what exactly was your car doing with the EGR vacuum leak.

 

If I loaded the engine up off idle for a little to move the car a little like in traffic it would die or almost die after I let off the gas and pushed the clutch in. Im assuming the engine wasnt able to see the full vacuum signal.

 

check the egr valve mine was clogged with carbon and it would constantly stall mine was dirty so i got a new one from mitsubishi for $65 i think my problem is in my tune though..good luck

 

I checked the IAC today and it seemed fine from what I could see. It moved a good 1/4" or close to it when turning the key over... Another thing I realized is that it looks like the way my problem would "come and go" was actually just dependant on my radiator fan. I sat in my car and let it idle for a while and when the radiator fan is running is when the idle is bad.. So everything I see so far is for me it is an electrical problem... Just now I need to figure out what that problem is..But who knows, it could still be something else.

 

I'm not getting a battery light so I suspect I'm making voltage, but it seems like my amperage is low.. Something is putting a load in my electrical system, but what would be common to allmost any accesory in my car (radiator fan, heating/AC systems, electric windows..etc)?.. I'll get my multimeter on it today if I get a chance.

 

update:

My problem has evolved. I raised my target idle to about 1,000rpm.. It idles better now (not much), and I dont have problems with it dying coasting into stop lights... but, it still shoots to 1k then drops and stays at 500ish rpm when I start my car. It sits around that for a bit and is lean on my wideband (18-19ish).. after a couple secs it will get back up around 1,000rpm but still be lean for a minute or two until it gets a normal (all-be-it still kinda rough) idle. I also noticed that my vacuum seems a little low, I can't remember what it normally was, but its like 12-13 at idle right now, and memory seems to suggest it used to be 15-18... I'm gonna do a boost leak and vacuum test tomorrow if I have time.. I also had my battery/starter/alternator checked out.. I'm making good voltage and the alternator and starter passed good, but the battery was showing to be putting out lower amperage than it probably should. I understand that it should make atleast 400 and it was making like 200... the big fancy tester at the shop also said it was getting some kind of "electrical interference" as well... I was thinking it was seeing some kind of load on the system.. maybe a short or bad ground or something..


NOW...the new problem.. when I put my car under load, especially in boost, it goes a tad leaner (16ish) instead of going rich (normally 10-11.5 depending) and feels very very weak and sluggish, this was the same day I was tuning around on my Forge DV to try and get rid of some of the compression surge I was getting.. I have since repeatedly moved the setting on the DV around an dit has made NO DIFFERENCE. I am still getting boost.. I pulled my fuel pump today and checked it out and it seems fine. I can hear it running with the seat removed, and it jetted strong when I put it straight to the battery. I tried swapping my MAF with another guy's and it didnt change anything....

Is it possible that my diverter valve is causing my problems, or atleast the newer problem? I have heard people say certain BoV's can cause problems with stalling and bad idles, especially without an idle stabilizer (which i dont have) and even more so vented to atmosphere (which mine is not, its recirculated).


This is stressing me out bad... I'm getting rides to and from work right now and this problem is wracking my mind...

 

I had some what of the same problem.. You might want to really check out the iac out. Even if it looks good it might be getting lazy and not raising your idle fast enough when load is put to the engine. When I checked mine out it looked good so I ended up changing the maf out but it turned out to a lazy iac. Swap the iac for a new one and car runs like new.

 

I have this problem to... not the stalling but the loose rattling noise when clutch is depressed and in neutral.

 

jeez dont go in boost if your A/F ratios are in 16. thats BAD.

 

I don't even drive it right now while I'm trying to figure this out. Except to test drive and troubleshoot.

 

Cruza, were you having both the same problems or just the idle problem with starting up and coasting into a stop light or sign?

 

Mine would start kinda rough, rpm would slowly pick up until the fan would come on and put load onto the engine than the rpm would drop to like 500. I could drive it around but like you say when the engine has load and I come to stop, it dies but when there is no load I could drive and stop without dying out but rpm would still drop to around 500. Also when I drive and I put it in neutral to coast it would die when it had something on like the fan or doing any type of hard braking causing load on the engine. As for the loose rattling noise, I bought the car used and kinda notice the rattling noise from the begining and automatically thought the clutch but it didnt cause the stalling it was the lazy iac not compensating for the load on the engine.

 

Sounds like crank walk to me me. have someone push the clutch in while you watch closely to see if the crank pulley is moving. It may be hard to notice because the act is a pull style clutch, you could take the passenger wheel off and depress the tensioner on the serp belt, then feel how far you can wiggle the crank in and out of the block. I hope its not man but I would put money on this is your issue.

 

Garrett,

check the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator.

 

I hope that is a joke......

EVOS DO NOT CRANK WALK AND EVOS HAVE PULL STYLE CLUTCHES unless you buy the AMS push style clutch upgrade kit.

your money is mine