??

the crankcase ventalation should be routed back into the intake to help seal the bottom side of the piston rings. it takes the crankcase "pressure" we will call it, and adds a vacuum to the crankcase so that the windage doesnt cause the dipstick to pop out because of the built up pressure.

think about it for a second. the crank, pistons, and rods are flying around at XXXXrpm. as they swing, there is that slight "wind" that they cause. now take that up to 3800-8k rpm(at your 21psi) it will cause the "boost pressurization" phenomenon you speak of.

get a catch can, route one tube back into the intake and attach the other to the valve cover. you may also need to attach the second one also to the catch can. you may not be ventalating enough/fast enough.

good luck.

 

we are all wrong and you think vibration causes the dipstick to shoot out of the motor.wow

 

all a catch can does is prevent blow by from entering the engine. So i dont see how ventalating the head will release pressure in the crankcase, because last time i checked the piston rings have a pretty decent seal. Just crimp the dipstick tube and call it a day.

 

I agree with badhabit, seems like there is a problem with the pcv system, which is what actually relieves pressure from the crankcase, I use to have that happen on my honda.

 

a "catch can" CATCHES THE AIRBORNE OIL BEFORE ENTERING THE TURBINE/INTAKE TRACT. it does NOT prevent blow by from entering the engine.


dont understand this one-"So i dont see how ventalating the head will release pressure in the crankcase, because last time i checked the piston rings have a pretty decent seal."

take a tank with a 1/4" hose and try to put a fire out with it. a big fire. now take a tank with a 1" hose and put the same fire out with it. yeah, the big fire. which tank will be empty first?? fluid dynamics...

your right about the piston rings...however as someone stated about boost...

so how is it that BOOST is pressurizing the crank case then?? (as someone pointed out. ) it is true that a VERY MINIMAL AMOUNT will get past the rings as do in ANY combustion engine. there are different ring gaps that have to be addressed for different purposes. for example, if you are using nitrous the ring gap will be .012 for the top ring. if you are using high compression with no power adders, then the top ring would be .010 for a given application.

IF the ring gaps are incorrect, then you have a problem. the set up of rings on the piston have to be set a certain direction also. the second ring should be 180' from the top ring-from the thrust side.

but im sure you already know this info...