EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

I was able to do some testing yesterday and it appears the rear toe in alignment resolved the massive oversteer condition I previously had. Thank god!

I marked my toe bolts before the alignment and now after so my plan is to adjust the toe slightly to dial in the oversteer that I am comfortable with.

As for ride height changes, I haven't made any yet. I will review threads about rake as well as that may allow me to get back to zero toe at all four corners because I'd rather adjust ride height than scrub my tires!

Thanks to everyone on this thread for all the help!

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

One more question for those of you with the diff..... are you at zero toe rear?

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

I'm curious as to the before and after rear toe values. Must have been a lot of toe-out.

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

The toe values were in that alignment sheet I posted: http://thumbsnap.com/f/srs5YaEU

Like I said I'm not an alignment guru so I can't tell you if what was add is alot or a little but it definitely fixed the issue I had. (Keep in mind some camber was added as well)

I should add I did make one other change which was recommended by Jon (TRE) and that was adding a bottle of Redline friction modifier to the rear diff. I completely flushed the rear diff and put in fresh DQ with FM. Could that have helped as well... maybe.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

Wow. Your new rear toe is roughly 0.25". That is quite a bit of toe. Expect your rear tires to wear out somewhat faster. I guess I'd wonder if the friction modifier didn't cause a good fraction of the change in behavior.

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

I can easily go back to the previous rear toe specs to test. This is a fair weather short trip and track duty only car so tire wear is the least of my worries. If the alignment and rear diff make the car quicker then I am willing to deal with the scrubbing!

codgi

iTrader: (22)

If the rebuilt diff causes the car to rotate better...with the same driving style and other mods if you needed toe in on the OEM diff you'd need more toe in with the correctly rebuilt diff not less. That and a few I know who have done it went from zero toe before to some toe in after the mod.

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. I'm trying to get a feel for what most other are running for toe on with this diff. Mostly because I suspect others will encounter the same snap oversteer condition that I did. If there is a "try this" list it may save them a few trips to the alignement rack. I'm on my third alignment since install which has been a bit of a PITA.

1. Run thicker oil (OEM diaqueen is recommended)
2. Add Redline Friction Modifier (1 bottle)
3. Don't overfill the rear diff. It should be half way up the sight glass.
4. Ensure you have a neutral rake (fender height in the rear should be 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the front)
5. Reduce tire pressure in the rear
6. Reduce spring rate in the rear
7. Run more camber
8. Run more toe in the rear (+1/8" or +.29*)

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

My car runs zero toe in the rear. Mostly because it's out of adjustment. I would like to try a bit of toe in if I ever get aftermarket toe arms, see if it lets me go full throttle sooner. Just not up for spending the money yet.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

i run actually a small amount of toe out, to help with rotation on power. but obviously my setup is different

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

Adding toe in, in the rear settles down a tail happy car. But you also negated most of the effect of doing the rear diff and increased tire wear in the process.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

That would be a ridiculous amount of toe.

codgi

iTrader: (22)

Or a lot of mileage. I ran mild toe on the VIII when it was still a daily driver for 4 years. That car saw about 10k miles a year including track time and it continued to age out the rubber before any tread/wear issues.

Maybe it makes a huge difference with very exotic rubber. But at that price point even as a DD you should be tracking on the baller rubber and switching to cheaper street tires the rest of the time.

Edit Have had this car way too long..updating the years with that config

kaj

iTrader: (60)

That's what I'd expect. I wouldn't take tire wear into considering when deciding on toe in/out.

drive955i

iTrader: (6)

I hate the rear toe adjustment. It's as though the engineers decided to only allow half the possible available adjustment range.
I run zero toe, or a little toe out for track use. I don't Auto-x, though, so low speed throttle-on oversteer is less of a concern. Plus, I don't make a lot of power, either, so I can run more "aggressive" suspension set-ups since I'm not contending with severe on-boost fits of rage through the tires. I have the Max-Lock TRE rear diff. And I use Redline 80w-140NS with no modifier.