ive been reading about where and how to ground the lc-1 wideband and can never get a solid answer. some say ecu ground, others say it doesnt matter while others argue its very sensitive.

my question is what if all the grounds from the lc-1 where soldered to one ring and put on a decent grounded bolt, and then several other wires from other different ground points welded to another ring and put on the same bolt, would that work?
kind of like a small grounding kit under your dash. it sounds like a bit of a hassel but if it gets accurate reading and the lc-1 works with no problems then why not.
any input welcome.

 

all i did was cut the insulation back so it exposed more wire so i was able to find 3 differnt ground points.. yea i too dident understand why its soo necessary to do so but i did n e way just so i dident have n e problems. as to your original question i dotn see why a common ground point wouldent work its all being grounded to the frame of the car n e ways

 

where exactly did you ground it?
i can kind of understand why it need to be a good ground because they talk about noise and some places do have less resistance than others...

 

all my wireing was done behind the glove box when u take it out you will see a few points to ground it. like the beam that supports the dash up high has a few but take a look there and you shoudl find what u need

 

I grounded mine to the engine block using the bolt just above the exhaust manifold. Yeah, I know that's quite a length, but it's probably the best ground for the LC-1, and it's operated flawlessly since I installed it. Just FYI.

 

did you extend the grounds out? i was planning on running everything under the passenger seat.

 

LC1 heater ground (blue) to block with it's own lug and location. All other grounds (LC1 and other systems that don't carry high load) can go to block on seperate lugs but same location.

 

thats the way i also did it. works great hidden under the carpet/under the seat

 

Went from a frame ground to a battery ground and it cured my WOT freezing issue.

 

i grounded all the grounds from the lc1 and the titan gauge to a grounding point behind my radio works fine.

 

Ground to any solid piece of metal. Scrape paint just to make sure. If your worried of having stronger ground points than others (like most cars will have anyway) just buy or make a DIY grounding kit. I cheaply made one and added an additional 4 grounding points through out the engine bay for better grounding (needed to decrease resistance to my HID ballast so it wouldn't flicker on the passenger side. Which is farthest away from the battery main grounding point). Easy fix for me. Should solve any grounding problems you may have around the firewall as well especially for interior grounding.

 

this is what im asking will work in the first post right?
one lug from the lc1 on 1 bolt and almost like 4 wires from a second lug on that bold going to 4 other grounding locations?
no problems what-so-ever?

 

You're fine with what you're doing. The only way grounding becomes sensitive is if you use the analog output to log AFR data, due to grounding frequency interference.