So with my block back from the shop, and all other components procured, with the exception of the ams balance shaft elim, and head gasket, the time for re assembly has come.

This is my first build and there are a few questions still have. for example, are the torque specs for my arp main studs different from those of the factory bolts?

Also, im sure that ill have alot of other questions as i get further into the assembly so maybe someone could direct me to a very well detailed guide. I have the engine overhaul manual from on demand 5, but I figure any advice/instruction i can get would help me greatly.

thanks in advance evo-m you always come through for me.

 

oh! and what should be my endgap on the piston rings? prob gonna be somewhere around 35psi.

 

I called arp today, and they said to just hand tighten the studs, "snug" the bolts to about 5ftlbs, and then go strait to 60ftlbs. Every book/manual/teacher I’ve ever consulted says to go in stages. ex- for a 60ftlb spec bolt youd go to 25ftlbs for each one in the sequence, then maybe 45ftlbs, and then to 60 (not necessarily those numbers). Does going right to 60ftlbs really sound appropriate?

 

no takers?

 

I want to buy a FP Green turbine.Can i put it with the manual(evo 9-stock) injectors?

 

If i install it i must to do re-map the engine?

 

With the turbine i must to buy and new intercooler or not?

 

Yes, you should upgrade your intercooler, you will probably exceed the appropriate duty cycle of the stock injectors so you should change those, and you wil DEFINETLY need to "remap" or retune your ecu. Also, this is not the appropriate thread for these questions.

 

There is a piece of paper inside the ARP stud box that says the recommended torque rating. I installed all the studs hand tight, covered the threads on the studs and the threads in the nuts with the ARP MOLY lube, torqued all of them in proper sequence to 45ft lbs and then again in sequence to 70ft lbs. I think 65 is what ARP suggests, im running 70 and im fine. After I did the basic 20 minute break in on the engine I removed the valve cover and re-torqued them to 70. The initial heat cycle just barely loosened them.

 

oh, sorry i wasnt specific enough, I was particularly interested in the specs on the arp 2000 main studs, But this information will come in handy when im up to that part- so thanks for the input. How long has the motor been running after this? and what psi are you running? Just out of curiosity.

Thanks again

 

bump!!

 

Make sure you pack that oil pump with assembly lube, especially with that AMS POS in there.

 

Why you say this?

 

hmmm? please elaborate

 

I have seen two oil pumps go that had AMS balance shaft elims in them. One was my personal car and one was a close friends. Its not that AMS peice that casues issues, its timing belt tension and install errors, but they market this piece as *better* for your pump which is totally false. Make sure the tension is setup correctly and remove the gold sprocket on the oil pump to install the new balance shaft, DO NO I repeat DO NOT remove the gear that drives the oil pump. This Thing is UBER tight and the only way to stop it from spinning is to use the balance shaft, doing it this way puts an extreme side load on the drive gear inside the oil pump causing it to gaul into the front case.

Slighlty above and to the right of the timing belt pulley on the front cover you will notice a gold sprocket/cap remove that to access the bolt holding the driven gear of the oil pump to the balance shaft. Once the install is done fill the oil pump with assembly lube.

I would personally recomend the stubby shaft.