well i have a clutchmasters stage 4 (4 puck) and everytime i try to shift really fast or power shift it locks me out . so i want to know what may be causing this .

it doesnt do it all the time is just kind of like once in a while and i want to know what i can do to stop it, i have about 3k miles on it and it just doesnt go away, also its really hard to shift to 4th while at wot .

anything you guys think i should do please let me know.

thanx

 

we adjusted the clutch up pretty high since thats usually a good cure....]


bump!

 

you even told me it was pretty high already and somehow it still locks me out , you saw it for yourself when it did it to you ... i dont know man i think i should just get a new clutch like an act or something , this clutch is just giving me a hard time

 

ACT is only a touch better...single plates does that...get locked out too...have gone on a triple plate now...or a twin plate also works better..

 

^^ thanx , the only problem with the twin plate is how expensive they are but i may just suck it up for a while with this one and save for a twin and dont worry about it anymore

 

single plate clutches lock out often man, go with a twin

 

Says the vendor. lol. Why not just say "Buy my item. It is better."

Do you have a SS clutch line? Is the restrictor pill removed? Did you try bleeding the line? Also try to adjust the clutch more.

 

Bleed the clutch over and over again. Here is a tip:

hook up a clear plastic tube to the bleed nipple. Have a friend pump the pedal while you watch the fluid and refill the reservoir. If you see ANY bubbles at all coming out of the tube, this means you still have air in the line, and you need to keep bleeding. Air in the lines will cause you to get locked out. Good luck. Make sure you have the pedal adjusted correctly as well.

 

I'm having this exact same problem with my ACT-HDSS right now. it never used to do that at all for the first 10k miles on it. i don't think it's going because it doesnt slip any. it just locks out in high rpm quick shifts. my friends and i bled my brakes over the weekend but not the clutch line. im told they share the same resuvior so i really need to do that next. anyhow my brake fluid, unchanged for 43k miles, was nasty dark brown with tiny particles in it. if that doesnt work, then im buying everything i can think of that will help me shift faster. ie: bushings, motor mounts, ss clutch lines, engine dampner, etc. if that doesn't work... then i guess ill suck it up and buy a twin. really really dont want to though.

 

ahmmmmm do I work for exedy? Cusco? Hks? Tilton? Carbonetics? NO I dont. Did I say buy a twin from me?? NO I dont care where he buys it from.

I had a 2005 evo 8. I tried ACT first and it was a great clutch but it was kind of annoying have to adjust it to shift at high rpm. Some people get it to work some dont. I then had an exedy twin carbon HD, then an exedy triple ceremetallic

In my 2006 evo I have an exedy HD twin and I love it. I rev the car to 9k and it shifts great. I've driven tilton carbon twins, tilton ceremetallic twins, sd twins, hd twins, act's, clutchmasters, stock pretty much all of them. Twins shift better. reason being:

Single disc clutches have larger overall diameters which puts more inertia on the input shaft when the motor spins at high rpms. twins have smaller diameters but more contact patch due to 2 discs. Triples are usually even smaller.

Why do you think INDy cars have to have a minimum of a 2-3 disc clutch? They can even more then that, 4-5-6 discs less then 4 inches in diameter. This is because they shift alot faster at 16k rpm etc...



Please dont offend me saying i'm being BIAS. I'm very very Non bias and I have alot of experience with evos so I was offering my personal advice. To the poster of the thread a twin disc would be a better clutch no matter where you get it from

 

Agreed. Twins are better for shifting at high RPM, and are better for holding high amounts of torque. Pretty much better all around. I have NEVER had a problem getting locked out or missing gears with my twin.

 

the combination of shifter bushings, shifter base bushings, clutch line, engine damper, and front motor mount has completely eliminated all shifting problems my car had. i have a ACT HD single plate...

all that and the clutch were still less then half the price of a twin, plus no clutch chatter

 

How heavy is your pedal now?

 

when i first put it in it was noticably heavier, but i don't even notice it anymore. regardless, it is still lighter then my porsche was.... haha

 

I won't offend you by saying you are bias (don't care if you are or not) but I probably risk offending you by saying that you don't know what you are talking about... Experience does not always equal understanding. Please try not to be offended, but your ignorance is showing.

1. Indy cars don't require the clutch while shifting so disengagement/lockout/clutch size is irrelevant! Indy cars, Nascars, and many other race cars with clutches shifting transmissions have multiple discs because they can mimimize the inertia of the assembly for insane throttle response. Usually the only time the clutch pedal is used is leaving the pits and the puny Indy car clutches you refer to are so super sensitive that if you slip the clutch just a little too much leaving the pits, the clutch is done. This is why the driver generally dumps the clutch and break the tires loose rather than slip the clutch. The drivers know the limitation of the clutch and they adjust their driving to accomodate.

2. Do you really think that two spring center 6 puck creamic discs have less inertia than only one slightly larger spring center disc (225 versus 240mm)? I don't think so! What about how light a single solid center 6 puck disc is?

3. "Better" is relative. Every clutch has it's tradeoffs and recommending a twin disc to everyone is irresponsible IMO. For instance the Exedy twin is very durable, holds good power, and shifts well. But it is also expensive, loud (gear and floater noise), and it chatters a bit more than many wish to tolerate on a street car, so it is not for everyone. We have had many customers who owned twin discs clutches switch to our single disc to get a clutch better suited to their needs.

4. In most cases inadequate air gap (space between the disc and mating surface) is the sole reason for lockout, regardless of size or number of discs. The required air gap increases with increased rpm. Adjusting the rod at the master cylinder is the most affective way to increase air gap. Many times the effective air gap will be reduced because of warpage (damage) from overheating a clutch. When a clutch becomes hard to shift especially after a hard drag race or other possible abuse then it is usually because of warpage. This is true on single discs or multiplate clutches. You can try to adjust it out and usually see the needed improvement. But if the warpage is too severe, then the only choice is to have the clutch and flywheel resurfaced or replaced. It may be more difficult to overheat a twin because of increased surface area but it still happens regularly. The only clutch that is not suseptible to this would be the carbon/carbon Tilton because no matter how hot you get it, the surfaces will not warp.

Steve, I don't wish to flame you, but I felt your comments were misleading.