AMS's WICKED 23rr Install pix
Apr 10, 2008, 08:21 PM
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AMS's WICKED 23rr Install pix
I am doing on a big build on an Evo 9 and took a few minuets to snap some pictures to help others with the install of the AMS 23rr motor.
There are several modifications needed to be made due to the custom AMS spec deck height. Pictures say a thousand words so lets get to the pictures!
The factory hole in the front cam gear shield used to access the tensioner with the AMS tensioner tool is not in the right spot any more. Trying to use this hole in the future could lead to cross threaded tensioner tools. To avoid this situation, use a pair of tin snips to cut the hole into a slot as shown.
The water pipe running along the back of the block will need a couple of washers to attach it properly to the water outlet. Position the pipe as high up as you can in the back of the block and bolt it to the block.
You can see the gap at the water outlet.
Two washers are perfect to fill the gap here.
Setting up the cam timing is a little different. The timing marks on the cam gears need to be moved counter clockwise half a tooth.
Because the cams are pulled slightly forward due to the custom deck height, you will need to retard the cams 3.75 degrees to get them to "factory" position.
This is what it looks like on a MIVEC cam gear.
On an Evo 9, the MIVEC feed line will need to be bent slightly to get it to line up with the feed hole in the block. A few tweeks and the banjo bolt slips right in.
The lower timing cover upper most holes will no longer line up with the bolt holes in the cam gear shields. The new custom water pump also has no bolt hole for the cover. Bolting on the upper cover holds it all in place so dont worry about the missing bolts. I suppose it would be possible to trim the upper ears down for clearance for bolts and it could then be sandwiched between the upper cover and the cam gear shields. I may try that tomorrow.
On an Evo 9, the alternator bracket also bolts to the water pump. The new custom pump has no provisions for this bolt. This bolt is no longer used.
The water pump pulley gets shimmed out slightly with the spacer supplied with the motor.
The intake manifold support bracket needs to be shimmed to fit properly. This motor is running the AMS VSR intake (shown in picture). The factory bracket would need to be shimmed similarly.
The turbo support bracket will need to be slotted to bolt to the block.
The dipstick tube will not push completely into the boss in the block. Bending the bracket slightly allows it to fully seat in the block.
After all that work, you are going to want to put the best turbo kit on your wicked new motor. AMS fits that bill perfectly.
The AMS VSR intake manifold is the perfect match for the 23rr motor.
AMS FTW with one stop shopping!!!
There are several modifications needed to be made due to the custom AMS spec deck height. Pictures say a thousand words so lets get to the pictures!
The factory hole in the front cam gear shield used to access the tensioner with the AMS tensioner tool is not in the right spot any more. Trying to use this hole in the future could lead to cross threaded tensioner tools. To avoid this situation, use a pair of tin snips to cut the hole into a slot as shown.
The water pipe running along the back of the block will need a couple of washers to attach it properly to the water outlet. Position the pipe as high up as you can in the back of the block and bolt it to the block.
You can see the gap at the water outlet.
Two washers are perfect to fill the gap here.
Setting up the cam timing is a little different. The timing marks on the cam gears need to be moved counter clockwise half a tooth.
Because the cams are pulled slightly forward due to the custom deck height, you will need to retard the cams 3.75 degrees to get them to "factory" position.
This is what it looks like on a MIVEC cam gear.
On an Evo 9, the MIVEC feed line will need to be bent slightly to get it to line up with the feed hole in the block. A few tweeks and the banjo bolt slips right in.
The lower timing cover upper most holes will no longer line up with the bolt holes in the cam gear shields. The new custom water pump also has no bolt hole for the cover. Bolting on the upper cover holds it all in place so dont worry about the missing bolts. I suppose it would be possible to trim the upper ears down for clearance for bolts and it could then be sandwiched between the upper cover and the cam gear shields. I may try that tomorrow.
On an Evo 9, the alternator bracket also bolts to the water pump. The new custom pump has no provisions for this bolt. This bolt is no longer used.
The water pump pulley gets shimmed out slightly with the spacer supplied with the motor.
The intake manifold support bracket needs to be shimmed to fit properly. This motor is running the AMS VSR intake (shown in picture). The factory bracket would need to be shimmed similarly.
The turbo support bracket will need to be slotted to bolt to the block.
The dipstick tube will not push completely into the boss in the block. Bending the bracket slightly allows it to fully seat in the block.
After all that work, you are going to want to put the best turbo kit on your wicked new motor. AMS fits that bill perfectly.
The AMS VSR intake manifold is the perfect match for the 23rr motor.
AMS FTW with one stop shopping!!!
Last edited by Ivan@AMS; Apr 10, 2008 at 08:26 PM.
Apr 10, 2008, 09:03 PM
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Alright, I'm going to sound like a wuss here, but ----
How much would I have to pay AMS to do all this install work?
I'm afraid that much modification is beyond my skills, currently.
How much would I have to pay AMS to do all this install work?
I'm afraid that much modification is beyond my skills, currently.
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Apr 11, 2008, 06:30 PM
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I got the car up and running today. Purrs like a kitten. We will be breaking it in and then will put it on the dyno to get another dyno chart which shows what the gains of the motor alone are.
The mods before and after the motor are AMS GT30 kit, AMS VSR intake, GSC S1 cams, AMS turbo back with HFC, AMS FMIC, AMS LIPK, AMS UIPK with Tial BOV, AMS MBC, 880cc injectors with AEM EMS controlling the mix.
The motor is the only thing changed. It went from stock to the 23rr.
Once we get the before / after motor dyno finished, we will be swapping to S2 cams, GT35 turbo and 1000cc injectors.
The mods before and after the motor are AMS GT30 kit, AMS VSR intake, GSC S1 cams, AMS turbo back with HFC, AMS FMIC, AMS LIPK, AMS UIPK with Tial BOV, AMS MBC, 880cc injectors with AEM EMS controlling the mix.
The motor is the only thing changed. It went from stock to the 23rr.
Once we get the before / after motor dyno finished, we will be swapping to S2 cams, GT35 turbo and 1000cc injectors.
Apr 22, 2008, 10:53 AM
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Time for some results!!!!
Some facts about the before and after dyno runs below.
The boost hungry 23RR was eating more boost than I could supply with just the manual boost controller that we were using on the stock motor. AEM Boost Control to the rescue! I checked the old logs from the last time I tuned the car and saw that it was holding 22psi at redline. Knowing this, I used the AEM to add duty cycle to the solenoid as the RPM's increased to keep our same boost level, resulting in a rock solid 22psi once again.
Fueling obviously had to be increased dramatically to help cope with the amount of air that the motor is drawing in. I had to add quite a bit of fuel in the 5500 to 7000 area where the top end of this motor was really shining. In addition to this, you can see that the motor is ALSO spooling a good 400-500 rpms earlier and making more torque EVERYWHERE! At 4000 rpms, we are making 100ft lbs MORE torque than with the stock motor. Very impressive.
Every change that I had to make in the AEM spoke volumes about the efficiency of this motor. This ‘little’ turbo is killing our power production right now and I can’t wait to see what Its going to do with the new cams, bigger injectors and a 35R!
Some facts about the before and after dyno runs below.
The boost hungry 23RR was eating more boost than I could supply with just the manual boost controller that we were using on the stock motor. AEM Boost Control to the rescue! I checked the old logs from the last time I tuned the car and saw that it was holding 22psi at redline. Knowing this, I used the AEM to add duty cycle to the solenoid as the RPM's increased to keep our same boost level, resulting in a rock solid 22psi once again.
Fueling obviously had to be increased dramatically to help cope with the amount of air that the motor is drawing in. I had to add quite a bit of fuel in the 5500 to 7000 area where the top end of this motor was really shining. In addition to this, you can see that the motor is ALSO spooling a good 400-500 rpms earlier and making more torque EVERYWHERE! At 4000 rpms, we are making 100ft lbs MORE torque than with the stock motor. Very impressive.
Every change that I had to make in the AEM spoke volumes about the efficiency of this motor. This ‘little’ turbo is killing our power production right now and I can’t wait to see what Its going to do with the new cams, bigger injectors and a 35R!