results from tuning my IX!
personally i don't replace parts just because i've moved beyond OEM. i would never do it because a salesman or shop told me to either. if that were the case we wouldn't be using the stock internals either now would we? we would all have fully built engines with stock turbos.
Last edited by Kee1pride; Jan 10, 2007 at 12:08 PM.
question, have either of you ever bench tested a head stud to check its yield strength? it would be awsome to get an engineering student to compare a stock head stud to an aftermarket headstud. anyone have an instron in their garage?
personally i don't replace parts just because i've moved beyond OEM. i would never do it because a salesman or shop told me to either. if that were the case we wouldn't be using the stock internals either now would we? we would all have fully built engines with stock turbos.
personally i don't replace parts just because i've moved beyond OEM. i would never do it because a salesman or shop told me to either. if that were the case we wouldn't be using the stock internals either now would we? we would all have fully built engines with stock turbos.
Answer: I had my stock headstuds stretch while running just 21psi and my head gasket went. It CAN happen.
This is not an argument, some of us just want to save other members the headache of having to pull the head. A $90 investment with minimal install time is well worth the piece of mind you'll have.
If you consider heeding the advice of those who have actually been building the 4g63 for years giving in to sales tactics then we will have to agree to disagree
Last edited by mitsuorder; Jan 10, 2007 at 12:52 PM.
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i don't know what setting it is at right now, i just need to play with it today and try to get it down some.
I was told by AMS that the stock IX gasket is a 6 ply metal gasket vs. the VIII's 3 ply but that's the only difference I know of pertaining to this matter. On a side note, I was also told by AMS while they were in S.A. that they are now using the IX gasket on VIII's...
sorry oh wise one.
lets see, mistuorder blew his head gasket because of what he claimed was stretching stock headstuds at only 21 psi. sense that is stock psi for a 9, i think we can safely say its not because the headstuds stretched, it was because of a ****ty tune causing detonation (which i think you will find is the case in 90% of headgasket failures). and mistuorder, if you honestly believe it was because of the studs, and not the tune, let me tell you of a engineering phrase known as "factor of safety". basically it says, if you design a part, you design it to do its job + a little bit stronger just in case (in many cases it is 2-3 times stronger then it needs to be). you think the factor of safety on the engine is so small that running 2 psi more then stock on a 8 stretched those studs? u-huh. mitsu engineers are smarter then that.
next, installing the ARP headstuds 1 at a time is taking a big risk to begin with. the proper way to install them is to remove the head, clean threads, install studs, REPLACE GASKET, reinstall head. if you want to call replacing headstuds via 1 at a time method a garanteed way of eliminating blown headgaskets, you are gravely mistaken. by not installing the aftermarket studs properly in the first place, you have already brought the likelyhood of failure up as high and most likely higher then it was with just sticking with the stock studs. doing headstuds is not a " quick and easy" install if you do it right. maybe it is if you half-*** everything on your car.
if you are shooting for big numbers, and want to run really high boost, then absolutely, take the head off, put a better headgasket in, replace the headstuds with aftermarket ones, and build engine accordingly. if you are simply running mild mods, and adding a little boost as long as the tune is safe, it is not necessary.
Answer: I had my stock headstuds stretch while running just 21psi and my head gasket went. It CAN happen.
This is not an argument, some of us just want to save other members the headache of having to pull the head. A $90 investment with minimal install time is well worth the piece of mind you'll have.
If you consider heeding the advice of those who have actually been building the 4g63 for years giving in to sales tactics then we will have to agree to disagree
This is not an argument, some of us just want to save other members the headache of having to pull the head. A $90 investment with minimal install time is well worth the piece of mind you'll have.
If you consider heeding the advice of those who have actually been building the 4g63 for years giving in to sales tactics then we will have to agree to disagree
sorry oh wise one.
lets see, mistuorder blew his head gasket because of what he claimed was stretching stock headstuds at only 21 psi. sense that is stock psi for a 9, i think we can safely say its not because the headstuds stretched, it was because of a ****ty tune causing detonation (which i think you will find is the case in 90% of headgasket failures). and mistuorder, if you honestly believe it was because of the studs, and not the tune, let me tell you of a engineering phrase known as "factor of safety". basically it says, if you design a part, you design it to do its job + a little bit stronger just in case (in many cases it is 2-3 times stronger then it needs to be). you think the factor of safety on the engine is so small that running 2 psi more then stock on a 8 stretched those studs? u-huh. mitsu engineers are smarter then that.
next, installing the ARP headstuds 1 at a time is taking a big risk to begin with. the proper way to install them is to remove the head, clean threads, install studs, REPLACE GASKET, reinstall head. if you want to call replacing headstuds via 1 at a time method a garanteed way of eliminating blown headgaskets, you are gravely mistaken. by not installing the aftermarket studs properly in the first place, you have already brought the likelyhood of failure up as high and most likely higher then it was with just sticking with the stock studs. doing headstuds is not a " quick and easy" install if you do it right. maybe it is if you half-*** everything on your car.
if you are shooting for big numbers, and want to run really high boost, then absolutely, take the head off, put a better headgasket in, replace the headstuds with aftermarket ones, and build engine accordingly. if you are simply running mild mods, and adding a little boost as long as the tune is safe, it is not necessary.
lets see, mistuorder blew his head gasket because of what he claimed was stretching stock headstuds at only 21 psi. sense that is stock psi for a 9, i think we can safely say its not because the headstuds stretched, it was because of a ****ty tune causing detonation (which i think you will find is the case in 90% of headgasket failures). and mistuorder, if you honestly believe it was because of the studs, and not the tune, let me tell you of a engineering phrase known as "factor of safety". basically it says, if you design a part, you design it to do its job + a little bit stronger just in case (in many cases it is 2-3 times stronger then it needs to be). you think the factor of safety on the engine is so small that running 2 psi more then stock on a 8 stretched those studs? u-huh. mitsu engineers are smarter then that.
next, installing the ARP headstuds 1 at a time is taking a big risk to begin with. the proper way to install them is to remove the head, clean threads, install studs, REPLACE GASKET, reinstall head. if you want to call replacing headstuds via 1 at a time method a garanteed way of eliminating blown headgaskets, you are gravely mistaken. by not installing the aftermarket studs properly in the first place, you have already brought the likelyhood of failure up as high and most likely higher then it was with just sticking with the stock studs. doing headstuds is not a " quick and easy" install if you do it right. maybe it is if you half-*** everything on your car.
if you are shooting for big numbers, and want to run really high boost, then absolutely, take the head off, put a better headgasket in, replace the headstuds with aftermarket ones, and build engine accordingly. if you are simply running mild mods, and adding a little boost as long as the tune is safe, it is not necessary.
Both methods of install have been proven. Zeus did his one at a time and I did mine with the head off both cars are healthy examples of sucessful installs. Do you really think Buschur would do the one at a time method if they felt it was unsafe? With the influx of do it yourself tuners we currently have we will undoubtedly see higher failure rates such as I experienced in the past. Can you cool your heels and just agree to disagree?
