drop in pistons and rods!
same thing can be said about built blocks, and even stock blocks. a built motor is not invincible. i've seen motors from big name shops fail in as little as one day after they dynoed it and gave the car back. with time and care, drop ins will work very well. buschur and most other big shops sell drop in piston kits because they know it works. is it as good as a complete build? no, but its certainly stronger then the stock parts which is the goal.
same thing can be said about built blocks, and even stock blocks. a built motor is not invincible. i've seen motors from big name shops fail in as little as one day after they dynoed it and gave the car back. with time and care, drop ins will work very well. buschur and most other big shops sell drop in piston kits because they know it works. is it as good as a complete build? no, but its certainly stronger then the stock parts which is the goal.
!
I know ttp has said they have something, and I know buschur does it, although I don't know if buschur will sell the kits (it might be an in house thing only). You'll have to just call around
Essentially a kit should have rods (should come with rod bolts)
Pistons (will have rings and wrist pins), rings will have to be sized
Head studs
Head gasket
Rod bearings. The rod bearings will need to be sized though, so orderin one size might not be right. You need to measure the crank to know for sure
Turbo drain gasket will be needed
Oil pan sealant
Oil pickup gasket
Essentially a kit should have rods (should come with rod bolts)
Pistons (will have rings and wrist pins), rings will have to be sized
Head studs
Head gasket
Rod bearings. The rod bearings will need to be sized though, so orderin one size might not be right. You need to measure the crank to know for sure
Turbo drain gasket will be needed
Oil pan sealant
Oil pickup gasket
I know ttp has said they have something, and I know buschur does it, although I don't know if buschur will sell the kits (it might be an in house thing only). You'll have to just call around
Essentially a kit should have rods (should come with rod bolts)
Pistons (will have rings and wrist pins), rings will have to be sized
Head studs
Head gasket
Rod bearings. The rod bearings will need to be sized though, so orderin one size might not be right. You need to measure the crank to know for sure
Turbo drain gasket will be needed
Oil pan sealant
Oil pickup gasket
Essentially a kit should have rods (should come with rod bolts)
Pistons (will have rings and wrist pins), rings will have to be sized
Head studs
Head gasket
Rod bearings. The rod bearings will need to be sized though, so orderin one size might not be right. You need to measure the crank to know for sure
Turbo drain gasket will be needed
Oil pan sealant
Oil pickup gasket
I suggest you read the thread about drop-in pistons/rods about a year ago.
It was very informative and a good read.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-question.html
It was very informative and a good read.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-question.html
There really is not an efficient way to get honing angles perfect as well as piston to wall clearances correct with a drop in build. For standard bore applications used in lower boost applications you may be able to get by.
Our philosophy is measure twice and cut once. Our reputation is too valuable to damage on a drop in piston install where tolerances are less than perfect.
From line boring to, clearancing cylinder to wall measurements, pin fitment and clearancing, keeping the crank clean from contamination of honing particles, getting the hone angle correct, keeping the bore cylindric in shape, there is just too much on the line if you want a reliable, long term build to work.
Our suggestion is to have the block precision machined for the exact pistons and rods you are using and provide them to the machinist for exact measurement and clearancing.
Our philosophy is measure twice and cut once. Our reputation is too valuable to damage on a drop in piston install where tolerances are less than perfect.
From line boring to, clearancing cylinder to wall measurements, pin fitment and clearancing, keeping the crank clean from contamination of honing particles, getting the hone angle correct, keeping the bore cylindric in shape, there is just too much on the line if you want a reliable, long term build to work.
Our suggestion is to have the block precision machined for the exact pistons and rods you are using and provide them to the machinist for exact measurement and clearancing.
ttp, question, why the change in heart? have you guys seen long term results that aren't as ideal as expected? a drop in go bad? the post here is very different from the one linked above, and i'm interested to hear why you changed opinions on this. thanks guys!
There really is not an efficient way to get honing angles perfect as well as piston to wall clearances correct with a drop in build. For standard bore applications used in lower boost applications you may be able to get by.
Our philosophy is measure twice and cut once. Our reputation is too valuable to damage on a drop in piston install where tolerances are less than perfect.
From line boring to, clearancing cylinder to wall measurements, pin fitment and clearancing, keeping the crank clean from contamination of honing particles, getting the hone angle correct, keeping the bore cylindric in shape, there is just too much on the line if you want a reliable, long term build to work.
Our suggestion is to have the block precision machined for the exact pistons and rods you are using and provide them to the machinist for exact measurement and clearancing.
Our philosophy is measure twice and cut once. Our reputation is too valuable to damage on a drop in piston install where tolerances are less than perfect.
From line boring to, clearancing cylinder to wall measurements, pin fitment and clearancing, keeping the crank clean from contamination of honing particles, getting the hone angle correct, keeping the bore cylindric in shape, there is just too much on the line if you want a reliable, long term build to work.
Our suggestion is to have the block precision machined for the exact pistons and rods you are using and provide them to the machinist for exact measurement and clearancing.
One's personal natural progression to consistently improve performance will eventually reach the point where more precision measurement and machining will be necessary.
Modifying Evo's has a modification snowball effect that is difficult to stop, once in motion.
For those with a lower HP goal and the dicipline to stop at a certain point. The drop in piston combination is a cheap alternative. You have to pay to play can be inserted here however.
Best results will always be had with the half million dollars worth of precision machines, precisely setting the tolerances however.
Modifying Evo's has a modification snowball effect that is difficult to stop, once in motion.
For those with a lower HP goal and the dicipline to stop at a certain point. The drop in piston combination is a cheap alternative. You have to pay to play can be inserted here however.
Best results will always be had with the half million dollars worth of precision machines, precisely setting the tolerances however.
Last edited by TTP Engineering; Mar 24, 2009 at 08:15 AM.