All I can find around here is 10w30 High mileage Mobil 1 ... I don't know what the hell is up with that ...

Plus I'm interested in what SHOULD be run in a built engine anyway.

Maybe Mobil isn't the answer??!?

 

I get so much mixed review on oils that I think I am just going to try Mobil 1, AMSOIL, Redline, Motul and Lucas all in a 15w-50 and see if the engine likes one over the other. There are so many people running different oils, its almost like it doesn't matter, as long as it is high quality.

 

OP are those stock clearance cosworth bearings? If so I am running the same ones.

 

They were for about 1000 miles, until I threw a rod bearing. lol

I'm now putting in Clevite Rod bearings and ACL main.

I've also been suggested 5w40 instead of 15w50 ... which would work better in the cold? 5w40 is thinner, correct?

 

Bump!

 

old school is break her in with some valvoline blue = 'non-detergent" oil.....i used to use 40wt....run this for ~200-300 miles, drain it, stick in your prefered oil..

 

Another GREAT oil is Brad Penn Racing Oil, I have used it in a couple applications and it is been the best oil I have run to date imo. It also carries a higher level of ZDDP without needing any additives.

 

I use Amsoil 10w-40, 20w-50, 10w-30 depending on weather conditions...
They are costly though

 

Great, thanks guys! ... AMSOil seems to be the common factor in built engines.

Last bump ... anyone else?

 

I went to a valvoline oil class about 6 months ago and what i took from there is the first number is the viscosity of the oil cold 10W<<<stands for winter and the 30 stands for the viscosity when the oil is at running temperture. Race oils have different additives in them depending on use. If you are running a daily driver or even a mild track use car there shouldnt be any reason to change viscosity. I wouldnt ever suggest going with 5w because that will be too low of a viscosity to lubricate the turbo properly at cold start conditions. I would only go with a higher viscosity (10W-40) if you are driving in hotter tempertures than 90 degrees constantly. I would say stick with mobil 1 FULL synthetic 10W-30. The high mileage oil im not too crazy about it has additives that "recondition" any rubber seals in the motor. The problem is this recondtioning causes the seals to swell to try and prevent oil leakage adventually the swelling can actually cause it leak due to too much swelling. So just stick with full synthetic mobil 1 the molecules in full sythetic are designed to stack on top of eachother when the motor is turned on wich allows the motor to have oil in the top end and the turbo when you start it back up, regular oil will all drain to the oil pan and cause a mild drystart until the oil pump catches up. hope this helps.
Mike

 

Uh Oh, I have 2k on mine so I hope I am ok. I can't afford to build this engine again.

I don't run my car in the winter anymore, so I will prob go with the 15w-50 and switch it out if I plan to run in colder temps.

 

I use ONLY valvoline Racing 20w50 and its been great. Good luck

S

 

Why did your built motor throw a rod?

 

Thank you for the answers! Perfect information ... I'll take all of this and run with it.

What actually happened was the motor spun a rod bearing. Two weeks prior it melted a piston and looks like it must have done some damage to the crank. The crank was un-balanced (would be my best guess) I received a bad vibration when logging the car, and it destroyed the rod bearings and heat-seized the crank as well. It was either fault of the crank, or installation error concerning the rod bearings.

 

No, he threw a rod bearing I think he spun a bearing