Blew OEM head gasket the other night. It happened about a mile a way from home. watched the temp gauge go up and immediately stopped the car. Let it cool down and drove it a couple hundred yards and let it cool down again. Repeated this cycle until I got home. Checked under oil cap and saw milky oil.

At a minimum what else needs to be done other than replacing headgasket, studs, and resurfacing head? would the rod bearings be ok? how do I go about cleaning the old oil off the block?

I believe I can tackle this job on my own if I take my time. Just need you guy's input on what I should do.

thanks.

 

parts list..
cosworth head gasket
cosworth head studs or ARP
new valve cover gasket and spark plug gaskets

remove head (I took mine off with turbo and intakes on)
take head to good mach. shop and have checked. VERY important..it got hot so head might have distorted a little.

put new gasket and head back on AFTER you clean the crap out of the combustion chaimber and piston tops. For combustion chaimber I used a rag with brakleen and began rubbing and rubbing..used aircraft remover for the piston tops..(its in a blue can with a plane on it)
Just be mindful of where you put things when removing them and what bolt went where.
also you will need the tensioner tool to take pressure off the timing belt. I ziptied the belt to the cam gears..read the DIY section for that. Or is that and old 2g trick?
I prefer the cosworth head studs the came with torque specs, pattern to follow and the molley lube for the nuts.

 

thx for the advice. any idea how I clean the coolant/oil from the block? can I just flush it. run the motor and flush it again.

 

Stock headgasket is cheaper. :}

 

Teke the rad. Outside and run hot water through it for a few minutes so you get all the oil and buildup out.

When I clean the coolant passages in the motor, I do it this way.

-First remove the thermostat so all the passages are open and can accept water. Put the housing and upper rad pipe back on the motor, and take it outside.

-Make sure both rad hoses are on, but not connected to the rad itself. Let warm water run through the motor for a while. Water will come out the bottom hose, so be mindful of where your standing, and where you put the car when you do this step. I usually do it outside in the driveway.

-Do not use any type of chemicals as they could ruin rubber gaskets.

-This is done AFTER the head is back on.

 

go with the factory headgasket....in my opinion it is the cheapest and best one

 

thx. from what ive read stock head gasket is the way to go.


thanks for the advice. I also wanted to know, how to clean the contaminated oil in the block?

 

back up. still trying to figure out how to clean contaminated oil from block and oil passage ways. Do I need to drop the pan or can i get by with a couple of flushes? any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Use OEM headgasket.

 

drop the oil pan, i did this when i blew my headgasket. i filled the oil pan with simple green, let it sit then washed it away and dried it out best i could then re-attached the oil pan. simplest way IMO.

if u need help dude lemme know i can stop by!

 

will be using OEm headgasket. just need to figure out what to do about the contaminated oil in the block. are the rod bearings ok?

 

Things should be fine, just be careful, I blew my head gasket then after it was all done blew my motor 1000 miles after, clean and double check everything. I broke a rod. in half, who really knows but I bet the HG was the first start and it would have been cheaper to get everything cleaned and uninstalled and such than now having a second block and what. PM me with any questions.

 

did you do clean the internal at all while the oil pan was out? did you have milky oil after you blew headgasket? will certainly take you up on your offer to help I get I get stuck on something.

Chris

 

i removed the engine and had a machine shop clean it up. i dont remember how the coolant ports run.