My FP Black
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
BINGO AS STATED ON THE PHONE 2.4 AND YOUR DONE. you can only drag for so long dding and autox etc all the time and cheaper most of the time LOL. I can help you get the extra parts needed for the 2.4 as i have already done this before LOL. this could be you
if you need help just ask i offered to help you out and we talked for alittle bit. I can find some sweet deals and get you into a motor I have sent you some good stuff already but you need to have the cash ready to get this going. JMS could build you a JMS 2.4 to the specs we talked about cheaper if you buy all parts and just pay labor from putting it together. you have my number you can call now
if you need help just ask i offered to help you out and we talked for alittle bit. I can find some sweet deals and get you into a motor I have sent you some good stuff already but you need to have the cash ready to get this going. JMS could build you a JMS 2.4 to the specs we talked about cheaper if you buy all parts and just pay labor from putting it together. you have my number you can call now
I appreciate the help and support 
I will be in touch when I have more $ saved up !
-Bink
hey boss since you want to drop off the face of the planet i found you a personal steal deal for a brand new built 2.4 motor like mines. I would steal have it checked out of course but you could send it my way to JMS and they could fully inspect it before sending it off to you if you like. Put it this way its around what i paid for mine and its tapped for mivec feed line. can be capped off of course
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,430
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From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
hey boss since you want to drop off the face of the planet i found you a personal steal deal for a brand new built 2.4 motor like mines. I would steal have it checked out of course but you could send it my way to JMS and they could fully inspect it before sending it off to you if you like. Put it this way its around what i paid for mine and its tapped for mivec feed line. can be capped off of course
I haven't dropped off the face of the planet - I've just had nothing to report or post up new in this thread...yet.
I've been saving $$ and been going over different plans and making spreadsheets for the build. I've been calling different shops to get different ideas, opinions and quotes.
I'm still weeding through everything.
I appreciate you constantly looking out for motors for me
It's always nice to know someone has my back! What's the price of this motor?-Bink
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iTrader: (11)
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From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
I'll tell you one thing...with all of the options available....I finally know what I want in the motor / head.
Engine:
Manley I-Beam Connecting Rods
Wiseco 1400HD Pistons
ACL Race Series Main Bearings
ACL Race Series Rod Bearings
OEM Mitsubishi Oil Pan (mines rusted, was going to opt for AMS's wet sump system but heard their oil pan made by Moroso has fitment issues)
ARP 'L19' Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
4G63 ARP Balancer Bolt Kit
OEM Oil Pump Front Case w/ Gasket
Head:
Supertech Valve Stem Seals
Supertech Exhaust Valve Guides
Supertech Intake Valve Guides
Kiggly Racing Beehive Valve Spring Set
Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves
Supertech Black Nitride Intake Valves
Ferrea Valve Locks
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears
Mitsubishi OEM Metal / MLS Head Gasket
Other Parts:
FP High Pressure Wastegate Actuator
Grimmspeed 3-port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid
OmniPower 4 Bar MAP Sensor
MAP Oil Cooler Kit with Setrab 25 Row Oil Cooler
Full Blown Dual Pump Hanger / -8AN feed and -6AN return
AMS F1-I Intake Manifold (or MAP Rev 2 or 3 IM)
Possibly (if the funds are there) Shep Trans Stage 3 transfer case
Tune:
STM Dyno tune - Need to see if Emery can or will tune ECU Controlled boost
I am still on the fence about 2.0 vs 2.4. I keep going back to wanting a 2.0 so I can rev higher than 8000 RPM.
Thoughts?
-Bink
Engine:
Manley I-Beam Connecting Rods
Wiseco 1400HD Pistons
ACL Race Series Main Bearings
ACL Race Series Rod Bearings
OEM Mitsubishi Oil Pan (mines rusted, was going to opt for AMS's wet sump system but heard their oil pan made by Moroso has fitment issues)
ARP 'L19' Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
4G63 ARP Balancer Bolt Kit
OEM Oil Pump Front Case w/ Gasket
Head:
Supertech Valve Stem Seals
Supertech Exhaust Valve Guides
Supertech Intake Valve Guides
Kiggly Racing Beehive Valve Spring Set
Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves
Supertech Black Nitride Intake Valves
Ferrea Valve Locks
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears
Mitsubishi OEM Metal / MLS Head Gasket
Other Parts:
FP High Pressure Wastegate Actuator
Grimmspeed 3-port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid
OmniPower 4 Bar MAP Sensor
MAP Oil Cooler Kit with Setrab 25 Row Oil Cooler
Full Blown Dual Pump Hanger / -8AN feed and -6AN return
AMS F1-I Intake Manifold (or MAP Rev 2 or 3 IM)
Possibly (if the funds are there) Shep Trans Stage 3 transfer case
Tune:
STM Dyno tune - Need to see if Emery can or will tune ECU Controlled boost
I am still on the fence about 2.0 vs 2.4. I keep going back to wanting a 2.0 so I can rev higher than 8000 RPM.
Thoughts?
-Bink
Revving like a motorcycle engine sounds cool but I say 2.4L. More readily available power and torque. No question for a street car in my opinion. Lag is no fun.
Thread Starter
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From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
There is a new thread about someone deciding between a 2.0 and 2.4 for their Evo and Mike @ AWD said that with a stock 4G64 crank that is a bad idea to Rev above 8,000 RPM and MAP responded saying the same thing.
They both agreed 8,000 RPM is a good, safe, limit for the 2.4L (with regard to longevity).
-Bink
Last edited by binky; Sep 10, 2010 at 01:11 PM.
On mine, I'm going to be running almost the exact same setup as you have listed. I will be setting my rev limiter for the street around 8200. Unless the power curve on the black shows more potential up top, I don't believe there is a reason to run any more than that.
As far as your choice for the valve guides and new valves, what's the reasoning behind that? If this is going to be a street car, the stock guide and valves will do just fine.
-Acree
As far as your choice for the valve guides and new valves, what's the reasoning behind that? If this is going to be a street car, the stock guide and valves will do just fine.
-Acree
On mine, I'm going to be running almost the exact same setup as you have listed. I will be setting my rev limiter for the street around 8200. Unless the power curve on the black shows more potential up top, I don't believe there is a reason to run any more than that.
-Acree
-Acree
For the street thats fine but if you are drag racing you will run out of 4th gear before or right at the traps at 8200. I have that problem now
setting mine between 8000-8500 I don't see why not to but I agree we don't need to rev as high we will make that power sooner and quicker anywho just get the 2.4 you can't go wrong
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 1
From: Connecticut / Massachusetts U.S.A
On mine, I'm going to be running almost the exact same setup as you have listed. I will be setting my rev limiter for the street around 8200. Unless the power curve on the black shows more potential up top, I don't believe there is a reason to run any more than that.
As far as your choice for the valve guides and new valves, what's the reasoning behind that? If this is going to be a street car, the stock guide and valves will do just fine.
-Acree
As far as your choice for the valve guides and new valves, what's the reasoning behind that? If this is going to be a street car, the stock guide and valves will do just fine.
-Acree
-Bink
