riceball777

iTrader: (33)

how safe is the 1 by 1 head studs install. i would think that this is a really bad idea. i know the correct way is to pull the head off and install a new head gasket.
but i see and hear about so many ppl that just instaill the head studs 1 at a time with out pull the the head.

how safe is this? wont theere be a chance of the head warping. has anyone does this meatheod and had problems??

Jackson Machine

iTrader: (9)

Doing it that way is no different than re-using a head gasket. Once it's un-torqued it's junk. The head has to come off.

Pd1

iTrader: (38)

Anything is possible, but I think the vast majority of those who experience head gasket leaks after doing ARP studs without removing the cylinder head could have avoided their misfortune by using the proper install procedure.

Here's how I did mine:

1.) On a completely cold engine, remove valve cover.

2.) Remove the intake-side bolt near the #1 cylinder. (I'll attach an image which details the order of removal/installation)
*Do not force any of these bolts out. A couple of them may appear to snag while you're removing them, but don't force anything. They will come out without force...trust me. I found that using a magnet and just wiggling the bolts around allowed them to pull right out. Again, don't force or pry anything during this procedure.

3.) Use some carb cleaner, or other solvent, to ensure that the threads on the ARP stud are clean and apply some assembly lube to the nut side of the stud only. The nut side of the stud is indicated by an allen wrench socket on the end.

4.) Thread the ARP stud into the block by hand, and then use the supplied allen wrench to ensure that the stud is bottomed out. It will be obvious when the stud bottoms out. Don't torque down on the stud -- it just needs to be seated, not tight.

5.) Place one of the supplied washers atop the recently-installed stud. Again, a magnet may be useful here.

6.) Thread one of the supplied nuts onto the stud and tighten to 35 ft/lbs (using a torque wrench, of course).

7.) Loosen the nut. (We're stretching the studs to ensure a trouble-free install.)

8.) Tighten the nut to 65 ft/lbs.

9.) Loosen the nut.

10.) Tighten the nut to 75 ft/lbs.

11.) Move on to the #2 bolt as indicated by the attached diagram and repeat steps 2 through 10.

12.) Once you've replaced all of the head bolts with studs, go back through the same removal/install pattern and torque each nut down to 85 ft/lbs. (Optional: It doesn't hurt to double-check your final torque.)

13.) Reinstall valve cover.

l2r99gst

iTrader: (2)

If you are going to attempt the 1by 1 method, the pattern shown above is incorrect. It is exactly opposite of that.

The pattern shown above is the pattern uses to remove a head. Installation of a head is the reverse. The 1 by 1 method should be treated as an installation, so that any minor flexing of the head can be worked from the middle to the outside. Doing it the way shown would leave nowhere for any minor flexing to go at the last stud, so you would have a sealing issue with the head to the block. This is probably why some people experiece leaking problems and some don't.

Nonetheless, the proper way is to remove the head.


Eric

Spec'd

iTrader: (16)

+1

Pd1

iTrader: (38)

Ideally, sure, the head would be taken off the car to do the head stud install. However, there's probably 100+ people on this board who have done the 1-by-1 method that I described above with no problems whatsoever. Is it a risk? Yes. Is there a high likelihood that you'll have a problem properly doing it 1-by-1? No.

mac_05evo

iTrader: (20)

I did the 1-by-1 method and have yet to have any problems as of now (knock on wood). I installed mine similar to PD1 but as someone else said used the install pattern..

riceball777

iTrader: (33)

right now i'm making 315whp. i have hks 272's, hks intake, full 3" tbe, and i'm boosting 20 psi. my goal is to make 400whp on 91 octane. so i was planing on geting a tubular t3 manifold (peakboost or full race) and a gt3076r.

should i even mess with the head studs or do you guys think stock head bolts will be fine for my setup.

thebluesky

iTrader: (28)

It would probably be a good idea to do the headstuds with that setup. WHile you could probably be okay without them, it would be that much more insurance against something happening outside of tuning. Also, doing it the ral way instead of the one-by-one method really isn't all that bad nor time consuming as one would think, assuming you're confortable enough working on cars.

dubbleugly01

iTrader: (24)

have you ever taken off the stock intake manifold?

dubbleugly01

iTrader: (24)

I trust your opinion, but help educate me (and possibly others). Per ARP, when using a torque wrench (I don't know of a way you can check bolt stretch on a head stud), you are supposed to preload and unload 5 times with their lube, to reduce the friction between the stud and bolt, and get an accurate torque. So how is the head gasket not "junk" by following ARP's install instructions?

That's the logic I used to help decide to do the one by one method. The spacing between head bolts isn't that great, and on a bone cold engine, I'm not convinced the gasket seal is ever broken.

thebluesky

iTrader: (28)

You don't have to when you're doing this. Once you remove those bolts that brace the intake manifold to the engine, it all comes up without any issues.