My 4G64 block after machine work *PICS*
very interesting build....I've actually though about trying something like this out if my current engine ever goes "kaboom" lol
honestly since 4g64 blocks are so cheap, I'd kinda like to buy one and start building it now internals and everything so I'd have a spare motor. BUT I'm afraid i'd have to worry about the bores rusting some since it would probably be a long time before I'd need the engine.
honestly since 4g64 blocks are so cheap, I'd kinda like to buy one and start building it now internals and everything so I'd have a spare motor. BUT I'm afraid i'd have to worry about the bores rusting some since it would probably be a long time before I'd need the engine.
Last edited by Johnboy1065; Jan 27, 2009 at 12:30 AM.
In this case, I'm actually using a factory MLS gasket AND the o-ringed block. Like the stopper within a MLS gasket, the o-ring will provide more contact pressure on the head/block to help seal combustion pressure. The material used for the o-ring, the amount it protrudes from the deck of the block and the clamping load of the head fasteners will determine how much pressure is applied. The copper o-ring on my block protrudes about .007" above the deck. If there is too much o-ring above the deck, it will be difficult to crush and potentially cause sealing problems. In this case, it should be just right.
very interesting build....I've actually though about trying something like this out if my current engine ever goes "kaboom" lol
honestly since 4g64 blocks are so cheap, I'd kinda like to buy one and start building it now internals and everything so I'd have a spare motor. BUT I'm afraid i'd have to worry about the bores rusting some since it would probably be a long time before I'd need the engine.
honestly since 4g64 blocks are so cheap, I'd kinda like to buy one and start building it now internals and everything so I'd have a spare motor. BUT I'm afraid i'd have to worry about the bores rusting some since it would probably be a long time before I'd need the engine.
i wont take it over 8000k. I actually built one for my TSI talon a year ago.
SeanC
your build looks great-'cept one thing....ATI Superdamper. too many issues with that from other forum members. just check your accessory belt and make sure it is the right length....
your build looks great-'cept one thing....ATI Superdamper. too many issues with that from other forum members. just check your accessory belt and make sure it is the right length....
Last edited by badhabit90; Jan 29, 2009 at 10:40 PM. Reason: accessory instead of timing belt duh
I have heard of people running a regular EVO timing belt with no issues. Me personally, I used the belt from a 94 Galant GS. It was the only 4G64 offered in DOHC as far as I know. That belt worked perfect for me. I wanted to try the stock GS cam gears too, but I wasnt that daring, especially since I already had adjustables.
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I'll be using a 4G64 DOHC belt.
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AMS has bored out gaskets, but you must o-ring the block to seal properly
whoops, sorry, i was speaking of the accessory belt and NOT the timing belt.....sorry sorry....beers for everyone...
i wasnt speaking of fitment, i was speaking of the accessory belt length. i realize that many people dont check crank snout diameters before the crank pulley has to be "pressed" on. with the correct sizing, it shouldnt have to be "pressed" on the crank snout.
there was a member on here just recently that had an issue that the belt didnt seem to fit quite right for some reason. come to find out, the new ATI damper was slightly larger and his belt was to small. he had to go back to an autoparts store to find a belt that would fit.
in the domestic world, the ATI dampers werent as good as the Fluidampr. the benefit of the ATI is the ability to rebuild them and change them for an application.
this is just for reference...
FYI..Curt Brown uses one on his car and seems to run well. i personally have a Fluidampr aluminum version and noticed that the rev range is much smoother up top than before.
I doubt I'll have a problem that I can't solve...ATI dampers are pretty simple. They have different o-rings you can use for different applications. In some cases it may require some tuning for your engine. Also, it's important that the hub for the ATI damper is press fit correctly (about .0009" is ok). I doubt many people who installed the ATI damper actually checked the hub ID and crank snout OD to verify there was the proper press fit. Furthermore, if it was not quite right...how many people do you think actually had the crank pulley honed to the correct size?I'm using a proper dial bore gauge to measure the crank pulley and nice micrometer to check the snout. I'll post my results.
I'll be using a 4G64 DOHC belt.
I'll be using a 4G64 DOHC belt.
there was a member on here just recently that had an issue that the belt didnt seem to fit quite right for some reason. come to find out, the new ATI damper was slightly larger and his belt was to small. he had to go back to an autoparts store to find a belt that would fit.
in the domestic world, the ATI dampers werent as good as the Fluidampr. the benefit of the ATI is the ability to rebuild them and change them for an application.
this is just for reference...
I don't have an aftermarket balancer on my EVO for one and after building small block Chevy's for 14 years I can tell you that a Fluidamper does not "run out" of balance as heat rises. The local team that I built the stroker 406 small blocks for, my own personal stroker 421, and the numerous other engines that I have torn down and rebuilt after going through either many miles or a grueling drag race season all have shown absolutly no significant signs of premature wear and the main bearings and cranks have looked outstanding saying what some of these engines have gone through. The few engines that I used the ATI on were still in good shape but had more wear than the engines that used the Fluidamper. I'm only talking on my own personal experience and what I have seen first hand in my 14 years building some wicked mouse motors.
BTW, I have never actually seen or heard of any of my fellow engine builders or race teams that I associated with back in the day that used the ATI go 10 years without having to replace the rings. As a matter of fact one race team that ran a 415 mouse had an ATI fly apart at the end of their 8.17 pass, it pretty much destroyed the engine. Their 10,000 dollar engine was reduced to a worthless pile of junk in a matter of seconds. They failed to rebuild the balancer because they did'nt think it needed to be - the balancer was about 2 years old.
BTW, I have never actually seen or heard of any of my fellow engine builders or race teams that I associated with back in the day that used the ATI go 10 years without having to replace the rings. As a matter of fact one race team that ran a 415 mouse had an ATI fly apart at the end of their 8.17 pass, it pretty much destroyed the engine. Their 10,000 dollar engine was reduced to a worthless pile of junk in a matter of seconds. They failed to rebuild the balancer because they did'nt think it needed to be - the balancer was about 2 years old.
FYI..Curt Brown uses one on his car and seems to run well. i personally have a Fluidampr aluminum version and noticed that the rev range is much smoother up top than before.
Last edited by badhabit90; Jan 29, 2009 at 10:39 PM.
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From: S. California
http://www.atiracing.com/images/dampercharts/dchart.gif
Arrington Race Engines
Bill Davis Racing
Dale Earnhart, Inc.
Evernham Motor Sports
Hendrick Motorsports
Penske-Jasper Racing
Joe Gibbs Racing
Katech-GM
Richard Childress Racing
Signature Race Engines
Sterling Race Engines
Roush-Yates Racing
Again, if I have any belt fitment problems, etc. I'll post the solution.
