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For those with the 272 cams

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Old Oct 3, 2003, 08:46 AM
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For those with the 272 cams

I want the 272 cams real bad, but for those of you that have them, do you have idleing trouble at all? how does it run now? Im really concerned on how it runs from 0-60, so what cams should i get 264s or 272s? also consider a normal idle to where it wont stall. its a daily driver any advice is appreciated
Old Oct 3, 2003, 01:15 PM
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A/F ratio will hunt a lot on stock ECU (12:1~16:1) with 272's. The rpms will occaisionally go above and rarely go a bit below the target idle rpm. It depends on what you consider driveable. If you nail it just right, you could feasibly make it easier for the car to stall by turning sharp right as you let off the gas, etc. Overall I think it's nothing near undriveable; just a bit noticeable. If you are sticking with stock turbo, get 264/264. Otherwise, consider 272/272.
Old Oct 3, 2003, 01:24 PM
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What would be the problem if I did get 272's? I got a real good deal on them so I bought them. I have no plans in the future to change turbos but will take the step to make 272's work. WHAT DO i NEED TO DO!!!
Old Oct 3, 2003, 01:28 PM
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To do what? On stock ECU, you just deal with it, I guess. It's not going to really be a problem; just something you notice.
Old Oct 3, 2003, 01:34 PM
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OOPs sorry about the caps. Well I just ordered an E-Manage to go along witht the cams and injectors. Will this be sufficent(misspelled?)???
Old Oct 3, 2003, 01:47 PM
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Some friendly advice - this topic has been covered many times, even as recent as a few days ago; a search would net you some good results.

I am running HKS 272's as a daily driver, and I am happy with them. I bought adjustable cam gears - BUT YOU DON'T NEED THEM. Don't let any vendor convince you that you need them for a good idle. I pull almost stock vacume, and my idle seeks around maybe 100rpm - on the stock cam gear timing.

For awhile, I was using the eManage anti-engine stall to keep my car iding when I had a vaume leak. I rerouted my vacume lines and reloacted my Profec B boost controller, then shut of the anti-engine stall (which makes it idle too high for my tastes). I have a rock solid idle of ~850rpm now. You will hear the loping at idle due the the cam profile, but it will idle perfectly.

EDITED to add:

Don't forget to put in your ARP head studs at the same time you do the cam swap - the stock head bolts have already failed on several others; two resulting in lost engines.

Bigger injectors and fuel pump will probably be necessary if the weather his changing where you are. I'm pulling in so much air I'm getting MAF overrun and hitting fuel cut a lot. I've ordered my injectors and fuel pump, but right now I have to run at 1.2bar to keep from hitting cut.

Have fun modding!
Old Oct 3, 2003, 02:04 PM
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I don't think you are running out of fuel; just hitting cut from MAF reading. You would need bigger injectors to reduce the MAF reading to the ECU compensate and also flow more air before hitting the cut. An FPR may get you the same thing.
BTW, you didn't see me recommend costly parts, did you?
Old Oct 3, 2003, 02:20 PM
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So if I upgrade to 720cc injectors I won't have to worry about the cut? How do I get ride of the MAF all together? Someone said get the boost sensor with the e-manage and that will eliminate the MAF. Is this true?
Old Oct 3, 2003, 02:56 PM
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I don't think that's going to cut it (the boost sensor). Just wait for the EMS in that case.
Old Oct 3, 2003, 02:57 PM
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Avatar just curious where did you relocate your boost controller?
Old Oct 3, 2003, 03:04 PM
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Everyone seems to be changing injectors and fuel pumps when they start getting above 280hp point with cams (to keep from hitting fuel cut?). All of these people alse seem to be in the NorthEast where it is getting really cold.

Since I am in SoCal and even in the dead of winter The coldest weather I might see is 50°F even at the track do I need to to worry about injectors and fuel pump before changing the turbo?
Old Oct 3, 2003, 10:55 PM
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Originally posted by Pli
Avatar just curious where did you relocate your boost controller?
Originally, it was mounted way over on the front drivers side of the engine bay, near the intake. I relocated it closer to the vacume lines (near the valve cover). I'll update the pics on my website sometime soon.
Old Oct 3, 2003, 10:56 PM
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Originally posted by blurr
Everyone seems to be changing injectors and fuel pumps when they start getting above 280hp point with cams (to keep from hitting fuel cut?). All of these people alse seem to be in the NorthEast where it is getting really cold.

Since I am in SoCal and even in the dead of winter The coldest weather I might see is 50°F even at the track do I need to to worry about injectors and fuel pump before changing the turbo?
I was getting fuel cut at 60 degrees. I think it's just a symptom you're going to run into if you go with bigger cams.
Old Oct 4, 2003, 07:30 AM
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The only way you wont hit boost or fuel cut ( im not sure yet what it is, i will find out) is to clamp the voltage from the MAF to the stock ecu. This has to be done with a piggyback or standalone in parallel. I just got mine and will be fooling with it soon. I'll post any info i have when i am done.
Old Oct 4, 2003, 07:59 AM
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Or get a power FC and delete the MAF altogether


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