Does Tilton have a carbon/carbon clutch for these cars? Guarantee you it'll be the best clutch and longest lasting clutch you can buy. Also the most expensive, but you know how that goes...

 

they do but it is one of the most expensive clutches for our evos its like 4,000 if i remember correctly!

 

I know it's expensive, but at some point it's worth it.

After going through (2) 5.5" Quartermaster carbon clutches in my car, I finally put the Tilton on it and never looked back.

How many times do you have to service a metallic twin before the carbon is worth the price? Not to mention it's MUCH easier on the drivetrain.

 

I have been driving with my spec clutch for about 200 miles, the shifting is crisp, there is no noise, and I do not see where these problems are that require a bigger MC. In my case, it was easy to bleed and there is more than enough throw with the master cylinder ( it is not extended all the way out , maybe 5 thread turns left) .

IMO, driving it on the street is perfect so far, no chatter or clatter... just smooth crisp engagement. It does require a little more revs to get it moving , but then again, it might not be broken in completely, for the money and the benefit of removing that useless pull type... spec is a winner in my book.

 

Are you saying the carbon/carbon clutch plates last longer then the metallics??

 

How the subject clutches would feel about no-lift-shifts at 9000rpm? That's my question and that's how I decided to go with the quartermaster twin. Plus would they hold a 600+++ awhp car on racegas?

The exedy twin would defintely fail both tests and only the triple disc would be able to hold the power and shifting if it's converted to push style, so we are talking 4000 dollars... The Spec I cannot comment on...

Even a well known tranny builder told me that if we are talking twins that hold there is only one, tilton carbon carbon...

 

The carbon disks last much longer than metallic disks. They also take a ton more heat and rather than slipping when they get hot, they grip better. You just can't beat a carbon/carbon clutch. Engagement is smooth as can be too.

NOT to be confused with clutches with carbon drive disks and steel floaters. It has to be carbon on carbon to work well and retain all the benefits.

 

no doubt, that in a RACE ONLY situation you would want a carbon disc, but 95% of the population on this board, have cars that are being used in both situations..Daily driving and occasional track duty. Justifying 3k + on a carbon/triple style disc, is something that most people would have a hard time swallowing, especially when you would have to replace it after 6 thousand odd miles( speculating).

 

Dunno, harder for me to swallow multiple clutch rebuilds and tranny R&R's. Not to mention if it saves you any driveline parts along the way. The smooth engagement of the carbon clutch is easy on driveline parts and a nice change of pace for a high hp street car. No bull****, the Tilton carbon in my race car engages like a stock clutch.

As far as replacing a carbon clutch in 6k miles, that's clearly speculation and is incorrect. The carbon clutch will last longer than any metallic clutch. I have Supra customers that have gone 10k miles on them and checked them and hardly see any wear. When it does wear, it comes with 2 additional pressure plates to reset the stack height w/o rebuilding. You will get a lot of time on a Tilton carbon/carbon.

 

^ point taken, I am not arguing the fact that carbon is better or not. As a consumer, that has taken his DD a little furthur than it needs to be, spending that much money on a clutch is crazy ( to me at least) . Hell the ACT single disc that was in my car lasted 70k, sure it locked out towards the end of its life, but for 69 odd K that it was alive, it was manageable to me..

Will the spec twin that is in the car currently last 70k ? I highly doubt it.

 

drive it for a little while longer. Mine drove fine with a 2k break in and once i brought it up to 7k the clutch is notchy now and the shifting is soo off. Feels like spline or something is bent. It literally feels like a civic now.

 

I went with the Exedy twin for the lesser expensive cost of the rebuild kit, and the reliability I had heard from the posts here and from friends. Once installed, it was a little noisy when the pedal was pushed in, and on some decels, but now after 1000 miles, the decel noise has gone away and after the cam install you can barely hear the noise with the pedal in over the exhaust in my car. The noise is totally tolerable, and I hate hearing odd noises coming from the engine. I have heard stories of the installs going wrong and the noises being more prevalent, but I took mine into the local dealer to get done and it has not disappointed. Grips like a beast, no slipping whatsoever, no lockout issues even at very high RPMs.

 

Honestly, between the two, i just want the performance and longevity, i dont care about how it sounds or if the peddle is too hard. Exedy seems to be winning right now, since i do road course a lot.
I read this on another thread about the Exedy -
"If you do get the Exedy, make sure you get something (either extra springs or a clutch fork stopper) to prevent it from popping the retainer clip out."
What is he referring to?

 

SPEC Twin P-trim here, have had no issues here... TedB was not lying when comparing to the Quarter master or Tilton, these chatter like a beat up voltswagen!